Page 1 of 1
Double pump
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 3:22 am
by mshelton
I've started to mess with doing flatwater tricks and I see the kayakers doing double pumps to get themselves in the bow-stall position or to initiate a cartwheel. In a C1 is the move basiclly the same or is there a better way of going about it?
Trying it I can get it somewhat but with the higher center of gravity it seems kinda difficult to get the boat on it's side edge as far as it looks like it needs to be.
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 7:00 am
by wayne
I do it just like I would in a kayak but I do not use as much edge as I would in a kayak as I have the leaverage. The other way to do it is do a off side bow draw and edge your boat into it, next thing you know you on your nose.
Wayne
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 2:42 pm
by Guest
'tis the same in a kayak as in a C1. Just remember to keep your weight over your boat and off yer paddle, and lead with your head. Your head should be a head of your boat at all times. This is especially important when cleaning the stern, or bow for that matter.
Head and shoulders
Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 6:28 pm
by Guest
Yeah, the head and the shoulders need to lead. By this, I mean the shoulders should be fully rotated in the direction you want the boat to go. You can get your shoulders rotated to be parallel to the length of the boat. Get some forward speed up, rotate to the offside, take a lifting sweep to raise the bow, rotate to the onside, take a lifting sweep to raise the stern. The bow will bury under the momentum of the the boat. Ride the boat up above the bow like a pole vaulter. Boat tilt should come from the hips and knees, so you can keep your weight above the bouyancy of the boat.
Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 10:39 pm
by Kevin
same as a kayak but once you start getting it vertical usually we flop over cause poepl give to much angle, as can give less casue of the levarge difference. The best is to ask for tips when your on the river! and soon with practice you'll be sitting in a bow stall for hours.
I have managed to be albe to pump in a bow stall, but can't time it to flatwater loop, and about 1/10 tries i can throw my stern in like a arial backstab.
Anyone ever seen a c1er flatwater loop?
Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:44 am
by Drew W.
Kevin wrote:same as a kayak but once you start getting it vertical usually we flop over cause poepl give to much angle, as can give less casue of the levarge difference. The best is to ask for tips when your on the river! and soon with practice you'll be sitting in a bow stall for hours.
I have managed to be albe to pump in a bow stall, but can't time it to flatwater loop, and about 1/10 tries i can throw my stern in like a arial backstab.
Anyone ever seen a c1er flatwater loop?
nope, but I know it can be done 'cause a a friend of mine up in MD is friends with one of the team fluid c-1ers (seth something) who can do it
My idea and new video
Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:44 pm
by Marko
HI
We are curerntly working on c-1 instructional video. So i have given this plenty of thought.
I think best way to learn the cartwheel is to learn it my starting on the flat 'clean lean'. You can check this from many instructional videos.
Idea is simple start with spinning the boat on flat and then try to elevate ends slowly. Help the rotation a bit with the paddle in needed on every other end. It is pretty hard to get your body to lead the moves, but once you get it figured out it will be right for any wheeling. Train in both direction and be accurate about the edge transition. .... too much will stop the rotation and too little is going to take back to flat spins.
Once you got the leading you can learn the douple pump easy. start with moderate speed an and stroke the bow up in kayaker way but keep the body over the boat. Lean nicely forward and lead with oyur body. Keeping only a slight touch on the water will keep your powering from the hips and not from hands.
Try to keep your angles low for a start (45 deg.)
- 1. st Common mistake is not to lead to move and fall on your head. (comes often if you learn from just rocking the boat)
- 2. nd is if you learn from the crosbow there is extra 90 deg. rotation that must be cleared of after first end by dropping edge bit early n second end. It is harder to go from one wheel to endless wheeling by this method.
... a small boat will help you a bit in the begining. A large volume stern might help a bit with backend rotation... also take care that your seat is in right place. Most kayak conversion have the seat too far back.
I learned to clean wheel at 97' with Riot 007 and Glide. And i was pretty fast getting endless wheeling after that. WB is great wheeling boat and can make those ends really fast ... it is more of just matter of staying forward than matter of power to keep on wheeling.
just my 2 cents
MArko
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 1:34 am
by Mike W.
Hey Marshall, I thought about this thread last night while playing on flatwater in my Acrobat. You don't need to double pump if you get a real slicey boat
Just tilt over to your on-side & do a smash stroke. Presto! you're up on the bow. Now you have some choices. Either balance in the stall, initiate spin (bow screw?), or go for cartwheels
You can get more creative, but I've listed the extent of my current abilities.
It's much easier to do this stuff with a squirt boat. Also the metal-flakes look neat under the lights of the boat ramp
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 7:17 am
by mshelton
You left out my favorite choice after getting the bow under; the stern over face squit into the head stall. Awesome move guys.
Happy New Year!!!!!
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:05 pm
by Mike W.
"stern over face squit into the head stall" That is one move that's easier in plastic. It's possible in glass though (if you don't believe it I can demonstrate
) I've found that the long, slicey boats are more stable on end than the typical plastic play-boats.