C-Forum

I'm installing moveable saddles in an OC2 (Esquif VertigeX). The range of travel for the stern saddle will be too much for adjustable toe blocks, so I need sliding foot braces attached to the saddle.

How should I secure the braces to the saddle?

Also, for the front anchor of thigh straps for a moveable saddle - any ideas?

Thanks, P.

Hi Pat,

If you add an extension to your saddle you can attach the pegs as one piece, saddle extension pegs. Use anchorring strips for the saddle and also set anchorring strips up high for adj, thigh straps. The 26" anchorring strips are good but a little difficult to handle. I wish I had a helper when I put mine in.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I have the anchor strips for the saddles, and I'll get a helper.

For the foot braces, I'm with you on the foam extension behind the saddle, but then how do you attach them: A threaded bolt from brace-to-brace through the foam? Install wooden dowels and screw them on? Other?


For the thigh-strap anchors, what do you mean "also set anchoring strips up high"? I'm not worried about what goes on the side of the hull, I'm what to attach in front of the saddle between my knees.

Have you attched thigh straps to the same anchor strips that you used for the saddles? Northwater doesn't recomend it, because the saddle anchors aren't as robust as their 3-hole thigh-strap anchors.

Cheers, P.

regarding the footbraces, I have done this with dowels through the foam blocks, screws into the dowels. Predrill as the dowels might try to spin on you. the dowels themselves, or a similar size piece of pipe will make fast clean holes through that mini cell.

watch you don`t mount them too low, I didn`t account for the hull shape curving up for the stern saddle.

why the adjustable saddles? to switch between solo and tandem? light vs heavy bow paddlers?

why the adjustable saddles? to switch between solo and tandem? light vs heavy bow paddlers?

All that, for which really only the stern saddle needs to move much. But if I use it for solo tripping/camping, or even if I'm just soloing it on day run, it might be nice to just lift away the bow saddle.

Presumably your dowels have worked OK? I've seen ones where the screws went in badly and/or the wood rotted out.

P.

I set up an ME with a movable rear saddle - pictures are here :

http://bookwoman.net/scott/paddling/ME_Restoration/

The set up is more complete now, though there are changes I will make yet.

The saddle came out of a Viper I had and has a channel cut out of the bottom for the water to flow through - when the pedestal is in the forward (solo) position, this gap sits over the rearmost of the D-rings I have for bottom anchors.

The footbraces came attached from the factory (part of the a "Team Edge" set up), but I believe that the hardware is still available from Mohawk - see "rods w/washers" here :

https://www.mohawkcanoes.com/accessories.htm

I've also used stainless stell threaded rod before.

I'll need to take some pictures of the straps I've concocted for moving between the two positions.

I wrote this while working so it may be dishevelled.

I've got the 13" anchorring strip on my blast near the gunwale - I have a tandem boat so I wanted to install one set of strips for either stern of center paddling-

I am using the same anchoring strap for my thigh anchors as I am for the thigh straps. I think for a center position saddle I would think the 3 point 9.95 strip would be fine. I agree the foot pegs would need more movement than the thigh straps would, at least I would assume there wont be a huge movement in the saddle. (unlike my set up)
True, the anchorring strips are not as strong, but the Blast is pretty narrow and I didnt see a way to have separate anchors for center and stern positions that wouldnt get in the way of each other in the different positions.

I should have pics at http://groups.msn.com/BillCanoes/shoebox.msnw it might be in a different folder. I wish I had installed the top anchor higher, FYI it is about 4" from the gunwhale.

Mohawk sells a mounting kit for 6-8 and 9" saddles
http://www.mohawkcanoes.com/shopping%20pics/rods.JPG and the extension is pretty cheap from them too.

None the less- i think screwing the peg tracks to a dowel would also work.

I also inserted PVC into the saddle to keep the foam from compressing

I think Craig and Trevor also put additional pvc in their saddles for water transfer when rolling. I would add the extension before setting up the pvc saddle anchor points to ensure you dont have an extra obstacle to fight if you do move the saddle.

Thanks a lot guys!! It'll be great to have this info, not too mention the photos and links, once I start messing around with all this hardware.

Wouldn't you know, I'm receiving a package from Mohawk tomorrow - shoulda included the extension and rods! I'll try to find something similar locally. The foot braces will be the last thing I worry about (though good idea Bill about accounting for the added length of the extension). Scott, on your ME saddle it looks like you didn't need an extension for the foot braces?

Scott, thanks for the idea of having a gap in the bottom of the saddle for the rear attachment. Could complicate things if i feel the saddles also require Velcro to stay firm. And, aside from solo position, the rear position may have to adjust too, for me and my much lighter girlfriend.

These stern attachments on the bottom of the hull for the thigh straps I expect will be the biggest stumper.

Bill, I think my positions will be separated enough that I can use the 3-hole anchors. Hopefully the saddle anchors will work fine for you as thigh strap anchors, I haven't really looked them with that in mind, but I'm sure they're probably strong enough to be an option - let us know if you blow them out.

I assume you are you also using the bottom saddle-anchor straps to attach your thigh straps to the bottom?

P.

Yep, I'm using the hullanchors for both saddle and thigh straps- We'll see how it holds up. My rational is that the anchor itself offers an equal or larger contact area than a 2" dring anchor. The only difference is the fabric strength, and realistically it should be more than ample strength. That is my theory anyway.

I still havent fixed The nomad- well I tried plastic epoxy, but I dont have much faith in it. I bought a Dagger Saddle for it so I don't need to worry about taking it out- not that they aren't nice saddles, but....


Bill

the dowel system works fine for several years. once the dowels start to rot out, replace them with another $3 piece of dowel. The last few times I have thrown a quick coat of varathane on them.

For the record, I added an extension (~6") to the saddle and attached the footbraces with rods and nuts. I was able to just push/thread the bolts right through the foam.

I'll use that saddle for the bow position (toe cups would overlap with solo-position's knee pads) and the solo position, and I'll use adjustable toe cups for the stern position. Had to scoop out room on the underside of the bow/solo saddle for the thigh-strap d-rings that are the solo/stern anchors.

Bill, About thigh-strap attachments, you wrote

I wish I had installed the top anchor higher, FYI it is about 4" from the gunwhale.

4" inches from the top of the gunwale, or 4" below the inside of the gunwale? And you wish it was higher up, above your thigh?

My solo has it's ring about 5" below the top of the gunwale, right on the boat's centre line. Northwater recommends 5-6" below the top of the gunwale.

P.

The thigh straps are 4" from the bottom of the gunwale-

I repositioned the straps today, as I'm using the blast tomorrow, I moved my straps 3 slots towards my feet from where they had been.

On the river I only move the top portion of the strap and higher felt more secure- thankfully- I couldn't repositon them at the time- because the new positioning is better.

-I played with both ends today- they are actually now a little tighter than I like, but I didn't want to use the same ancor point for my saddle as for my thigh strap. The top connection is at the same point as before.


Bill