Spark Outfitting & Saddle Positioning

mahyongg · Post by **mahyongg** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:53 pm

Hi friends of the wet & open,

I would like to hear your advice or tips on where to find some hints as to how the saddle should be positioned in an Esquif Spark. Being asymmetrical and all, I guess the usual formulas from the centerline won't work here and the "up front" paddling style of the cab forward design could have an influence as well. We have two Sparks to outfit - one that of my 55 kg SO (with gear) and mine (Slightly overweight with around 100 kg w/gear). Good thing is, my SO's saddle being a North Water Daisy-Chain mounted design we can test suggestions.
(Yes we will ommit the daisy chain system once the position is fixed, its a hassle with the footrests and the saddle always moves around a bit..).

So, my questions would be:
- Where do I position my hip bone in the Spark?
- Is there a "Sweet Spot" and why is that given the Sparks Design?
- How about differences for different weights (my saddle being equally positioned to my SO's, the Bow digs in far further.. maybe I need to go back a little more with my saddle?)

Thats that... hope anybody has an idea. Oh and glue - contact cement? Vinyl cement? Is R-84 (Royalite) any different from regular Royalex Glue-Wise or is it still PVC?

Thanks a bunch,

Jan

Craig Smerda · Post by **Craig Smerda** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:55 pm

pm this guy---> http://www.cboats.net/cforum/profile.ph ... file&u=452

yarnellboat · Post by **yarnellboat** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:59 pm

Hi Jan,

Take advantage of the movable saddle and just try it in different places until you find one you like - simple as that! If the current placement digs the bow in too much for you, just move it back a hole or 2 until you find your spot! You should be able identify placements that clearly feel too-far-back and too-far-forward, so that will ID the range of options, and within that fine-tune it to something that feels right for you.

Too bad the saddle wiggles a bit, I don't have that problem with the movable Northwater saddles in our Vertige X, in fact, I'd consider using that again in a solo boat,a s i tbeats cutting & glueing as preferences or people change. I think the trick is putting the daisy chain webbing itself right next to the saddle faom, not spreading them out any further.

Vinyl adhesive is just for the vinyl-to-vinyl stuff like anchors. To glue a saddle down use contact cement or Goop.

Cheers, Pat.

p.s. Lots of people getting into their canoes now here, and their new canoes for several of our friends, as the season's schedule has now started - lower Chilliwack on this Sunday if you guys can make it!

mahyongg · Post by **mahyongg** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:16 pm

Thanks for the saddle answers, thats generally what we're trying to do.. the daisy chains are coming loose too, so we thought we could skip re-glueing them in but will do now (and closer together) to be able to check out the positioning.

@Craig - was thinking of that option with Kaz being such a nice guy and all, but would not want to bother him since he's just building boats for a couple of people here so they'd stone me if they arrived late (if he'd be answering my questions all nite..) maybe I'll do anyways, they won't notice a little PM ;D

And Pat, yeah, Ooh, the Lower Chili.. would love to get "in" there once again (without the Salmon stink, that is ;D)...

Cheers,

Jan

Eric Nyre · Post by **Eric Nyre** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:16 pm

Trim them before bonding anything in

I've never been a fan of "formula" placement, instead I prefer to take the boat out to a lake and play around with seat placement until I find the sweet spot.

Start with the normal "back 9" from center" position and mark that with pencil/ grease marker. Paddle forward, do a 180, just get the general feel for a few minutes. Then slide the seat forward/ back, 1/2" at a time, mark those locations and compare what feels better. After 20 minutes of shifting the seat and playing, you should know your sweet spot.

Trim points change for different paddlers, different outfitting, etc. By trimming it on the water, you know it will work right.

kaz · Post by **kaz** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:25 pm

Jan,
Plop that saddle in the Spark so your back is 75" from the tip of the bow. That should do it.

JKaz

yarnellboat · Post by **yarnellboat** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:40 pm

When I've trimmed stuff on the water, I found it really helpful to float it empty first and tape some little 'string levels' to a level spot along the gunwales.

This way you don't constantly need to yell to somebody "how does it look now?", and you can immediately and objectively see how much a change in the saddle position can affect the trim of the boat.

Pat.

Craig Smerda · Post by **Craig Smerda** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:02 am

kaz wrote:Jan,
Plop that saddle in the Spark so your back is 75" from the tip of the bow. That should do it.

JKaz

Cab-forward

mahyongg · Post by **mahyongg** » Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:12 pm

Great Help Guys, thanks a lot!

Since actually we have two Sparks here, one with the NW Daisy Chained saddle, we will stick with the NW System for now and use that to find out where to put (if I have to switch it around) the saddle
in the other boat. Kaz, Ill gladly use your advice as the starting point
for my saddle ;D

Good times! Now back to breathing some more Acetone fumes.. urgh..

Jan

kaz · Post by **kaz** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:35 pm

Edit. I meant to say 75", sorry.

JK

mahyongg · Post by **mahyongg** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:41 pm

Ok- luckily we haven't glued anything in yet! Thanks for correcting Kaz!

Bob P · Post by **Bob P** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 2:59 pm

Just to confirm... I just checked my Spark and the seat was positioned at 75" also. And I experimented to get the position independent of Kaz's advice. So we're both wrong.

mahyongg · Post by **mahyongg** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:22 am

Ok, this is gonna take some days, we're still in for some repairs before.. but finally the gflex has arrived! ;D