How Low Can You Go? Cquirt? (Pics added 4/13)
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amollohan99
- Pain Boater
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: VA
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the great gonzo
- Paddling Benefactor
- Posts: 1718
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 2:03 am
- Location: Montréal, Québec
Huge is right about the cockpit opening. The one in the Acrobat is the size of an old school slalom boat and, at least for long legged guys, just too small for comfoort and stability. Iam seriously contamplating cutting the rim on my acrobat and opening the cocpit si that it has approximately the same shape as the one of the Galasport Loco.
Go and get that boat chopped down. There will be smaller cust acrobats at the Cquirt for you to get an idea on what works for you.
TGG!
Go and get that boat chopped down. There will be smaller cust acrobats at the Cquirt for you to get an idea on what works for you.
TGG!
Everyone must believe in something. I believe I'll go canoeing - Henry David Thoreau
Hey that's My boat
Well it used to be. I sold it to Amallohan, guess he sold it to Mr Tgrip. That was the only fullcut Acrobat I ever saw as it was the only one I ever saw with winds, as the boat was originally designed for racing. Some one told me that another mold was made as a play boat/ river runner without the wings. I can not say this for sure but should be easy to confirm with a call to Paul.
The boat was a fabulus river runner for big water. Think New @5+ feet, Gauley @4,000+, Cheat @3.5+feet. This thing was a green wave surf machine and spectacular enders too.
I think most most people have found the Acrobat to be a difficult boat to sink. There is inherently too much volume below the seems. I do not believe a simple chop yeilds enough volume reduction over all for sinkability, you lose too much volume around the outside edge to maintain stability. The propper way to create a sinkable Acrobat would be to create a whole new concave deck, leaving enough volume around the edges for stability. I had the same issues when I designed and built the first woodie. I started small and then raised the deck. The issue of stability came up as I was trying to keep the edges razor thin. C-1's need stability fore and aft as we have a higher center of gravity ie. think narrow kayak=23", not a good C-1 width. I had to widen the knee area of the woodie to create a tad more stability in an agressive forward lean posture. As you can see a severe Acrobat chop runs into the same difficulty. Removing the volume around the edge (standard chop) you create a narrower boat, like -22".
And yes you can chop and pinch the end areas and leave the cockpit area unchopped. You do stress a cured matrix though and under extreme pressure may be prone to blowing a seam, but I have done it before.
My best alternative to achieving your goal would be, either start a new deck from scratch ( labor intensive), or simply chop the hull by about 1", take some 3/4" pipe insulation (home depot), tape it around the seam edge of the hull, chop the snot out of the deck to where there was only the rim and maybe 12" front and rear and 2" side left, prop the chopped deck 6" off the inside of the hull and then drape my new deck over the whole thing creating a beautifull concave deck. Granted I am used to pulling one offs and then paddling them rough. Many people would want to bondo the creation, pull a mold and then pull a pure deck from that=manufacturing yes, one off creation= not economical.
Just my 3.2 cents
JIM
The boat was a fabulus river runner for big water. Think New @5+ feet, Gauley @4,000+, Cheat @3.5+feet. This thing was a green wave surf machine and spectacular enders too.
I think most most people have found the Acrobat to be a difficult boat to sink. There is inherently too much volume below the seems. I do not believe a simple chop yeilds enough volume reduction over all for sinkability, you lose too much volume around the outside edge to maintain stability. The propper way to create a sinkable Acrobat would be to create a whole new concave deck, leaving enough volume around the edges for stability. I had the same issues when I designed and built the first woodie. I started small and then raised the deck. The issue of stability came up as I was trying to keep the edges razor thin. C-1's need stability fore and aft as we have a higher center of gravity ie. think narrow kayak=23", not a good C-1 width. I had to widen the knee area of the woodie to create a tad more stability in an agressive forward lean posture. As you can see a severe Acrobat chop runs into the same difficulty. Removing the volume around the edge (standard chop) you create a narrower boat, like -22".
And yes you can chop and pinch the end areas and leave the cockpit area unchopped. You do stress a cured matrix though and under extreme pressure may be prone to blowing a seam, but I have done it before.
My best alternative to achieving your goal would be, either start a new deck from scratch ( labor intensive), or simply chop the hull by about 1", take some 3/4" pipe insulation (home depot), tape it around the seam edge of the hull, chop the snot out of the deck to where there was only the rim and maybe 12" front and rear and 2" side left, prop the chopped deck 6" off the inside of the hull and then drape my new deck over the whole thing creating a beautifull concave deck. Granted I am used to pulling one offs and then paddling them rough. Many people would want to bondo the creation, pull a mold and then pull a pure deck from that=manufacturing yes, one off creation= not economical.
Just my 3.2 cents
JIM
HAHAHA
Dude that boat is a squirt (traditional use, tail or bow squirt) feind. Some of my big water experience with that boat is hilarious. Like riding out Middle Keeney at 6 feet in a total tail squirt. I never saw any waves or holes. Nothing but blue sky. hahaha. Or Cucumber on the Lower Yough at 6 feet. I caught too much hole and was under the foam pile for a long time, stable and upright. Some body has a picture of my slow reappearance. From shore he said it was comical, as I looked around, neck deep. He invisioned I was looking for my boat.
JIM
JIM