How are the L'edge's holding up?
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- Pain Boater
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How are the L'edge's holding up?
Just wondering, as it seems that they have been given a fair amount of abuse. Are they holding up ok? Anybody have any big dents or cracks?
PBR ME ASAP!!
I would think with the plastic being so thick they would hold up forever! I believe it was 2 that cracked the week of ALF, which seem to be anomalies. Don't quote me on that number though, all second/third/fourth hand information on them.
-Anthony
"I'm gonna run this one river left I think.... So far river left, that I'm gonna be on the bank. With my boat on my shoulder."
"I'm gonna run this one river left I think.... So far river left, that I'm gonna be on the bank. With my boat on my shoulder."
- Todhunter
- Ridge Spirit Outfitting
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I have seen a couple of broken ones, but mine is holding up fine. Here is my totally uneducated opinion is to why the ones that broke did break:
All the breaks I have seen have been under the rear of the saddle. On the broken boats, there has always been a gap between the top of the back of the saddle and the thwart. This gap gets bigger when you get in the boat in the water, as your weight (and the weight of any water in the boat) is pushing down on the saddle (and thus, the bottom of the hull) and moving the saddle away from the thwart. When you go over a drop, the bottom of the hull is allowed to flex since the saddle isn't attached or even contacting the rear thwart. My boat had such a gap, but I have temporarily stuffed a slice of minicell in there to take up the space. Ideally, I'd like to find some way to attach the rear of the saddle to the rear thwart.
Again, this is my uneducated opinion. I absolutely love my L'Edge!
(not a paid liar)
All the breaks I have seen have been under the rear of the saddle. On the broken boats, there has always been a gap between the top of the back of the saddle and the thwart. This gap gets bigger when you get in the boat in the water, as your weight (and the weight of any water in the boat) is pushing down on the saddle (and thus, the bottom of the hull) and moving the saddle away from the thwart. When you go over a drop, the bottom of the hull is allowed to flex since the saddle isn't attached or even contacting the rear thwart. My boat had such a gap, but I have temporarily stuffed a slice of minicell in there to take up the space. Ideally, I'd like to find some way to attach the rear of the saddle to the rear thwart.
Again, this is my uneducated opinion. I absolutely love my L'Edge!
(not a paid liar)
Matt Todhunter
Ridge Spirit Outfitting - Custom Bulkhead Canoe Saddles
Ridge Spirit Outfitting - Custom Bulkhead Canoe Saddles
- Smurfwarrior
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When welding, one of the recommendations is to reinforce the weld with metal mesh (stainless or aluminum) - I wonder if this would be a good idea at manufacturing for the high stress areas?
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- Smurfwarrior
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No clue but sounds good. I did that when I welded the SL'Edge together and is working great. Maybe weight would be an issue or creating a stess riser wherever you ended the mesh insert. Interesting thought
Last edited by Smurfwarrior on Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Matt, I drilled a hole in the top of my saddle, under the thwart, and glued in a 3" length of 1" wood dowel rod. Then I ran a screw through the thwart into the dowel rod.Todhunter wrote: Ideally, I'd like to find some way to attach the rear of the saddle to the rear thwart.
I did this to both the front and back. In past boats I have used two dowels at each end but decided to try just one on this boat.
Dennis
"Just Cause I Don't Run My Mouth Don't Mean I Got Nothing To Say" Mike Cooley DBT
"Just Cause I Don't Run My Mouth Don't Mean I Got Nothing To Say" Mike Cooley DBT
- Todhunter
- Ridge Spirit Outfitting
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Thanks...sounds like a good idea.kanur wrote:Matt, I drilled a hole in the top of my saddle, under the thwart, and glued in a 3" length of 1" wood dowel rod. Then I ran a screw through the thwart into the dowel rod.Todhunter wrote: Ideally, I'd like to find some way to attach the rear of the saddle to the rear thwart.
I did this to both the front and back. In past boats I have used two dowels at each end but decided to try just one on this boat.
Matt Todhunter
Ridge Spirit Outfitting - Custom Bulkhead Canoe Saddles
Ridge Spirit Outfitting - Custom Bulkhead Canoe Saddles
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Decked or open?
Mine has been fine. Are the ones that have broken, opened or decked?
Rapid video review of the L'Edge, http://www.rapidmag.com/videos/1473-nei ... Extra.html
Rapid video review of the L'Edge, http://www.rapidmag.com/videos/1473-nei ... Extra.html
Scott MacGregor
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Rapid Media
Rapid, Canoeroots & Family Camping, Adventure Kayak, Kayak Angler, Reel Paddling Film Festival, Canadian Whitewater Instructor Conference, Palmer Fest
Publisher
Rapid Media
Rapid, Canoeroots & Family Camping, Adventure Kayak, Kayak Angler, Reel Paddling Film Festival, Canadian Whitewater Instructor Conference, Palmer Fest
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I too was wondering about that- and if it is even possible- adding aluminum mesh in the mold at time of manufacture. It would not add much weight may even possibly save some weight. I know nothing about the molding process to know if it is even possible but if it was I think it would stop cracks and if you did crack a boat with it in it then you must really have hit something
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Mine has held up great so far (knock on wood).
I've had mine since August and I've really paddled it hard. In the last two or three weeks alone I've run Thunderhead Prong, Tremont, Laurel Fork of the Doe, the West Prong, Tellico, Triple Falls, Cheoah and the Little River Canyon Suicide Section at low water.
That is some mega abuse and the L'Edge is holding up.
I've had mine since August and I've really paddled it hard. In the last two or three weeks alone I've run Thunderhead Prong, Tremont, Laurel Fork of the Doe, the West Prong, Tellico, Triple Falls, Cheoah and the Little River Canyon Suicide Section at low water.
That is some mega abuse and the L'Edge is holding up.