Paddle grip installation
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Paddle grip installation
Whats the best way to cut a kevlar glass shaft; I have a 96 tooth mitre saw, is a hack saw better?
bond the grip
and protect the wood grip?
Bill
bond the grip
and protect the wood grip?
Bill
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- C Maven
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I've used a hacksaw successfully but others maybe more knowledgeable then I with paddle shafts.
Brian
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- sbroam
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I think you'd be better off bringing that paddle and a couple of those Wheelboys down to my "workshop" here in Columbia
I'd cut the shaft with a hack saw, secure the t-grip with epoxy, and if the grip is bare wood, just teak oil it. Some folks polyurethane the wood, but I find that slick.
Scott
I'd cut the shaft with a hack saw, secure the t-grip with epoxy, and if the grip is bare wood, just teak oil it. Some folks polyurethane the wood, but I find that slick.
Scott
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http://picasaweb.google.com/scott.broam/CanoeOutfitting
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follow up...
I concur on the hack saw, miter box, clamp, teak oil and epoxy! You can poly the wood but plan on having "Sex Wax" around to help hang on to it. I use "Sex Wax" on both the grip and shaft when I'm getting wet (darn that sounds exciting!!!!!).
I'll also suggest putting a small dowel of mini-cell in the shaft close to the grip. This should reduce epoxy running down the shaft - if left to dry standing up on the blade. This epoxy run can lead to a strange sound later in life as the "drip run" loosens and whacks the inside of the shaft as you paddle - most annoying!
It also adds to shaft bouncy and reduces the likely hood of the grip catching on a submerged object - not that you'll be letting go of it on the river of course.
Just two little suggestions from lessons learned during my life!
Paul C.
I'll also suggest putting a small dowel of mini-cell in the shaft close to the grip. This should reduce epoxy running down the shaft - if left to dry standing up on the blade. This epoxy run can lead to a strange sound later in life as the "drip run" loosens and whacks the inside of the shaft as you paddle - most annoying!
It also adds to shaft bouncy and reduces the likely hood of the grip catching on a submerged object - not that you'll be letting go of it on the river of course.
Just two little suggestions from lessons learned during my life!
Paul C.
Paul C.
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- sbroam
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The last time I epoxied a grip to a composite shaft, I stood it upside down, on the grip while the epoxy cured - no drips down the inside of the shaft!
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Paddle Cutting
Thanks for all the info-
Scott,
I'm not sure I can wait to get to your shop but fortunately, I have about 14 working paddles, I just wanted to try out the new one - I'll take some pics of it too.
Sorry to switch topics-
Scott you are going to love the wheelboy- As you can do more what it is designed to do than I can. The only thing I can do in it is roll it- I have paddled a C1 since your the 10-15 min in your score in NOV, and I havent tried to roll an open boat all winter, and I got 7 out of 9 rolls, some in moving water.
I think that sometimes when catching an eddy you lean back into the stern to help pop in. I also eddied maybe 50-60 degrees instead of 45. The boat really likes to be active. I still have a lot of learning to do.
I'll be happy to meet you with some boats. I might have my son with me, as Anne (my wife) is working every weekend in April and May.
Bill
Scott,
I'm not sure I can wait to get to your shop but fortunately, I have about 14 working paddles, I just wanted to try out the new one - I'll take some pics of it too.
Sorry to switch topics-
Scott you are going to love the wheelboy- As you can do more what it is designed to do than I can. The only thing I can do in it is roll it- I have paddled a C1 since your the 10-15 min in your score in NOV, and I havent tried to roll an open boat all winter, and I got 7 out of 9 rolls, some in moving water.
I think that sometimes when catching an eddy you lean back into the stern to help pop in. I also eddied maybe 50-60 degrees instead of 45. The boat really likes to be active. I still have a lot of learning to do.
I'll be happy to meet you with some boats. I might have my son with me, as Anne (my wife) is working every weekend in April and May.
Bill
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Canada
Hi Allan,
I probably wont go all the way into Canada, though we'll see. My wife had a crazy idea that I fly to Toronto, or other city which USair flies to with a boat. Which seems kinda cool.
I will be making two 10 plus hours trips North this year. One is in the fall to WI, when the fatboys are in.
Where in Canada do you live? I don't foresee making it past WI (west wise)
Bill
I probably wont go all the way into Canada, though we'll see. My wife had a crazy idea that I fly to Toronto, or other city which USair flies to with a boat. Which seems kinda cool.
I will be making two 10 plus hours trips North this year. One is in the fall to WI, when the fatboys are in.
Where in Canada do you live? I don't foresee making it past WI (west wise)
Bill
I'm on the ottawa river all summer,
and then in the toronto area the rest of the season.
I'd be willing to bet you might have some interested parties up here on the ottawa... mind you, we are all poor raft guides...
maybe I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed for a cdn dealer... let us know if you're coming north though!!
cheers,
-allan
and then in the toronto area the rest of the season.
I'd be willing to bet you might have some interested parties up here on the ottawa... mind you, we are all poor raft guides...
maybe I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed for a cdn dealer... let us know if you're coming north though!!
cheers,
-allan
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a note on grip installation
so, i have a new Gala and the point at where im instanlling the Grip the shaft has a slight conicular shape to it, how do i get around the grip moving either forward or backwards? If it did, it would only be slight, however it would be nice to have it vertical. I am making a doweled grip, insteac of the spruce it comes with, and so i will be able to better gfit the exact shape. But I am stumbling on how to overcome the conical shape of the shaft.
thanks,
-Isaac
thanks,
-Isaac
Some thoughts...
Isaac
Based on what I took from your post this might help. Although my ability to explain it might be a bit of a stretch!
The better way (not the best since I’m sure there is a better one out there):
Get a piece of plastic pipe or cardboard tube (you can make one out of paper) that has the same diameter (inside diameter) as the largest part of the shaft that you will be working with to use as the “mold”.
Apply a release agent on the inside of the mold.
Then lay up (resin and cloth) as a half moon on one side on the inside of that mold (if that makes since) using pieces of glass cloth weave. Just like laying up a boat! Then let dry. If you are doing this with a large enough “mold” you can use both ends of it to cut down on work time.
Now pull the plug(s) from the mold. Cut and sand the insides of these two half moon shapes so that they fit around your grip as one solid ring.
Now the hard part – take those two half moon pieces and fit them into the paddle’s shaft by sanding and reworking them down to the inverse of the conical shape you require. Once done glue them into place making sure to rough up the interior of the paddle shaft. The exterior of the half moons will already roughed up due to the previous step…
Now fit the grip’s shaft into the paddle’s shaft, check and recheck set up then glue that together.
A second way which is uglier and should hold up under stress:
Line the inside of the paddle with mini-cell. Make sure to glue that into place then glue to that the grip along with the paddle shaft’s end.
The really quick butt ugly (poor pun) way:
Build a mini-cell dam close to the end of the grip (should be glued in too) and place duct tape (I had to get DT in here) at its end to block the dreaded shaft "dripage". Stand paddle upright and pour in resin to fill up around where the grip’s shaft will be. Install grip and turn upside down (resting on grip) to dry. Make sure to wipe of extra resin, tape around seam (holds grips position and reduces leakage. Then then make sure the grip is POSITIONED CORRECTLY - re-check a couple times while drying to make sure the wind, cat or kids didn't mess with it!
I’m also sure someone else as better ways of doing this too!
As always tape off areas your working with and take safety precautions related to your health and the ones you love – gloves respirator, ventilation, etc.
I'm no expert here so feel free to tell me thanks but no thanks! Also let us know how it works out and how you finally did it so we can learn ! Paul C.
Based on what I took from your post this might help. Although my ability to explain it might be a bit of a stretch!
The better way (not the best since I’m sure there is a better one out there):
Get a piece of plastic pipe or cardboard tube (you can make one out of paper) that has the same diameter (inside diameter) as the largest part of the shaft that you will be working with to use as the “mold”.
Apply a release agent on the inside of the mold.
Then lay up (resin and cloth) as a half moon on one side on the inside of that mold (if that makes since) using pieces of glass cloth weave. Just like laying up a boat! Then let dry. If you are doing this with a large enough “mold” you can use both ends of it to cut down on work time.
Now pull the plug(s) from the mold. Cut and sand the insides of these two half moon shapes so that they fit around your grip as one solid ring.
Now the hard part – take those two half moon pieces and fit them into the paddle’s shaft by sanding and reworking them down to the inverse of the conical shape you require. Once done glue them into place making sure to rough up the interior of the paddle shaft. The exterior of the half moons will already roughed up due to the previous step…
Now fit the grip’s shaft into the paddle’s shaft, check and recheck set up then glue that together.
A second way which is uglier and should hold up under stress:
Line the inside of the paddle with mini-cell. Make sure to glue that into place then glue to that the grip along with the paddle shaft’s end.
The really quick butt ugly (poor pun) way:
Build a mini-cell dam close to the end of the grip (should be glued in too) and place duct tape (I had to get DT in here) at its end to block the dreaded shaft "dripage". Stand paddle upright and pour in resin to fill up around where the grip’s shaft will be. Install grip and turn upside down (resting on grip) to dry. Make sure to wipe of extra resin, tape around seam (holds grips position and reduces leakage. Then then make sure the grip is POSITIONED CORRECTLY - re-check a couple times while drying to make sure the wind, cat or kids didn't mess with it!
I’m also sure someone else as better ways of doing this too!
As always tape off areas your working with and take safety precautions related to your health and the ones you love – gloves respirator, ventilation, etc.
I'm no expert here so feel free to tell me thanks but no thanks! Also let us know how it works out and how you finally did it so we can learn ! Paul C.
Paul C.
Cboats Moderator
Official TOG Member (Team Old Guy)!
Cboats Moderator
Official TOG Member (Team Old Guy)!