I've got some half finished solid ash paddles at home (I started them a while ago, then had to stop when I moved house and no longer had anywher to work on them...) the basic shape is in place, I just need to thin the blades a little, tidy it up a little, then wrap and edge them...
Would getting dynel rope of a diameter roughly the thickness of the paddle, routing the edge to create a half circle recess around the edge and then laying the rope & resin into that be preferable to creating a smooth flat edge with a spokeshave/plane, then working the rope into a half circle shape before the resin cures, and then laying the wrap material slightly over the edge of the wood and onto the rope edging for extra security.
I also had an idea to re-carve one of the blades to a relatively angular shape and use lignum vitae (ironwood) as an edging material, but it would be extremely time-consuming to work... not to mention expensive if I can't find a supplier who can deal with small orders.
Any opinions on my considered approaches?
Paddle edging?
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Paddle edging?
Joshua Kelly - "More George Smiley than James Bond"
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Re: Paddle edging?
I've tipped one paddle, using flat edges, and it came out good.
I don't have a vacuum bag, so after putting on the soaked dynel I wrapped it with stretch wrap. The cord pulled down nice and flat against the wood, so I think a flat blade edge will do just fine. The cord I used was thicker than the blade, which I found to be a good thing, because I got good contact with the whole edge. It was easy to belt sand it flush after it cured.
I think the only thing I would do different is how I put the epoxy on the cord. I just painted in on, working on a piece of cardboard. I thought I had enough on, but the cord soaked it in before I could get it wrapped on the paddle. No big deal, I had enough cure time to paint it again before I wrapped it. Next time I would coil the cord up in a little plastic cup, pour in epoxy, and use a dowel or something to poke and prod it to push out air bubbles. That should insure a thorough soak all the way through the cord.
I don't have a vacuum bag, so after putting on the soaked dynel I wrapped it with stretch wrap. The cord pulled down nice and flat against the wood, so I think a flat blade edge will do just fine. The cord I used was thicker than the blade, which I found to be a good thing, because I got good contact with the whole edge. It was easy to belt sand it flush after it cured.
I think the only thing I would do different is how I put the epoxy on the cord. I just painted in on, working on a piece of cardboard. I thought I had enough on, but the cord soaked it in before I could get it wrapped on the paddle. No big deal, I had enough cure time to paint it again before I wrapped it. Next time I would coil the cord up in a little plastic cup, pour in epoxy, and use a dowel or something to poke and prod it to push out air bubbles. That should insure a thorough soak all the way through the cord.
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Re: Paddle edging?
lignum vitae can be brittle if you don't get the real stuff (which is endangered). i made a bowl out of it about a month ago that cracked when i dropped it about 6 inches. it's also heavy, if you didn't know. i'd just go with the rope.
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Re: Paddle edging?
We've got a housebrick sized piece at home*, it makes an actual brick look light... I'm fairly sure I could lay my hands on the real stuff, it's just trying to get a small amount of it, and preferably pre-machined to profile... To be honest it was more of a cool idea of how to make an all wood-oiled paddle which would be tough enough for whitewater, than a practical idea (come to think of it, the blade surface would still be suceptable to damage anyway)Bob Wiggins wrote:lignum vitae can be brittle if you don't get the real stuff (which is endangered). i made a bowl out of it about a month ago that cracked when i dropped it about 6 inches. it's also heavy, if you didn't know. i'd just go with the rope.
*My dad aquired it when he was running the training for the Timber Trades Federation, along with oodles of other rare and unusual samples; as wood goes, it's very cool though perhaps not striking as the purpleheart puzzle. [/timber geekery]
Joshua Kelly - "More George Smiley than James Bond"
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Re: Paddle edging?
well hey, i started it.TheKrikkitWars wrote: *My dad aquired it when he was running the training for the Timber Trades Federation, along with oodles of other rare and unusual samples; as wood goes, it's very cool though perhaps not striking as the purpleheart puzzle. [/timber geekery]
i know what you mean- i love purpleheart- i especially love giving it to someone and having them come back a week later and say "hey, this bowl you gave me (or pen, or whatever) turned purple! this is too cool!" (yellow- and red-heart are also neat, as is bloodwood.)
i use lignum vitae for the guides on my bandsaw- perfect use. i also made a pen out of some scrap that i use in the shop- i didn't put a finish on it, and it hasnt scratched yet.
anyway, we can now go back to the original topic.
Bob
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Re: Paddle edging?
Talking of purpleheart has made me wonder if I could inlay a blade with it... Which is to be entirely fair completely outside of my woodworking experience, once again I must remind myself to take things one step at a time.
Joshua Kelly - "More George Smiley than James Bond"
CBoats Moderator - Not necessarily representing the CBoats staff though...(I'll use words like "moderator", "We" and "CBoats" to make it clear when I am)
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Re: Paddle edging?
ya know, i've got some scrap laying around the shop- i might try it for a wall hanging... well i was bored anyway. gives me something to do. what do yall think of maple with purpleheart inlay, glassed? i'll post pics if i do...