Shortening a WERNER carbon fiber paddle
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gotstarbucks
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Shortening a WERNER carbon fiber paddle
Anyone know how to go about doing this? It is the paddle with the yellow blade, black shaft and wooden handle. Thanks, Stephen
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Jan_dettmer
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That sounds like its the glas version. Try to get the wooden handle out. You might be able to rip it out using a heat gun. If that does not work, check if you can just shorten it the amount you want without the wood still being in the way.
If so, put tape around the shaft where you want to saw. Saw it off. Get handle out of the part of the shaft that came off (brute force works).
Then glue it in with epoxy. Put it on its handle to dry so that the epoxy really seals the seam and you won't have water in the shaft later.
Cheers, Jan
If so, put tape around the shaft where you want to saw. Saw it off. Get handle out of the part of the shaft that came off (brute force works).
Then glue it in with epoxy. Put it on its handle to dry so that the epoxy really seals the seam and you won't have water in the shaft later.
Cheers, Jan
Is there something like an expert kayaker?
http://www.bc-ww.com
http://www.bc-ww.com
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billcanoes
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Paddle length
Hi Janes,
I cut the shaft of the galasport with a electric miter saw. It worked awesome and was super fast. I also took advice from a simillar post below- I put some minicell in the shaft and put the paddle upside down to dry. I used Epoxy to set it.
I used a heat gun which discolored the wood some, and after chipping/scraping some epoxy off I was able to twist the old grip off.
Bill
__----____----_______Here are 3 replies I found helpful
Bill,
You can probably cut it just fine with the miter saw. If you can clamp the shaft into a miter box, it will help you make a straight cut..
As for the grip, I've always used a wooden grip, and put a short wood dowel into the grip. Then I glue the dowel into the shaft with epoxy.
F
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I concur on the hack saw, miter box, clamp, teak oil and epoxy! You can poly the wood but plan on having "Sex Wax" around to help hang on to it. I use "Sex Wax" on both the grip and shaft when I'm getting wet (darn that sounds exciting!!!!!).
I'll also suggest putting a small dowel of mini-cell in the shaft close to the grip. This should reduce epoxy running down the shaft - if left to dry standing up on the blade. This epoxy run can lead to a strange sound later in life as the "drip run" loosens and whacks the inside of the shaft as you paddle - most annoying!
It also adds to shaft bouncy and reduces the likely hood of the grip catching on a submerged object - not that you'll be letting go of it on the river of course.
Just two little suggestions from lessons learned during my life!
Paul C.
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The last time I epoxied a grip to a composite shaft, I stood it upside down, on the grip while the epoxy cured - no drips down the inside of the shaft!
_________________
http://bookwoman.net/scott/paddling.htm
I cut the shaft of the galasport with a electric miter saw. It worked awesome and was super fast. I also took advice from a simillar post below- I put some minicell in the shaft and put the paddle upside down to dry. I used Epoxy to set it.
I used a heat gun which discolored the wood some, and after chipping/scraping some epoxy off I was able to twist the old grip off.
Bill
__----____----_______Here are 3 replies I found helpful
Bill,
You can probably cut it just fine with the miter saw. If you can clamp the shaft into a miter box, it will help you make a straight cut..
As for the grip, I've always used a wooden grip, and put a short wood dowel into the grip. Then I glue the dowel into the shaft with epoxy.
F
-------
I concur on the hack saw, miter box, clamp, teak oil and epoxy! You can poly the wood but plan on having "Sex Wax" around to help hang on to it. I use "Sex Wax" on both the grip and shaft when I'm getting wet (darn that sounds exciting!!!!!).
I'll also suggest putting a small dowel of mini-cell in the shaft close to the grip. This should reduce epoxy running down the shaft - if left to dry standing up on the blade. This epoxy run can lead to a strange sound later in life as the "drip run" loosens and whacks the inside of the shaft as you paddle - most annoying!
It also adds to shaft bouncy and reduces the likely hood of the grip catching on a submerged object - not that you'll be letting go of it on the river of course.
Just two little suggestions from lessons learned during my life!
Paul C.
------
The last time I epoxied a grip to a composite shaft, I stood it upside down, on the grip while the epoxy cured - no drips down the inside of the shaft!
_________________
http://bookwoman.net/scott/paddling.htm
Did mine
I shortened two Werners, both with the black plastic t-grip.
I stood the paddle upside down in a can of mineral spirits over night, that loosened the the t-grip enough to work it out. Cutting the shaft is no problem. I put both of the handles back in with aquaseal, didn't bother with the brass pin. Been using them hard for five years, no problems.
I stood the paddle upside down in a can of mineral spirits over night, that loosened the the t-grip enough to work it out. Cutting the shaft is no problem. I put both of the handles back in with aquaseal, didn't bother with the brass pin. Been using them hard for five years, no problems.