Attaching saddles to thwarts

milkman · Post by **milkman** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 5:53 pm

I've stopped gluing the seats down on PE boats ni the theory that allowing them to flex more may help prevent cracks. Mohawk used to sell metal cylinders that you could bolt to a thwart and then plant into the seat back about 6 inches to connect seat and thwart. I don't see these available anymore on their site. Does anyone know of a similar solution that I can buy online?

Paddle Power · Post by **Paddle Power** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:20 pm

You could try contacting Mohawk
CONTACT INFO

2407 LYNDON AVE.
RED BANK, TN, 37415

(877) 226-6329

INFO@MOHAWKCANOES.COM

Did the metal cylinder allow the saddle to move vertically?

NickParker · Post by **NickParker** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:25 pm

If you can't find a pre made solution, you could take a short piece of metal tubing and put in a star nut to give you the internal threads you need. Just Google "star nut" and you will find them. McMaster Carr sells them as "tube connecting nuts". They're very easy to use, and very strong.

DougB · Post by **DougB** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:30 pm

I've seen wood dowel used.

hazardharry · Post by **hazardharry** » Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:35 pm

ash broom stick.

hazardharry · Post by **hazardharry** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 12:07 am

i like to counter sink the thwart into the saddle while using ash dowels to lock it all up.

milkman · Post by **milkman** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:51 pm

Thanks for the advice. Never even knew about star nuts, but now that I've seen them, I know I've seen things using them. Dowells might be work as well, but I was trying to avoid using wood.

Todhunter · Post by **Todhunter** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:33 am

I sell all my saddles with a 6" long, 1" diameter plastic dowel for attaching the saddle to the thwarts. I also sell these dowels individually, with a stainless screw and cup washer for $7 each. I have used hardwood dowels in the past and they all end up rotting, even taking great care and sealing them up well. The problem is that the hole you cut in the saddle holds water and it doesn't fully dry out. This means the wood dowel is constantly in a moist environment, and it will eventually deteriorate, unless you are frequently re-sealing it.

ELGOTTO · Post by **ELGOTTO** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:11 pm

Todhunter do you glue the plastic dowel or just drill a hole in the foam and insert?

Einar · Post by **Einar** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 2:27 pm

I've had thwarts break from bottom pressure being transferred up thru the seat. (hitting a rock) Both wooden and metal tube have broken.

My Occoee (2nd owner) has a very definite wear pattern on the hull, right in front of the seat base glue down. The effect is not just vinyl wear, there is a definite visible "bump" in the hull.

My thoughts vary on this; if it's a 2nd hand purchase I just paddle it as is but on my next seat installation I might carry the design of the seat so that it extends further forward up to the airbags providing a more flexible and gradual transition point instead of 205 lbs on a "sharp" minifoam edge.

I have used a dowel rod thwart to mini cell system but usually leave a space/gap tween the thwart and mini cell
and just rely on the dowel to reduce side to side flex in the seat.
e

Todhunter · Post by **Todhunter** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 2:57 pm

Elgotto, I just leave the dowels unglued, or "floating". If you glue it, it will tear loose every time.

Post by **sbroam** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:43 am

I wanted the midst surface area possible, so I used vinyl downspout (about 2"square) on one boat. To fit it in, I used a steak knife to incise the square so the vinyl fit snug and I removed little/no material. I ran the cuts deep so it could travel some. I attached it to the thwart with metal L brackets. It's worked well.

C-Forum