C-Forum

I am curious about what differant paddles are in use. I have used everything from Illiad and Norses to Perceptions and custom wood paddles. I presently use a 59 1/2 inch Bailey Johnson wood paddle and a blade that he designed for himself. THe blade has radically sloped shoulders leaving a more narrow top. Bailey thinks this puts less stress on our limbs. Initally I felt like I had less paddle, but after adapting a little, I liked it so much I had Bailey bulid me one. As far as length is concerned. I like a longer paddle for the open boat and a 58" old Perception for my GTX c boat. Also. I started using wax for a better grip.
Regards,
Chuck/Tennessee

Right now I look for three things in a paddle:
1) light weight (yet still durable)
2) good catch (but not TOO much so it wrenches the shoulder)
3) smooth feeling in the water

My preferred configuration being 54", straight shaft, spoon (curved) blade (I'm 5'9" and primarily paddle decked boats (hop in an OC2 once or twice a year, as well as guiding rafts)

I started out with a borrowed Werner. It wasn't a spoon blade, but I really liked it as it was light. Once I compared it to a curved blade, though, I never went back....

My "old favorite" is a Schlegel FGC spoon-carbon blade with an aluminum insert, carbon shaft. REALLY light, great feel, and it lasted from 1995 to last year . I had to repair it a bit (beef up the edges and wrap the shaft near the T grip where it started to split), but it survived paddling all over the Northeast, and numerous Hudson Gorge trips.

After that I tried a Waterstick...(one of the earlier designs)-GREAT catch, but it was heavier than i thought it would be (I bought it for creeking...heavy duty shaft). Did NOT feel smooth in the water too me, but that's just me....

Echo-again, older design-NICE blade (again a spoon or curved blade), great feeling in the water, but the blade size was a bit small (the blades are now bigger I believe)

Mitchell-GREAT feeling in the water, good catch, my only complaint is the weight (wood shaft / carbon blade). No, it isn't THAT heavy, especially when compared to my Illiad or Norse paddles I use for guiding rafts, but compared to my Schlegel it's at least 50% heavier....

Climax-I've got one of Maxwell's crankshaft paddles. Bomber paddle, weighs about the same as the mitchell. I'm still not completely sold on the crankshaft idea, and prefer straight shafts, but I do like using it occasionally as it is a nice paddle with good catch and feeling in the water.

Rough Stuff-I JUST got this one, and it's looking really sweet right now, though all I've paddled with it is the Blackwater, so it's not a perfect comparison for what I normally paddle. GREAT catch, slices through the water for underwater recovery strokes (cross strokes, etc...) VERY well, perhaps the best I've seen. Weighs less then the Schlegel currently does, though I think the Schlegel weighed less originally. I'm not sure it's as "smooth" as the other blades, but I'm not sure yet-it's a bit more "square" than the usual "rectangular" paddle (e.g. a bit wider but not quite as long), so it may just take some getting used to. We'll C!

I still have all my old paddles in case anyone wants to try one (or two). Primarily they get used now when I'm infecting folks with the C1 " bug"

wow, great list adam. this site is so good for hearing about new equiptment. ill add some stuff . . .

i currently use a galasport M3. it is the lightest paddle ever! it weighs less than a pound!! (410 grams) i really like the blade a lot too. it's definitely a step up from my old mitchell carbon. i love having the oversize, hollow carbon T-grip. maybe if im rich some day i'll get one for creeking. for now im using my old mitchell carbon "no longer steel tip, instead duct tape tip" paddle.
later
Alden

Here are features I have come to appreciate :

* spoon blade - the extra catch is nice; there is a perceptible difference when loading the back face (slightly less power) and when slicing through the water (just feels different) - overall a plus

* wooden shafts - for a long time I did not believe that a wooden shaft would be as strong as a composite shaft. However, for the last two years I've paddled almost exclusively with wooden shafts and haven't broken a one and I like the flex. Wood is warm on the hands in winter and easy on the eyes. Come to think of it, all of the paddles I've broken have been composite or aluminum...

* big grips - a nice big fat T-grip just suits me better than the itty bitty grips in most sticks (ie. the old Perception and most Werners) Wood is good - sand off the slick polyurethane and keep oil on it ( not so much as to make it slippery), the grain makes for a more secure grip. Ric Taylor advocates a grip about the size of a bar of soap - I'm going to try that out some day.

* wooden blades - the buoyancy is nice, it can add quite a boost to a brace or roll. I like the durability of a glass/carbon over wood blade. Aluminum tips have an initial appeal, but mushroom and can split the tip. I've been impressed with the wear on the edge of a Grey Owl paddle I have and it is just epoxy(?).

* weight - light weight is nice, but for some reason, I can't get past a basic impression that something very light cannot be very strong.

My $.03 (adjusted for inflation) -

Scott

For playing I like curved dihedral blades like the Galasport Demon and not too stiff shaft for preserve the shoulders. The Demon is my favourite rodeo paddle. Also the Pollert is ok but is not so strong.

For river running and creeking I like wooden shaft. The Mitchell premium curved is the best I tried untill now. The rope edges blade is extra strong.

For Open Boat I prefere longer and wider blades.

I think a weigth about 800 gr. is still ok.

For white water I prefere strait shaft

For flat water I like traditional style paddles with long narrow flat blades, but also like short bent shaft ones. Theese are more performing, but the first are smoother and friendly in the manouvres.