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Questions about minicell.

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:01 am
by ChrisKelly
Today we were making four saddles for our local club, using standard 22 minicell, which was white in color.

The guy who brouoght the foam from Kansas City said that the wholesaler had a "400" minicell. This '400" minicell is essentially twice as dense. We were discussing whether it would be good for saddles. Has anybody used it? If so what are your thoughts.

Regarding the white foam, we got it very cheap but it shows every seam, spilled glue mark etc. has anybody painted or colored foam? If so what worked or did not?

Thanks, Chris Kelly

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:30 am
by Mike W.
I haven't used it, but twice as dense may be a good idea for saddles. They won't compress as quickly. If they're too dense (stiff) to be comfortable, you could always make them 3/4" shorter than you need & glue a piece of 3/4" cushy foam on top. That would also hide the seams. The grey stuff shows seams too. If you spill glue or just want to hide the saw marks, hit it with a random orbital sander. I've found that makes my foam work look much better.

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:58 pm
by Bob P
(Now) Sweet Composites sells only 200-series Minicell, although in two grades. See Sweet Minicell Page. I've never seen 400 Minicell, but I'd be afraid of the extra weight.

But I'm lazy. :-?

Yeah, I was also thinking about the weight.

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:50 pm
by ChrisKelly
We did consider the concept of a two part saddle but I have always been satisfied with the usual "200" foam.

As to the white color, we will use the sander to clean them up but the white really does show the seams. Chris Kelly

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 5:45 pm
by Jim Michaud
Are you mounting the minicell layers on edge or horizontally? If you build your saddle with the layers laid horizontally you could always use one layer of black 200 minicell as the top layer. I often build my saddles this way using old ethafoam left over from the early eighties.

Another advantage of laying the minicell horizontally is that it's easy to make the bottom layers wider than the top layer. This will prevent the saddle from tipping over, especially if you're building a free floating saddle.

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 6:08 pm
by Mike W.
Isn't it interesting how boaters have different thoughts on outfitting. I agree that Jim's method of building a wider base is more sound structurally. I tend to make my bases more narrow so that I can get my feet closer together for comfort.

If I not such a computer imbicile,

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 3:33 am
by ChrisKelly
I could take and post pictures of the saddles.

We use the foam on end as follows:

We were making "Cliff's Fat butt Saddles", so named because of the construction. Using 3 1/2 inch wide foam we cut to form using a wood form. Then glue 2 cut sections and add a wing to each side(hence the "fat butt" name). We then cut, shape and sand.

The result is that the saddle is 7 inches wide at its front end and closer to a foot under your butt. Often we cut a hole right in the front where one may place one's nauglene bottle. Generally we run a thwart over the back of the saddle behind the paddler's back. I have tried 2 different methods of securing the saddles to the thwart. One was to drop a dowell through the thwart and into the saddle. After some time the movement of the saddle snapped off the screw holding the dowell in place. The other method is to place a small block of wood, maybe a 2 incher, on each side of the saddle secured to the bottom of the thwart. This has worked better.

We also usually go over the saddle with a heat gun. This makes the saddle look better and tends to remove or melt or camaflauge small defects in the cutting and shaping.

We are still considering whether or how to paint or color the white saddles. Chris Kelly

Chris Kelly

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 1:30 pm
by mshelton
This may be a dumb idea but wood stain might work well for painting the minicell. Thinking of how something that penetrates the material vs just a coat on the outside (paint) may have more durable results.

They even make it in some crazy colors now (blues, greens, purples and such...)

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:41 pm
by RodeoClown
This might be a silly question, but does it really matter how it looks? I mean, after all, you are putting your butt on it...

The biggest problem I have with white minicel is people asking me "what kind of foam is that" Seems that most people haven't seen the white stuff...

If it really matters, once you've got things shaped just right, I'd cover the whole works with some thin neoprene.

Jeremy

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:03 pm
by mshelton
RodeoClown wrote: I'd cover the whole works with some thin neoprene.Jeremy
Yeah, I've done this also for the reason of grip, neoprene clings to the bum better.

Oh, the appearance thing is just ego;

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:07 pm
by ChrisKelly
wanting one's work to look good. Also, there is the compulsive canoe outfitter in me who wants to know if I can sucessfully paint/stain minicell. CK

Jim, I must admit that I never thought of using the sheets of foam on their sides. You are certainly correct about being able to have a wider base that way.