C-Forum

I'm moving forward with a system like that posted by Ice-Breaker. As part of the process, I'm planning to make my own semi-rigid thigh and knee straps, following the instructions at http://www.open-canoe.de/open/canoes/fi ... thigh.html

I have the tubular webbing, but I can't for the life of me figure out what the plastic strips are that he is using inside the webbing. My local hardware store doesn't appear to have anything similiar, but maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Alternatively, maybe there are just things called "plastic strips" at an area home improvement store (I haven't been yet). Does anyone have an idea of what those strips are and where to look for them. Does anyone have ideas for alternative things to use in the tubular webbing to make semi-rigid straps.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have used clear Lexan (polycarbonate) plastic that I bought in a small sheet at Menard's:

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CGcQ8wIwAA#

This can be cut in strips with an appropriate saw. I generally used strips about 1.5" wide to put into 2" tubular nylon webbing. It can be warmed with a heat gun and shaped over a cylindrical object like a can that approximates the diameter of your mid-thigh. I put a layer of duct tape around the Lexan to give it some reinforcement and protect the nylon from sharp edges if it cracks. If it does break, it is easily replaced.

I made a set up like this and got the plastic at Lowes. Just show the pix to find what you need. As for the lexan, if you go that route it won't break only bend thats why it's used as bullet proof glass

Well, I can say from experience that the Lexan can break. I think the bullet proof glass is considerably thicker.

But the Lexan does hold up pretty well, and if a strip does crack it is easy enough to pull it out of the tubular webbing and put in a new piece, which I have done.

Yes it can break, just after much bending and no shattering tendencies like plexiglas. Best thing about poly carb (lexan) is it is fairly cheap and easy to work with.

What about using thin ABS strips, it shoud hold up realy well, can be formed to shape and shouldn't break!

I'm going to try some leftover plexiglass I got from my local hardware store; I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Does anyone know what paint to us (or not to use) on mini-cell foam? My daughter would like to personalize her saddle.

Well, here it is for anyone who is interested.

I took out the wooden thwarts, and replaced them with 1" aluminum tubing (1/16" wall). I didn't crimp the tubing, but I got cork bottle stoppers for the ends; the screws pass through the tubing and the cork, and the cork molds itself nicely to the hull. We'll see how it lasts in practice, but it feels pretty solid. I also took out the seats. It really lightened the boat.

Pretty standard saddle with footpegs (from Mohawk Canoe); be kind, it's my first try, and I did it by hand. I've run webbing through the saddle, so I can secure it to the daisy-chained webbing anchors that I put along the bottom of the canoe. That way I can move wherever it needs to be based on how I'm paddling the boat. I have a second saddle for the front for paddling tandem, but I'm waiting on another set of daisy chained webbing to come in.

I'm using these daisy chain anchors for the thigh and knee straps. The straps are semi-rigid. I used tubual webbing with plexiglass on the inside. I heated the plexiglass with a heat gun until it was flexible and then molded it to my legs. I wrapped th plexiglass in duct tape, so (hopefully) it won't break . . . or at least it won't stab me if it does break. I'm a little disappointed with the fit of the knee straps, securing them under the gunwales is definitely not ideal. In case you are wondering, the under-gunwales anchors are parachute cord that I'd already laced through the hull to serve as anchors for a center floatation bag. Could be a weak point in practice - we'll see.

Finally, the black velcro strips are for holding down knee blocks,
which aren't shown in the pictures. My wife came up with the idea as a way of setting-up moveable knee-pads/blocks, though I've since seen in online a few places.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice!

https://picasaweb.google.com/july4jones ... 9521496210
https://picasaweb.google.com/july4jones ... 0073434370

I've been using Velcro strips for my knee-pads for a long time, just in case someone else wants to try one of my boats. For those who use a foam pedestal, that might be an interesting approach too. (Two strips along the bottom of the foam.) You'd have to make the upper attachments and hip-blocks adjustable too, of course. The setup would be great for the initial seat-locating process and also would allow removing the seat to convert a solo to a tandem configuration...

The bad part is that it is sometimes really hard to separate the Velcro once it is locked together.

What kind/brand, of velcro do you use? i never had good results with any velcro yet, whe it come time to take the pads of the velcro, usualy the velcro get loose of the hull or the pad.
any info would be good!

I used 2" strips of whatever they had in the hardware store. It was labeled Industrial Strength so it must be good!

It seems pretty solid in the boat, but it came off one pad almost immediately. I used contact cement on it, and it seems to be on the pad pretty solidly now. We'll see what happens in action.

Velcro comes in many different grades of "stick".

Velcro Selector (McMaster-Carr)

The one I used, was the industrial stenght and the brand was velcdo... didn't work that well....

Lappie wrote:The one I used, was the industrial stenght and the brand was velcdo... didn't work that well....

Works well if you glue it with contact cement.

The adhesive-backed Velcro listed on the McMaster site works much better on a plastic hull than contact cement. It might not be the ultra-strong-hook Velcro, but the lesser strength is still enough. (In fact, that style is probably meant to be a permanent connection.)