C-Forum

well, ok, not for racing. for slalom racing they are bad. but . . .

for creeking they are awesome! i am 6' tall and used to use a 60" paddle. still do for racing. but then i got hold of a 55" paddle, took it creeking, and I'm hooked for life.

i have found that the short paddle is MUCH easier to get from a crossbow to an onside stroke, which is great when you're under pressure on the river. it's just much easier to manuver, much less cumbersome, and it makes doing draws and stuff a lot easier on your body because your shoulder is in such a better position.

spring is coming fast . . .
Alden

Alden-

I am no creeker, but when I use paddles that much shorter I find myself "reaching" for the water. That is, I go to plant the paddle and there is nothing there, so I feel off-balance as I lean and try to find water to grab. This is especially true on steeper stuff (although my steep is much less than yours).

Hey- are you training for the team trials next month? http://www.daveyhearn.com/Whitewater%20 ... ifying.htm
I will be cheering for you.

Jim

hey jim
i have been training. have you been paddling in CT at all? hopefully the farmington is open. you going to be at the salmon race? if so, see ya there.

interesting about the short paddle thing. guess it's a case of whatever works best.

ill be down in CT in a few weeks, following the salmon. maybe some of us slalom guys can hit the hubbard if it's running.
later
Alden

I've got a question for you guys & gals...

I still need to make the purchase of a new paddle for my C-1. Is it better to err on the shorter side for "learning with" or should I go with the longer for leverage, etc. ?

I paddled a 59" in my OC1 and loved it...now I am looking at a 54" and a 52". I have had an off-side shoulder dislocation several years ago that has not bothered me much. I know that the actual paddle lengths, shafts + blades, all vary with each manufacturer... I guess I am asking what would be the disadvantages, if any, that would come from a shorter paddle and that I could not get used to with time.

Thanks for your input!
Anita

Anita,

When you say you had an offside dislocation, I'm guessing you mean on your t-grip arm? If so, I would err on the side of a shorter paddle, a long paddle will expose that shoulder to a greater chance of re-dislocation.

That said, I think a 52" paddle will be too short for you unless you have a super low seat and are very short!

The best advice to protect your shoulder is to strengthen it, and when paddling, try to keep your t-grip elbow down and close to your body whenever you can. Being thrown around in a big hole or getting windowshaded on a very fast wave are good examples. High braces are definately right out, but luckily, they aren't as useful to c1er's as kayakers!

Judd

anita,
how tall are you and how tall is the seat in your boat?
Alden

Alden-

I will be at the Salmon and there will be a beer in my cooler for you.

Why will you be around Connecticut? Are you taking the semester off?

I have to think about the Hubbard. I have not done it and I just don't have the enthusiasm (nerve) for the steep stuff any more. However, I am in my best-ever paddling shape, so you have me curious. Maybe...

Jim

I'm using a shorter paddle than ever and am very happy with it. An oft posted strategy here is to get a cheap paddle (like a Mohawk) and gradually cut it down until you find the right length - I'd venture to suggest that you cut it one increment beyond what feels "right" so you know for sure where to cut your "real" stick.

Judd & Alden,

I am 6' tall with broad shoulders and long arms. My seat height is 6.5" and the distance from my seat to the top of my shoulder is about 26". I would not exactly say that I am short, nor is my saddle particularly low!

Yes, my dislocated shoulder is that of my t-grip arm. I actively keep it limber with stretches in addition to work-outs, not including my beloved paddling. Fortunately the shoulder has not bothered me and it is the least of all of my sports injuries, but I am very aware of the possibility. I think I instinctively keep it somewhat tucked when I am paddling.

I am currently paddling a 54" Mohawk and it seems okay. I was considering buying a 52", practicing with each, then measuring the shaft, etc. when going to have one made. I am looking at a couple of different ones, all of which include a wooden shaft. Still haven't decided on whether or not to get a carbon blade this time. I wanted to choose one that would be forgiving in the learning sense, but also in terms of my shoulder.

When I first started to C-1, I immediately noticed the differences in using a shorter paddle, both good and bad. Most notably was that it was incredibly easier to make quicker cross strokes (which agreably also comes from the boat), and it seemed easier to recover out of the water altogether. However I did notice the loss of leverage (which I know I should not be relying on) in rolling the boat...and I also noticed the sensation of grabbing air when I would try to high brace, albeit too late.
But obviously that is something I will get used to...

Would I be putting myself at any undue disadvantage if I went for a shorter paddle? Keep in mind that I plan on doing just about everything in addition to river running....playboating, creeking, etc. I want it all!

Thanks again for your input,
Anita

Personally I think you will find a 52" paddle too short. But that said, there's tons of variance in personal preference for paddle length, so you might love it! Chopping down a cheap paddle is definately a good idea.

As far as paddle material, I find that wood is harder on my joints than a fibreglass shaft, and especially my galasport demon. The demon has to be the flexiest paddle I have ever seen! Obviously a carbon paddle will be very stiff. Just like everything else, demo demo demo! In addition to length and flex, there's different blade shapes, shaft sizes, t-grip sizes, the list just keeps going on

Judd

Anita:

Regarding "dislocated shoulder... I actively keep it limber with stretches". Be considerate that flexibility will decrease the stability of the shoulder. That is, the shoulder compensates for an unstable (shallow) joint by relying on muscles (the rotator cuff) to prevent dislocation / subluxation. One strategy to prevent recurrent dislocations is to allow, or induce, some tightening up of those muscles.

Summary: consider getting a medical evaluation of your shoulder. Flexibility os good in general, but in some cases (possibly yours?) flexibility should be avoided.

Good luck,

Jim

the t-grip shoulder thing has been dogging me too, Anita. for a long time i tried to be a tough guy, but finally this winter I went into physical therapy for it, and it is really paying off so far i think. just trying to get it strong, all those tiny little shoulder muscles. it's amazing how it takes almost no weight to get your shoulder tired on those excercises.

well, sounds like it aint bothering you too much, that's excellent. take care
Alden

Alden, I use a 54" and am perhaps 5'9" or so and have perhaps a 5" pedestal. I'm not sure what length I'm 'supposed' to use, but I used a much longer paddle for a while in New Zealand and definatly prefer the shorter one. That said...I've never even touched a slalom boat...but it sure is great for creekin'
Will

Okay...new question.

I am finding that the blade of my paddle is rubbing against the hull of my boat a little...which is aggravated by the new presence of my screw-heads on the water line. The screws are my anchors for my knee and thigh straps, etc.

Is this something I should be overly concerned about other than overall being annoying? It is not weighing on me too heavily right now with a $15 paddle, but once I get my new paddle it will!

Will this "go away" as I get better? This was mainly happening while I was doing a lot of playboating. I can remember hitting the hull when I was learning in my OC1...I can hope to assume that it will get better in my C1?

Thanks!
Anita

Hey, the paddle against the side of your boat thing will get better with practice. One thing that may help save yer paddle (cause hitting the side of your boat will definatly ruin it) is to glue some thin minicell foam over the head of the screw. Bernie told me that trick, and I havn't tried it but I'm sure it would work well. Just glue it over the bolt and sand it down so it runs flush with the boat.
Will
P.S. Don't get a Werner Bandit fiberglass blade or you'll ruin it by hitting it on the side of your boat!