C-Forum

Do some folks start making boats from a mold or plug without the correct rights for sale? Absolutely. Others may make a small tweak to the design and call it their own. Might be legal in some cases, but doesn't make it right. I've found so far that asking has meant some great conversations with som...

Yes...surly.

The paddle will be at the Winni NESS race this weekend.

Roy

3M medium-size carbon blade. Extra-heavy carbon/Kevlar shaft. Wood grip is off-set for right hand paddling. The heat-shrink shaft cover was removed; now, has electrical tape. Lightly used. Sorry: no shipping and I will not cut it to length for you. Nor, will I carve you a new grip. I will email pics...

Matt,

If you do pull the lines, I look forward to seeing them. I am sure you're right...the perfect slalom stern is tough to get right the first time.

Roy

Roy, On the cross sections, the first number is the slice number in the stack. Each slice is 2 1/8" thick. I would take cross sections every 8 1/2" typically, but on sections of the boat that have more curvature, I take cross sections every 4 1/4". Zero is the tip of the bow and 77 is the tip of th...

Thanks for the depth/width.

Can you explain the numbers on the cross-section diagrams?

How would you feel about someone using your lines as the basis of a somewhat-modified design? A new, large, C-1 is about #3 on my boat-building to-do list.

Roy

Looks like a super job. I just love boat building in living areas. The house where I grew up, almost certainly still has epoxy globs on the floor of the spare bedroom. My Dad went on a business trip, and...

Can you tell us the width and maximum depth of the boat?

Roy

Well, I don't represent any of the other snarky posters, but, I was side tracked by the original description: "a decent 2 peice breakdown paddle but the blade is brittle plastic that has already snapped in half." I thought no "decent" paddle could possibly have a "brittle plastic" blade. So, my sugg...

If the OP really wants a hobby, then I suggest: carve a wood blade, glass it, and glue to the shaft. Somewhat like what Mitchell does with their carbon shaft/wood blade sticks. It will, I bet, turn out such that he will never want to use it (beacuse the shaft is probably sketchy). If the OP wants th...

I'd say your from-the-outside plan seems fine. A 60 cc syringe works well for injecting all sorts of stuff. My only additional suggestings: (1) do the delam repair, let harden, then sand/prep the outside (maybe that is your plan, anyway), and (2) find something which resembles the shape of the big h...

My take is a little different. If you, or anyone else, is EVER going to fix this boat, NOW is the time to do it. If you want to just paddle it until it croaks, and then grow earth worms in it, fine...run it the way it is. But, repairing Royalex right at the time you have worn through the vynel is re...

From what I have seen, there are any number of boat models people call "Hahns." There was an 80cm Hahn, 70cm high-end Hahn, low-end Hahn, Sweet-Hahn, Morrison-Hahn, and others. The ones I have measured tended to be about 12" deep. But, comfort in a Hahn has as much to do with hull shape and cockpit ...

What it is, is the OC2 version of the Twister. Fast? Fast, relative to what? As an OC1, it would spin well, but would only be fast relative to way shorter boats. I think it would make a reasonable big-water OC1. Here are the specs: http://www.madrivercanoe.com/content/madrivercanoe.com/assets/page/a...

FWIW, Jennette and I have a Kevlar river-running C-2 which uses the Caption wetted surface. It has a high-volume deck for a depth at the stern rim of 12". It is stable, spins, and is 100% fun. Very comfortable. The boat would have come out about 6" short of current slalom length, but because we occa...