C-Forum

What do folks recommend for "oiling" wood gunnels. What type of oil, or do you recommend sealing them with something else?

Thanks.

Watco brand oil. Just put a fresh dose on mine.

Is watco available about anywhere? Or Lowes???

Helly wrote:Is watco available about anywhere? Or Lowes???

Just about any hardware or paint store which probably includes Lowes. There are a lot of "flavors" in the Watco product line and I couldn't find one I liked for my new Spark last fall. So, I decided to use good old Linseed oil. I am happy with that choice so far. It looks nice and seems to be even more waterproof than the Watco I used on my old Rival. It is holding up well to the chlorinated pool water it has be subjected to the last few weeks since the rivers froze over.

Dave

Watco is good stuff, if you can't find it then any brand of "teak oil" is a good substitute. I'm not 100% on this, but one of the main constituents in teak oil is linseed oil (pretty thick), I think other ingredients may thin and aid in penetration. I've used all three (watco teak oil, other brand teak oil, linseed oil) with success, but straight linseed oil left the stickier finish.

When you all maintain your wood gunnels, do you have to be careful about not getting the oil onto the hull? Or does the oil and its additives not hurt royalex (or glass)?

Oil has never hurt any of my hulls.

A point brought up in a e-mail exchange recently is worth mentioning - if you are re-gunwaling (new verb) a boat, oil the side that will be in contact with the boat as that will be the only time to ever conveniently treat that side.

Another point about teak oil / watco oil - it smells better than straight up linseed oil!

I am using the (natural) finish Watco product. I can't find it locally so I mail order it. A quart will last a long long time. The last time I was out I tried linseed oil and just didn't like the way it worked as well.
One thing to remember with any one these products is to not just throw your rags in the trash as the can spontaniously combust.

the oil types and the combustible rags!! Especially to one who has accidentally 'ignited' her Detonator in the past!!

Since it survived, that is how it got named the Helenator!! hhaha!

I'll support the Watco. Works great--have used it on my Spark twice, and like the finish it provides.

Nate

Helly, thin down the linseed oil with paint thinner (about a 2 to 1 ratio). Best time to do it is on a hot summer day. The heat will allow the oil to penetrate deeper. Unfortunately, since we do not live in Australia, it may be a while before we have those conditions. So take it indoors and put it in a room with a space heater and crank it up. Apply the oil generously and let it set for a while. DO NOT IGNITE! Go back later and wipe off the excess. Repeat periodically.

That's the way I do it.

Terry

Just a warning about bringing the boat in and cranking up the heat. No, it is not the fumes I am worried about. Something much more explosive. . . .

If you have a spouse / significant other, and you are trying to save $$$ (for your next boat) by keeping the thermostat down. . . you do not want to be nearby when that spouse figures out that you are willing to turn up the heat for your boat, but not for her.

It was not pretty, so learn from my experience and save yourself lots of grief..

Yeah, Jim, I know what you mean. Sometimes it is really hard to keep from revealing where our true priorities lie. That's like taking a "sick" day off from work for paddling, but not taking one to stay home with your wife if she is sick.

Sounds like you need to buy your wife a nice set Patagonia Synchilla fleece for Christmas and keep that thermostat turned down.

T.P.

Jim et al,
Great comments on gunnel preservation. Jim's comments on the need for careful oiling and preservation of the most important item to allow him his boating is great advice. In the past, I have removed the gunnels for a tuning and then reattached them with new stainless screws. Greyed and mold blackened wood can be cleaned and bleached to a newer look with Clorox. Be sure to rinse it thoroughly afterward and dry it thoroughly as well. A light sanding can then be done to reprep the surface. Stain can be applied for a different look, if desired. For preservation, I have used Homer Formsby's Tung Oil with success. I apply several coats, allowing 48 hours to dry between coats with a light buffing of 000 steel wool in between. By removing the gunnels, you can easily bring them into a heated area with little fanfare. In my case the rest of the boat can them be gone over to repair and clean up what needs to be done. As Jim speaks from experience, if you have a shop area to work in, be conscious of the heat issue with your better half. Winter is the time to prepare your boat for the season ahead, although with this winter so far, there is still great paddling to be had in the Northeast. With rain forecast for tomorrow, Sunday may be a great paddling day, as well as Christmas. Be sure to involve your families.

Have a merry Christmas everyone
Pat

and redo them with oil called Diecks Ojile (or some Norse name like that, I don't know the spelling).

I sand them nicely, oil them twice and after they dry well, go over them lightly with 000 steel wool.

I have always liked this oil but have no reason to think it is better than Watco.
Chris Kelly