Advice on Wavesport X
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 8:23 pm
Advice on Wavesport X
by canoeman canoeman
I bought an almost new Wavesport X this weekend at the NOC sale. It has been fully converted to a C-1 with the Dagger pedestal/insert. I am relatively new to C boating and usually paddle a Superfly. I like doing intermediate tricks like enders and 360s. I would welcome any opinions about the X and its strong and weak points as a C-1. How is it for downriver versus play? How will it work for class III-IV creeks? Any suggestions for outfitting modifications? I normally weigh about 160 orn 165. Thanks for any advice you can give, Harrison
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 8:52 AM
Well....
by PAC PAC
The X is a good boat for all matter of paddling. However, it does have some limitations - as they all do (no boat great at everything - My $.02).
The factory design is better at big water - the bigger the better. At lower water it does not play well. It doesn't stern squirt and likes to pearl on you in a hole.
What I've done (others I have talked to agree / done something simular) is squash the sucker. Taken some volume out the front and lots out of the stern. This adds rocker and it now front surfs and back surfs quite nicely. It's still hard to squirt and hold on end and I'm going to smash the bow more to see if I can get it to bow stall for me.
I've paddled my X on II-V as factory and up to IV now that its been squashed. I like it and have held onto it.
Personally, I suggest you step on it. Mine is crosslink so taking a heat gun to it took some time. Email me if you want particulars or more info. Good luck, Enjoy, and CU
PAC
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 9:58 AM
Wary of squashing
by canoeman canoeman
I will probably paddle it as is for a while to get used to it. Not much big water here in Western North Carolina so I will hope to try some creeks in it. Does the bow surface well on larger drops? By pearling, you mean the bow dives when surfing smaller waves, right?
I am interested in how you squash the bow and stern in case I decide to do that later. Mine is super linear. Would squashing it make it more or less marketable as a kayak? I may just paddle it while as is then trade it for a Big EZ later. Thanks, Harrison
My e-mail is jhmetz@earthlink.net.
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 10:14 AM
Fear not the squash!
by Scott B.
If you're careful, it can be nearly invisible and make your boat more enjoyable. Also, you can always un-squash it. Here's how I did it -
1. pull out the appropriate wall and scribe on that the new profile you want that end to have.
2. carefully cut the wall along that line - use a coping saw, band saw, or a cross cut saw (if your curve is gentle enough) - reserve this piece for later un-squashing
3. gently heat your boat - it can be done with hot water (boiling or near it), air, or a flame (ie propane torch). I use an old hot-air popcorn popper (not as hot as a heat gun) from the inside (draping a towel over the opening to trap the heat). [I was just thinking a towel on the desired surface, soaked with very hot water would be a good way to localize the heat] With air or a torch, be very careful; if the plastic gets noticeably more shiny, STOP, you're getting close to melting it.
4. Carefully squash the boat - you may want a jig of some sort to preserve existing shape / create the new shape. Some folks park a car on the boat... Keep your boat compressed and let it slowly cool - the longer it takes to cool, the longer it will hold the shape. Compress the boat beyond the desired profile.
5. reinsert the wall - it should be a tight fit now
6. go play
7. Want your volume back? Pull out the wall and glue/tape the piece you cut out and reinsert
I did this with the bow of a Whiplash and found that it would hold it's shape for nearly a year at a time and could be puffed up/squashed down pretty easily.
However, you'll probably want to run it "as is" for a while before applying the squeeze.
Have fun!
Scott
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 12:02 PM
Thoughts on the "X", squashing, and creekin'
by KNeal
In my opinion, the "X" makes a nice river runnin' c-1 and plays pretty well (it's fairly wide, stable and roomy to kneel in). Back when the boat was new on the market, it was radical BECAUSE of its low volume ends. I guess we really like the flat squirty ends now-a-days.
I flattened the back deck of my Atom and have enjoyed the results, though when running steeper drops and waterfalls (up to 15 feet), I get back-endered a whole lot more. The "X" would not be a good choice for creekin' since the ends would dive very easily and, without significant volume, not have good resurfacing characteristics. However, I will defer to the expert comments that PAC-"has anybody seen my wallet today?" and Bernie may have on good creekin' c-1's.
KNeal
Posted on Oct 22, 2002, 9:16 AM
speakin' of creekin' (Rock-It Q)
by Scott B.
Anybody have any opinion on the Prijon Rock-It? Picked up a hull pretty cheap at the GAF. Not looking to go running real steep stuff, just wanted something comfortable for the Chattooga (sect III or more...) and mild creeks (ie Big Laurel).
Any opinions as to trim - level? bow up? Any idea how it will handle for the larger paddler (220#)?
Scott
Posted on Oct 22, 2002, 10:30 AM
by canoeman canoeman
I bought an almost new Wavesport X this weekend at the NOC sale. It has been fully converted to a C-1 with the Dagger pedestal/insert. I am relatively new to C boating and usually paddle a Superfly. I like doing intermediate tricks like enders and 360s. I would welcome any opinions about the X and its strong and weak points as a C-1. How is it for downriver versus play? How will it work for class III-IV creeks? Any suggestions for outfitting modifications? I normally weigh about 160 orn 165. Thanks for any advice you can give, Harrison
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 8:52 AM
Well....
by PAC PAC
The X is a good boat for all matter of paddling. However, it does have some limitations - as they all do (no boat great at everything - My $.02).
The factory design is better at big water - the bigger the better. At lower water it does not play well. It doesn't stern squirt and likes to pearl on you in a hole.
What I've done (others I have talked to agree / done something simular) is squash the sucker. Taken some volume out the front and lots out of the stern. This adds rocker and it now front surfs and back surfs quite nicely. It's still hard to squirt and hold on end and I'm going to smash the bow more to see if I can get it to bow stall for me.
I've paddled my X on II-V as factory and up to IV now that its been squashed. I like it and have held onto it.
Personally, I suggest you step on it. Mine is crosslink so taking a heat gun to it took some time. Email me if you want particulars or more info. Good luck, Enjoy, and CU
PAC
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 9:58 AM
Wary of squashing
by canoeman canoeman
I will probably paddle it as is for a while to get used to it. Not much big water here in Western North Carolina so I will hope to try some creeks in it. Does the bow surface well on larger drops? By pearling, you mean the bow dives when surfing smaller waves, right?
I am interested in how you squash the bow and stern in case I decide to do that later. Mine is super linear. Would squashing it make it more or less marketable as a kayak? I may just paddle it while as is then trade it for a Big EZ later. Thanks, Harrison
My e-mail is jhmetz@earthlink.net.
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 10:14 AM
Fear not the squash!
by Scott B.
If you're careful, it can be nearly invisible and make your boat more enjoyable. Also, you can always un-squash it. Here's how I did it -
1. pull out the appropriate wall and scribe on that the new profile you want that end to have.
2. carefully cut the wall along that line - use a coping saw, band saw, or a cross cut saw (if your curve is gentle enough) - reserve this piece for later un-squashing
3. gently heat your boat - it can be done with hot water (boiling or near it), air, or a flame (ie propane torch). I use an old hot-air popcorn popper (not as hot as a heat gun) from the inside (draping a towel over the opening to trap the heat). [I was just thinking a towel on the desired surface, soaked with very hot water would be a good way to localize the heat] With air or a torch, be very careful; if the plastic gets noticeably more shiny, STOP, you're getting close to melting it.
4. Carefully squash the boat - you may want a jig of some sort to preserve existing shape / create the new shape. Some folks park a car on the boat... Keep your boat compressed and let it slowly cool - the longer it takes to cool, the longer it will hold the shape. Compress the boat beyond the desired profile.
5. reinsert the wall - it should be a tight fit now
6. go play
7. Want your volume back? Pull out the wall and glue/tape the piece you cut out and reinsert
I did this with the bow of a Whiplash and found that it would hold it's shape for nearly a year at a time and could be puffed up/squashed down pretty easily.
However, you'll probably want to run it "as is" for a while before applying the squeeze.
Have fun!
Scott
Posted on Oct 21, 2002, 12:02 PM
Thoughts on the "X", squashing, and creekin'
by KNeal
In my opinion, the "X" makes a nice river runnin' c-1 and plays pretty well (it's fairly wide, stable and roomy to kneel in). Back when the boat was new on the market, it was radical BECAUSE of its low volume ends. I guess we really like the flat squirty ends now-a-days.
I flattened the back deck of my Atom and have enjoyed the results, though when running steeper drops and waterfalls (up to 15 feet), I get back-endered a whole lot more. The "X" would not be a good choice for creekin' since the ends would dive very easily and, without significant volume, not have good resurfacing characteristics. However, I will defer to the expert comments that PAC-"has anybody seen my wallet today?" and Bernie may have on good creekin' c-1's.
KNeal
Posted on Oct 22, 2002, 9:16 AM
speakin' of creekin' (Rock-It Q)
by Scott B.
Anybody have any opinion on the Prijon Rock-It? Picked up a hull pretty cheap at the GAF. Not looking to go running real steep stuff, just wanted something comfortable for the Chattooga (sect III or more...) and mild creeks (ie Big Laurel).
Any opinions as to trim - level? bow up? Any idea how it will handle for the larger paddler (220#)?
Scott
Posted on Oct 22, 2002, 10:30 AM