Do any of you guys around the Richmond, Northern VA area have an Atom I can get a tracing of the cockpit from? I recently purchased a Viper and the cockpit is a little tight and concerns me if I were have to get out of it in a bad spot. Also how high is too high for a saddle in a Viper, the one that was in it when I bought it was 4.5 inches which was pretty painfull for me. My H3 is 7.5 inches and felt like I was paddling a Lay-Z-Boy after getting out of the Viper. I was thinking of a 7 inch saddle and making new knee cups with a thinner bottom piece to give me a tad bit more room. Anyhow I was curious if 7in was too high.
PS. Sorry I mssed meeting some of you guys at the NB armada. I met a friend up there who had a paddler with him that was a little shakey and wanted somebody eles to float with them. We had a great time though and from the posts it looks like you guys did too.
MS
Atom cockpit
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Sir Adam
- CBoats.net Staff
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Viper Stuff
Mountain Surf has the tracings for both "normal" and "enlarged cockpit" Vipers.
I like a 6.5" in my current 1/2 cut, but had an 8" in my full cut...THAT was a comfy boat! So the boat's width can handle it....
I like a 6.5" in my current 1/2 cut, but had an 8" in my full cut...THAT was a comfy boat! So the boat's width can handle it....
Keep the C!
Adam
Adam
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(O)C
Atom far from Richmond...
I've got an Atom but am way up north from Richmond. Could trace you something up if you're stuck, let me know. (O)C.
how are you building the cockpit?
I'm doing the same thing to a different type boat (an old squirt C1) but not sure how to proceed. Cutting the hole was easy!
Do you know of any resources on how to construct the coaming?
Thanks
Do you know of any resources on how to construct the coaming?
Thanks
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yukon
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Mike W.
- CBoats.net Staff
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- Location: Roanoke Rapids, NC
- Contact:
I'm at 8" in my full cut Viper. A few folks at the armada claimed that it was too high. Then they said something about when I grow up I wont need the booster seat 
. I think it's plenty stable @ 8" & will not lower mine.
Just a note about cockpit sizes. I have what is supposed to be a 'slalom sized' skirt. It fits both my Viper (made by Winterport) & Acrobat (made by New Wave). I called Mountain Surf to get a new skirt. They said that the cockpits were close enough for the same skirt to fit. I agreed. The new skirt popped in 2 out of 3 flatwater rolls in the Acro. It didn't pop on the Viper, but did feel loose. I called back & was given their measurements for the cockpit. They did not match my boats. I've traced both rims & am sending them to Mountain Surf. John has been really good to work with on this & I highly recomend Mountain Surf. Due to obvious variances with glass boats, you may want to include a tracing when you order your skirt.
. I think it's plenty stable @ 8" & will not lower mine.Just a note about cockpit sizes. I have what is supposed to be a 'slalom sized' skirt. It fits both my Viper (made by Winterport) & Acrobat (made by New Wave). I called Mountain Surf to get a new skirt. They said that the cockpits were close enough for the same skirt to fit. I agreed. The new skirt popped in 2 out of 3 flatwater rolls in the Acro. It didn't pop on the Viper, but did feel loose. I called back & was given their measurements for the cockpit. They did not match my boats. I've traced both rims & am sending them to Mountain Surf. John has been really good to work with on this & I highly recomend Mountain Surf. Due to obvious variances with glass boats, you may want to include a tracing when you order your skirt.
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Sir Adam
- CBoats.net Staff
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Cockpit Rims and Skirts
Ok, first, the skirts-I've noticed as well the cockpit size varies a bit, mostly from manufacturer to manufacturer (e.g. Winterport and New Wave). Additionally on at least 1 squirt boat I believe the cockpit was enlarged slightly so the "standard" slalom skirt would be even tighter (and hopefully drier). I've also found that lower seats=less stress on the skirt=less popping (unless the skirt REALLY doesn't fit, in which case your sinking regardless...).
Secondly, cockpit rims are easy to do-just take your time and think it through. I'm sure there are better ways to do this, but this is what I've picked up, but you are don't it at your own risk, etc.., etc..., etc....
REMEMBER TO WEAR SAFETEY EQUIPEMENT-mask, gloves, and eye protection as appropriate.
1) Purchase fiberglass weave (NOT MAT)
2) Purchase WEST Systems epoxy (will stick to the boat regardless of what it was made of, and is easier to work with IMhO)
3) Sand "inside" of the cockpit down. Put down waxed paper or saran wrap (so the drips won't stick...)
4) Use an old section of garden hose or round foam insulation (available at the hardware store for sealing windows, I think)(John Sweet also sells it) to make a form for the cockpit rim
5) Place saran wrap over the top of the foam / hose and deck of the boat (so you're boat doesn't look like the first one I did...) Be sure it does NOT go too far inside the boat (it has to stick to SOMETHING), just to the edge of the hole is fine (that way it's easier to get the hose / foam out too)
6) Cut the fiberglass in to little rectangles on the cross weave (e.g. cut on the diagonal, not with the fibers-it will fray less). I like different shapes, and about 4x6" or less, but to each there own!
7) Mix the epoxy up and wet the glass (you can either use a separate work area, or dunk the glass in the epoxy for the first round, then lay the others up "dry" and massage them until the epoxy comes through)-wet each piece as you go
Place the glass over the foam/ hose and wrap into the boat so it "sticks" to the under-side you sanded out. Watch those drips! You will want the glass to overhang a bit so you can form a good lip-don't worry about excess-you'll trim it later
9) Lay up a whole bunch of layers. Yes, it takes time, but you don't want this thing cracking to you!
10) Once you'r all set let it kick off a bit (harden), but not all the way. It will be stiff but tacky. Now you can trim it the excess that overhangs the hose / foam with a utility (sheetrock) knife. Remember to leave a lip so it "catches" your skirt (feel a current glass rim and you'll know what to aim for). You'll be cutting right into the foam / old hose (I said old didn't I!)
11) Once it's hard pull the foam or hose out-it may take some tugging, but it's very doable. Remove all the saran wrap and discard. Use a rasp / sand paper to sand the edge smooth, and wrap with tape if you'd like. REMEMBER TO WEAR A MASK. No breathing those fibers!
And be sure to post questions / how it came out / ways to improve these destructions.... For a few mildly helpful images check out the Maven and Repair links.
Secondly, cockpit rims are easy to do-just take your time and think it through. I'm sure there are better ways to do this, but this is what I've picked up, but you are don't it at your own risk, etc.., etc..., etc....
REMEMBER TO WEAR SAFETEY EQUIPEMENT-mask, gloves, and eye protection as appropriate.
1) Purchase fiberglass weave (NOT MAT)
2) Purchase WEST Systems epoxy (will stick to the boat regardless of what it was made of, and is easier to work with IMhO)
3) Sand "inside" of the cockpit down. Put down waxed paper or saran wrap (so the drips won't stick...)
4) Use an old section of garden hose or round foam insulation (available at the hardware store for sealing windows, I think)(John Sweet also sells it) to make a form for the cockpit rim
5) Place saran wrap over the top of the foam / hose and deck of the boat (so you're boat doesn't look like the first one I did...) Be sure it does NOT go too far inside the boat (it has to stick to SOMETHING), just to the edge of the hole is fine (that way it's easier to get the hose / foam out too)
6) Cut the fiberglass in to little rectangles on the cross weave (e.g. cut on the diagonal, not with the fibers-it will fray less). I like different shapes, and about 4x6" or less, but to each there own!
7) Mix the epoxy up and wet the glass (you can either use a separate work area, or dunk the glass in the epoxy for the first round, then lay the others up "dry" and massage them until the epoxy comes through)-wet each piece as you go
Place the glass over the foam/ hose and wrap into the boat so it "sticks" to the under-side you sanded out. Watch those drips! You will want the glass to overhang a bit so you can form a good lip-don't worry about excess-you'll trim it later9) Lay up a whole bunch of layers. Yes, it takes time, but you don't want this thing cracking to you!
10) Once you'r all set let it kick off a bit (harden), but not all the way. It will be stiff but tacky. Now you can trim it the excess that overhangs the hose / foam with a utility (sheetrock) knife. Remember to leave a lip so it "catches" your skirt (feel a current glass rim and you'll know what to aim for). You'll be cutting right into the foam / old hose (I said old didn't I!)
11) Once it's hard pull the foam or hose out-it may take some tugging, but it's very doable. Remove all the saran wrap and discard. Use a rasp / sand paper to sand the edge smooth, and wrap with tape if you'd like. REMEMBER TO WEAR A MASK. No breathing those fibers!
And be sure to post questions / how it came out / ways to improve these destructions.... For a few mildly helpful images check out the Maven and Repair links.
Keep the C!
Adam
Adam
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Don Williams
- C Boater
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 2:44 pm
You've probably read it elsewhere but the "Boatbuilder's Manual" by Walbridge is a very good resource. The book itself was written in the 80's and Menasha Ridge Press doesn't carry it any more. A quick web search found several places where you can get a copy, some of the used ones are quite cheap.
Don
Don
glass coamings
An additional tip for the glass boat paddler is to periodically use wet/dry sandpaper around the edge of the coaming rim. This keeps your sprayskirt from being destroyed.