C-Forum

I just picked up a C1 yesterday that has lineage back to the Max. I am intersted in any info on the boat.... but more so I need some help in outfitting "machines" and/or mounting webbing straps in it to hold me down. I know how to do it in a plastic playboat but working with Kevlar is new to me. Any and info and help is greatly apprecieated.

Thanks

0.17hmr@gmail.com

Cman:

If you haven't already, check out the C-1 Race Boats section using the navigation button to the left. If the available info isn't sufficient in helping you identify your boat, you could either post photos on a web site and alert us in a follow-up message or offer to e-mail them upon request. There are several members of this board who could help with its identification.

Regarding outfitting, there is a lot of personal preference involved and you'll get as many solutions as people who give you answers.

One solution is to use minicell foam installed seam to seam perpendincular to the keel line to create bulkhead machines. Typically you can key the bulkhead into the bow wall to help secure it (i.e. cut out a hole or a groove in the bulkhead that matches the protruding portion of the wall). Because you'll probably be forcing the bulkhead back under the deck you'll need to glue it with some resin instead of contact cement. To better secure their thighs, some people extend the bulkhead out into the cockpit area with a second or even third section of minicell. If you do this, you'll need to glue the sections of minicell together using resin or possibly contact cement (if the minicell sections can be placed together without any movement). (NOTE: It is recomended that you de-skin minicell before gluing two buns together.) Typically minicell bulkheads result in bomber machines, but aren't flexible in adjusting to changes in paddlers or paddling apparel (the fit can only be changed permanently). In addition some paddlers find that they obstruct easy exit from the boat if you have to bail out (there is a reason why a minicell block between the knees is called a "death block.") (NOTE: A true "death block" is actually a removeable block of minicell, that keeps you locked in until you pull it out.).

The more popular alternative is to install thighstraps, because they are adjustable and easily released. Typically these use 2" webbing with either a quick release buckle (most common) or a velcro closure (less frequently used) that can be released when needed. You install two anchors between your thighs and one on each side (outside location varies - sometimes on deck or hull near the seam, others place it down on the hull - but typically further toward the stern than the inside anchors, sometimes back as far as the front edge of the seat). The most common anchor is made by fraying both ends of a 4-5" piece of 1/4" diameter rope, gluing the frayed ends down with resin, then applying 2-4 layers of cloth patches (typically kevlar saturated with resin) ontop of the ends to secure them to the original lay-up. Make sure that you sand thoroughly the area where you are going to attach the anchors; ideally you should sand enough to just expose the first layer of cloth - evident when the fibers begin to fuzz. Lay-up the rope and the cloth patches together in a single session for best adhesion. Sand any rough edges once the anchors have fully cured. Outfitters like REI sell webbing by the foot and various buckles. Velcro, if preferred, can usually be purchased in 2" widths at a fabric/sewing store (get the sew-in variety, not the sticky tape variety). The Home page of this web site has a link for John Sweet's web site, who stocks boat building supplies, including minicell, epoxy and vinylester resins, and other associated items. (NOTE: John's web site explains further about "deskinning" minicell.) In addition, to being a cost-effective supplier, John is a knowledgable boat builder and paddler who can offer further advice if needed (Sweet's Falls on the Gauley is named for him as he was the only boater to run it on the first canoe/kayak descent of the upper & lower Gauley).

There is a third method involving installing rigid aluminum machines, but I haven't seen it used for about 25 years.

I hope that this info gets you started.

John

Following is something I posted recently for bearboater. It may repeat some things John already posted above, but see what you think.

....Does your race boat already have glass hip brackets? Race boats are shallow, so that your hip joints may well be above the cockpit rim. Vertical brackets or supports keep your hips located and help prevent your butt from sliding sideways on the seat. There is a guy on C-boats who sells a wonderful bracket system, but I can't use it because my feet are size 14 and I can't risk anything impeding foot removal. If you don't have hip brackets, I can post instructions on how to glass them in.

I use knee wedges on the bottom of the boat to keep my knees from swimming around. Knee cups do not offer enough control, but cut-out bulkheads are too restrictive.

I believe you should end up so that there is some downward pressure on the tops of your thighs from the front deck, though you may have to add foam under the deck to achieve this. A lot of knee spread usually brings the upper-outer sides of the thighs in contact with the deck. This deck pressure helps a lot to keep you in control when you are hanging upside down. Otherwise your butt has more of a tendency to rise off the seat, and backward.

Try to add such features so that you don't have to run your thigh straps super-tight. This is not only uncomfortable, but makes the locations where the straps attach to the boat bottom more vulnerable to breakage. Depending on your dimensions, you may have to move the upper and/or lower strap mounting points. On my Zealot, the straps were already in the right place because Adam Clawson is not much shorter than I am, but on my Wide Ride, I had to move the lower strap attachment points forward. The straps should not go straight across your thighs, but should pass diagonally forward. That is, the attachments near the seam are somewhat back toward your hip, and the front attachments are forward toward your knees.

An additional note on knee straps.... It always seems a shame to me to buy a 22 pound race boat and then weigh it down with doubled-over straps and Velcro attachments. The more strap, the more water soak-up, the more weight.

When putting new straps in my Wide Ride, I used the lightest, "driest" densely woven Nylon webbing I could get, 2" width. Rather than doubling it over to attach it to the rope tie points, I wet both ends of each strap with Seamgripp, up about 1.5 inches from the end. Then I put a 1/4" brass grommet through the semi-hardened strap ends. The Seamgripp keeps the fabric from distorting.

Naturally this meant I had no foldback Velcro adjustment, so I had to pre-size each strap while sitting in the boat. Each strap is just short enough that I can adust tension with short lengths of polyester rope which attach the grommets to the rope tie points.

Polyester rope is better than Nylon because it does not stretch nearly as much when wet. I wish I could have found polyester webbing for the straps, or better yet, maybe polypropelene, though the latter might not end-lock with Seamgripp as well.