C-Squirt stuff - New vid and I'm DONE
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- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
Well I'm done... whew... All new outfitting too.. easier to sink the nose after some squishing of the bow.
Here's the vid- as always, feel free to give me tips! At the end I was fooling around with stern stalls into a back deck roll.
http://www.vimeo.com/18072117
Here's the vid- as always, feel free to give me tips! At the end I was fooling around with stern stalls into a back deck roll.
http://www.vimeo.com/18072117
- the great gonzo
- Paddling Benefactor
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- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 2:03 am
- Location: Montréal, Québec
Nice!! Looking very good, the boat looks nicely trimmed and balanced.
Is there any way you can lower the saddle? From the picture it looks to me like it is about 6" high. My experiance with the acrobat was that a low saddle was really key for throwing it around. It gets yous hips closer to the pivot point of the logitudal axis of the boat and makes it so much easier to control it. I went as low as about 4". Thats when I could really concentrate on throwing around instead of staying upright.
TGG!
Is there any way you can lower the saddle? From the picture it looks to me like it is about 6" high. My experiance with the acrobat was that a low saddle was really key for throwing it around. It gets yous hips closer to the pivot point of the logitudal axis of the boat and makes it so much easier to control it. I went as low as about 4". Thats when I could really concentrate on throwing around instead of staying upright.
TGG!
Everyone must believe in something. I believe I'll go canoeing - Henry David Thoreau
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
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- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
Gonzo- Good eye, its right at 6". I've a bit more work to do on the outfitting (ankle blocks not right) so I'll shorten it down to 4" and see if that helps. Well I'm sure it will help, guess I'll see if I can survive with it that low.
Anyone else notice that pool water turns epoxy seam lines grey? Whats up with that? Any way to prevent that?
Anyone else notice that pool water turns epoxy seam lines grey? Whats up with that? Any way to prevent that?
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
I also feel like I'm slipping back too much. The backband in the Ceemweaver looks like the best fix but I can't figure out how to mount it since my acro doesn't have those thigh braces. Suggestions? Gonzo- whats your thoughts on those braces and how hard would they be to fabricate? Was thinking that an option would be to glass in simple hip pad risers that would also serve as the anchor point for the back band but I just can't picture it being strong enough to hold.
- the great gonzo
- Paddling Benefactor
- Posts: 1718
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 2:03 am
- Location: Montréal, Québec
The thighbraces did not work for me, They do not prevent you from sliding back and added a lot of volume. I trimmed them back as much as possible, leaving only two 'towers' as attachment points for the backband.
I tried several things, foam block for the bum, toe blocks to push against, but the ultimate solution was the backband. In fact the backpand and kneeblock alone keep me in the boat already, the thigh straps are there to give me that rock solid boat contact that I need to trow it around. If you can find a way to anchor a backband, that may be the best solution. But there can be a good deal of force on them, so the anchorage point needs to be strong.
You may find that lowering the saddle may already cure that problem. I was sliding back in my Bat when the saddle was at the original height ~5.5 ", I believe), but once I lowered it to 4" i was in there good.
As far as lowering the saddle, if you cut the saddle sown carefully you may be able to keep the cut piece as a raising cushing for cruising easier sections. I did that on mine. High seat in the flats, low in big rapids or when I wanted to throw it around.
TGG!
I tried several things, foam block for the bum, toe blocks to push against, but the ultimate solution was the backband. In fact the backpand and kneeblock alone keep me in the boat already, the thigh straps are there to give me that rock solid boat contact that I need to trow it around. If you can find a way to anchor a backband, that may be the best solution. But there can be a good deal of force on them, so the anchorage point needs to be strong.
You may find that lowering the saddle may already cure that problem. I was sliding back in my Bat when the saddle was at the original height ~5.5 ", I believe), but once I lowered it to 4" i was in there good.
As far as lowering the saddle, if you cut the saddle sown carefully you may be able to keep the cut piece as a raising cushing for cruising easier sections. I did that on mine. High seat in the flats, low in big rapids or when I wanted to throw it around.
TGG!
Everyone must believe in something. I believe I'll go canoeing - Henry David Thoreau
The epoxy turning grey is simply because of early exposure to water (and heavily-chlorinated water at thatSmurfwarrior wrote:Anyone else notice that pool water turns epoxy seam lines grey? Whats up with that? Any way to prevent that?
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That has been a really cool and informative project to watch. Thanks for keeping us updated with your progress.
C-boats Moderator
"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah
- Smurfwarrior
- C Maven
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:09 am
- Location: Utah