C-Forum

OK. I was in my X. I rode up a wave below Cucumber on the LY. I leaned into the wave, ie: downstream. Everything was cool on the way up the face, but when I hit the top (or perhaps a tiny distance down the other side) I immediately went scouting for trout. This was a mildy breaking wave, not a whole lot of white stuff at the top, but some. Undaunted by the reality of physics, I paddled upstream, peeled out and tried it again with, yep, the same dang result. Did I just over-compensate with my lean? Which way do you lean as you crest a large-ish wave?
This may sound obvious and rather stoopid, but I can't seem to figure out what was happening at that moment. Anyone have ideas?
Dave P.

As you crest the wave (assuming you're washing off) let the boat come back under you (less downstream lean) otherwise the boat is at the crest, you're leaning, and WHUMP your talkin' to da fishes (I hope you said "hi" for me!). If the backside of the wave is steep you might even appear to lean upstream from shore, but what you're really doing is keeping the boat balanced under you (or at least that's how I think of it).

Otherwise, just have a wicked low brace as you crest that wave

What Adam said, and: I always seem to find myself reaching out with the paddle as I'm coming up the wave and taking a big scoop from the crest. So, as I come down the other side I'm stroking hard. Work it for a while, you'll get it.

I've found a power stroke makes a pretty effective brace, so just keep paddling, that'll probably only work if you're not reaching forward with your torso for the stroke (only torso twist, not reaching forward)