I guess I truely am a hackezwater wrote: Paddlers need to be clear about how their boat is designed and trimmed, and adjust their stroke strategies accordingly.
because that sounds way too technical.
Stern strokes - should they be avoided?
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Larry Horne
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Jared the.canoe.ninja
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Larry, the bad placement of the Phoenix cockpit caused me to use stern correction and crutch along on a low brace for years. It wasn't until I got the Zealot that I realized what a dufus the Phoenix had made of me.
I'm studying how to move the Millbrook cockpit back a bit. Part of the problem is I'm both heavy and very tall, and that tends to shift the boat trim forward. The Millbrook has one of those odd oblong-triangular rims, with the narrow part sternward. Maybe I could just split the rim at the back extreme, spread it to allow sitting farther back, and then glass in a rim segment. Or maybe I could paddle an open boat.
I'm studying how to move the Millbrook cockpit back a bit. Part of the problem is I'm both heavy and very tall, and that tends to shift the boat trim forward. The Millbrook has one of those odd oblong-triangular rims, with the narrow part sternward. Maybe I could just split the rim at the back extreme, spread it to allow sitting farther back, and then glass in a rim segment. Or maybe I could paddle an open boat.
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John Coraor
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ezwater:
Expanding a cockpit and rebuilding the coaming is a fairly easy job, particularly if you're experienced with composite & resin, as I know you are. You may already know how, but just in case....
You can use a sabre saw or similar tool to remove portions of the existing coaming and deck where you need to widen the cockpit. Sand the area underneath the deck for 3-4 inches back from the opening and 3-4 inches on either side of it, including the corresponding section of the old coaming that you're going to tie-back into. Then work an appropriately sized piece of plastic tubing under the old coaming on each side of the expansion area and hot glue it to the edge of the expanded opening.
Cut 4-6 strips of your desired cloth on the bias, about 4-6 inches wide and long enough to span across the tubing and overlap the old coaming on each side. Ideally you want to stagger the lengths and widths slightly so that you don't have a large sudden increase in thickness of the layup all at the same spot. Wet out cloth on a flat board and layup over tubing & old coaming, making sure that you run cloth under the deck for at least a couple of inches and extend a little beyond where you want the final coaming rim to be. I've heard of people using strips of peel-ply over top to get a smooth finish, but the thought of getting that to work well over such a surface that curves as dramatically in multiple dimensions as a coaming has kept me from doing so.
I let the resin gel until it is "green" and then trim it back to its final edge with a sharpended linoleum knife or a utility (razor) knife. It is a little tricky knowing when the layup has gelled just the right amount - too soon and the layup will separate when you try to cut, too late and you won't be able to cut it with a knife - but, if you get it right, it cuts like butter and leaves a very nice clean edge (NOTE: I have used this technique with S-glass and E-glass coamings; I have NOT tried it with kevlar, carbon, or interwoven kevlar/carbon fabrics and can't assure you that it would work as well with those.) If you do let the layup cure too much before cutting, then you'll need to use a sabre saw or similar tool to trim.
To finish the job, after pulling out the tubing and any hot glue I sand the edge and outside surface of the coaming (which will carry the texture of the cloth), sand any sharp edges that you feel on the inside surface (under the rim) and paint a thin coat of resin on the outside surface, strictly for apperances.
John
Expanding a cockpit and rebuilding the coaming is a fairly easy job, particularly if you're experienced with composite & resin, as I know you are. You may already know how, but just in case....
You can use a sabre saw or similar tool to remove portions of the existing coaming and deck where you need to widen the cockpit. Sand the area underneath the deck for 3-4 inches back from the opening and 3-4 inches on either side of it, including the corresponding section of the old coaming that you're going to tie-back into. Then work an appropriately sized piece of plastic tubing under the old coaming on each side of the expansion area and hot glue it to the edge of the expanded opening.
Cut 4-6 strips of your desired cloth on the bias, about 4-6 inches wide and long enough to span across the tubing and overlap the old coaming on each side. Ideally you want to stagger the lengths and widths slightly so that you don't have a large sudden increase in thickness of the layup all at the same spot. Wet out cloth on a flat board and layup over tubing & old coaming, making sure that you run cloth under the deck for at least a couple of inches and extend a little beyond where you want the final coaming rim to be. I've heard of people using strips of peel-ply over top to get a smooth finish, but the thought of getting that to work well over such a surface that curves as dramatically in multiple dimensions as a coaming has kept me from doing so.
I let the resin gel until it is "green" and then trim it back to its final edge with a sharpended linoleum knife or a utility (razor) knife. It is a little tricky knowing when the layup has gelled just the right amount - too soon and the layup will separate when you try to cut, too late and you won't be able to cut it with a knife - but, if you get it right, it cuts like butter and leaves a very nice clean edge (NOTE: I have used this technique with S-glass and E-glass coamings; I have NOT tried it with kevlar, carbon, or interwoven kevlar/carbon fabrics and can't assure you that it would work as well with those.) If you do let the layup cure too much before cutting, then you'll need to use a sabre saw or similar tool to trim.
To finish the job, after pulling out the tubing and any hot glue I sand the edge and outside surface of the coaming (which will carry the texture of the cloth), sand any sharp edges that you feel on the inside surface (under the rim) and paint a thin coat of resin on the outside surface, strictly for apperances.
John
Last edited by John Coraor on Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks, John, that confirms my experience. I once converted a Noah dual purpose hull from c-1 to k-1 (it was a terrible c-1, but it's at least a fast and interesting k-1) by laying up a Prijon type rim. 'Twas long ago, but I think I used slips of E-glass over Tygon tubing.
My main issue with the Wide Ride is that I am lazy, and looking to do the job in a way that requires the least work. That's why I thought of cutting the rear sides of the rim loose, splitting the back end in the process, excizing the deck to match the new position, and then laying up just the little new segment of rim needed where the back is split. For just a little spreading, I should get the backward room I need to sit a little farther back, plus some for back leans.
If my knees get any more intolerant of low kneels, I may have to stick to open boat.
My main issue with the Wide Ride is that I am lazy, and looking to do the job in a way that requires the least work. That's why I thought of cutting the rear sides of the rim loose, splitting the back end in the process, excizing the deck to match the new position, and then laying up just the little new segment of rim needed where the back is split. For just a little spreading, I should get the backward room I need to sit a little farther back, plus some for back leans.
If my knees get any more intolerant of low kneels, I may have to stick to open boat.
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Larry Horne
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