Stern squirt
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 5:52 pm
Stern squirt
by Telewhacker Telewhacker
Contrary to all advice (albeit from kayakers) I seem to have much better success doing an offside squirt initiated with a sweep stroke, than I am with an onside squirt initiated with a stern pry.
Offside seems more stable and I can cheat a dab or brace to remain upright.
Onside squirts leave me precariously balanced over my boat with no hope of a brace. Shortly thereafter I get to review all the roll tips I just submitted to the group.
Am I doing something perverse here, or is this a C-1 thing?
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 1:01 PM
how it works for me
by Scott B.
I find an "on-side" stern squirt to be easier for me - I can't seem to get the stern under with a sweep, that could be technique, it could be a boat geometry issue. Could you describe your technique in some detail? What kind of boat are you in? Note, you aren't the only C-1er who found it easier to do the off-side squirt - I knew a boater who paddled an RPM would could go past vert that way but not to his on-side.
In flat water, for an on-side squirt, I get some forward speed up and let the boat start to veer to the right (I'm a righty) then start to tilt the boat over to the left (5-15 degrees?). I then reach back with a stern pry plastered right against the boat and looking back there - really commit here - and then pry away, throwing your hip into the outside of the turn. As the boat slices in, your paddle should actually stick in the water with your boat moving away and around - next thing you know, you should find your boat going vertical with your paddle in a high brace position. I find that I can hang on that brace and hold the boat up; draw it around to the bow continuing the spin; or turning it into a hard back stroke, smashing the bow down. Short and long boats will act differently - a short boat will go up and over easily, but not be as stable on end; longer boats will take more careful technique, but are much more stable on end.
In moving water, you should need less force, but more careful timing. Coming out of an eddy, time the peak of your lean and pry as you approach being 90 degrees to the eddy line; similar on entering an eddy. Use this technique, tempered somewhat, to make "pivot turns" - I think most of my turns to the on-side are pivot turns to some degree, great for changing direction in a wave train.
Possible modes of failure :
* lean too far - you will flop to your off side
* lean to little - the stern will skid across the surface
* don't commit - see "lean to little"
* don't look back - that helps you wind up effectively and get enough "punch", plus it can be cool to watch the stern slide in (esp in clear water)
* try it in a too high volume boat - Ouch! Hopped in a Cascade and, not thinking, tried to pivot turn. It was like walking into a wall...
Scott
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 1:46 PM
how it forks for me.1
by telewhacker
I never seem to get the high brace part of the program, but I think I am both leaning too little and not winding up enough. I can never recall even getting a glimpse of the stern doing anything.
On the offside, I paddle up the eddy start to swerve to the right (I'm a lefty) cock my hips into the current and waiting for the current to begin grabbing the boat. When the boat begins to accelerate around I lean back and sweep from the bow to the stern pulling it under the current. This is a strong enough stroke that I can always pull the boat past vertical even in flat water.
With the boat up and spinning I can push down with my knees throwing the bow under far enough (1'-2') that my quickly placed cross bow draw will pass over the now submerged bow for a sort of double ender.
Or more roll practice.
I am paddling a C-1'd Ultrafuge 5'9" 160lbs.
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 2:00 PM
The sequence that (sometimes) works for me ...
by John O. John O.
The sequence that works for me (some of the time) is:
- get a little forward momentum
- rotate my shoulders and head until I'm looking at the stern
- place the paddle against my stern and pry outward
- an image that I remember from a Jim Synder Squirt book says something to the effect of tilting your hip slightly and then slipping the boat into the hole in the water you just made - only he says it more clearly - it is an image that really works for me and improves my success rate
- as for the brace, I seem to have developed some funky habit where my upper forearm is on, or infront of, my forehead and the paddle shaft is vertical and the blade is a foot or two from the boat - if the boat screws up nicely I head for this position because I have plenty of room to move the paddle around as needed, and it feels pretty solid - I don't know what is "proper", this may be way, way off what most people find effective
In short, I find rotating the shoulders/head to be the biggest factor, and the image of slipping the boat into the hole in the water to be the second biggest, for me personally. But, to each, his own.
Be well,
John O.
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 7:40 PM
by Telewhacker Telewhacker
Contrary to all advice (albeit from kayakers) I seem to have much better success doing an offside squirt initiated with a sweep stroke, than I am with an onside squirt initiated with a stern pry.
Offside seems more stable and I can cheat a dab or brace to remain upright.
Onside squirts leave me precariously balanced over my boat with no hope of a brace. Shortly thereafter I get to review all the roll tips I just submitted to the group.
Am I doing something perverse here, or is this a C-1 thing?
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 1:01 PM
how it works for me
by Scott B.
I find an "on-side" stern squirt to be easier for me - I can't seem to get the stern under with a sweep, that could be technique, it could be a boat geometry issue. Could you describe your technique in some detail? What kind of boat are you in? Note, you aren't the only C-1er who found it easier to do the off-side squirt - I knew a boater who paddled an RPM would could go past vert that way but not to his on-side.
In flat water, for an on-side squirt, I get some forward speed up and let the boat start to veer to the right (I'm a righty) then start to tilt the boat over to the left (5-15 degrees?). I then reach back with a stern pry plastered right against the boat and looking back there - really commit here - and then pry away, throwing your hip into the outside of the turn. As the boat slices in, your paddle should actually stick in the water with your boat moving away and around - next thing you know, you should find your boat going vertical with your paddle in a high brace position. I find that I can hang on that brace and hold the boat up; draw it around to the bow continuing the spin; or turning it into a hard back stroke, smashing the bow down. Short and long boats will act differently - a short boat will go up and over easily, but not be as stable on end; longer boats will take more careful technique, but are much more stable on end.
In moving water, you should need less force, but more careful timing. Coming out of an eddy, time the peak of your lean and pry as you approach being 90 degrees to the eddy line; similar on entering an eddy. Use this technique, tempered somewhat, to make "pivot turns" - I think most of my turns to the on-side are pivot turns to some degree, great for changing direction in a wave train.
Possible modes of failure :
* lean too far - you will flop to your off side
* lean to little - the stern will skid across the surface
* don't commit - see "lean to little"
* don't look back - that helps you wind up effectively and get enough "punch", plus it can be cool to watch the stern slide in (esp in clear water)
* try it in a too high volume boat - Ouch! Hopped in a Cascade and, not thinking, tried to pivot turn. It was like walking into a wall...
Scott
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 1:46 PM
how it forks for me.1
by telewhacker
I never seem to get the high brace part of the program, but I think I am both leaning too little and not winding up enough. I can never recall even getting a glimpse of the stern doing anything.
On the offside, I paddle up the eddy start to swerve to the right (I'm a lefty) cock my hips into the current and waiting for the current to begin grabbing the boat. When the boat begins to accelerate around I lean back and sweep from the bow to the stern pulling it under the current. This is a strong enough stroke that I can always pull the boat past vertical even in flat water.
With the boat up and spinning I can push down with my knees throwing the bow under far enough (1'-2') that my quickly placed cross bow draw will pass over the now submerged bow for a sort of double ender.
Or more roll practice.
I am paddling a C-1'd Ultrafuge 5'9" 160lbs.
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 2:00 PM
The sequence that (sometimes) works for me ...
by John O. John O.
The sequence that works for me (some of the time) is:
- get a little forward momentum
- rotate my shoulders and head until I'm looking at the stern
- place the paddle against my stern and pry outward
- an image that I remember from a Jim Synder Squirt book says something to the effect of tilting your hip slightly and then slipping the boat into the hole in the water you just made - only he says it more clearly - it is an image that really works for me and improves my success rate
- as for the brace, I seem to have developed some funky habit where my upper forearm is on, or infront of, my forehead and the paddle shaft is vertical and the blade is a foot or two from the boat - if the boat screws up nicely I head for this position because I have plenty of room to move the paddle around as needed, and it feels pretty solid - I don't know what is "proper", this may be way, way off what most people find effective
In short, I find rotating the shoulders/head to be the biggest factor, and the image of slipping the boat into the hole in the water to be the second biggest, for me personally. But, to each, his own.
Be well,
John O.
Posted on Aug 22, 2002, 7:40 PM