C-Forum

I have been looking at the Werner paddles. I have a Werner Rec canoe paddle. I don't like the feel of the grip. The curve on top is ok. But the curve on the bottom of the grip feels uncomfortable -- it forces the inner fingers into the side of the shaft. The Bandit paddles appear to have a similar shaped grip.

I have tried a few other paddles. An elongated barrel shape feels pretty good. Or a rounded top with flat bottom is OK too.

So, does Werner offer any alternate shapes/styles for the T Grips?

This may seem pretty anal but I can't see spending that kind of money for a paddle that doesn't feel good. So, wondering here, do the people that make these paddles ever use them?

Hello Lou,

I've been using Werner Paddles (Bandits) for several years. The T-grip (a rounded wooden laminate) works very well for me . It is a great performing and durable stick for the money. I have yet to break one.

SYOTR,
Bruce

Thanks for the response. I am looking at the Werner website. The T grip described on this page does not match your description:
http://www.wernerpaddles.com/paddles/banditc.html

From what I can read from this, the Bandit has an "enhanced ABS T-Grip" that looks very much like the plastic grip on my Werner Rec paddle. Not the laminated wood grip you describe.

Are there other options that I am not finding?

Meet me on the Pine and you can try mine, it's got the wood handle.
Doug

Werner changed the bandit's t-grip a little while ago.

Lou,
It looks like they have changed the T-grip . I have used this new Werner T-grip shape with the old Perception Harmony paddles and it does provide an improved grip, but you may need to initially rough up the grip with sand paper and/or use some sex wax.
I liked the earlier wood laminate Werner Grips because they gave the paddle a more classy look, but I suspect the new grips are more functional .
SYOTR,
Bruce

as a word of caution, you have to be real carefull when putting a
wood grip in a fiber/carbon shaft...the wood needs to be encapsulated
to keep it from swelling/expanding to the point of splitting the shaft,
the old waterstick paddles had thisl problem

that said the wooden handle can be shaped to your ideal shape,
while the plastic is a what you got...is what you've got, and wood
does feel good

You are reading my mind. I was thinking about cutting into some ash lumber and making a wooden grip for my Werner rec paddle.

Just wondering, but does anyone else find that the concave shape on the underside of the grip is uncomfortable? I can't see how that particular shape gives you any stronger grip on the handle.
Look at your hand. A slightly tapered barrel shape seems to be the most logically anatomical or anatomically logical. Sometimes it is best to question the mold or the molder.

maybe i'm just me, but I place place my pointing finger on the away side of the shaft, other three on the boat side. Really helps with the 'J-stroke wrist twist thing. Then when it's time to take-holt-take holt, with a standard split fingered grip........Paddle paddle paddle and quit thinking about it

I have a carbon Werner Bandit with the wooden t-grip. It seems to be ever so slightly shaped for ergonomics. I thought it felt good untill I got my new Mitchell, now the werner feels like crap compared to the mitchell.

The funny thing is the mitchell is just a round handle. I guess simple is better. I can't wait to try out this paddle. Plus it is wood, whereas my Werner is carbon fiber. The Werner always just sort of felt "dead" in my hands.

...i think you're trippin' on your grippin'

i'm a fan of the simple round dowel grip, but the curvatious werner grip is fine too. i don't care too much. to me...that's the LEAST important part of the paddle. but it IS part of the paddle and if it bugs you... well... get over it! i'm kidding.
one thing nobody has mentioned though.... i wonder if maybe you're grippin it too tight?

was that a big help, or what?

I make all of my own T-grips. I make them in ergonomic shapes so that the force of my effort is distributed broadly over my palm, and so that my fingers do NOT curve under the grip where they would conflict with the shaft. Because my paddles include spoon blades and a 5 degree bent shaft, the grips are directional. I also strive for forms which allow comfortable shifting of hand position when doing crossing strokes. These grips are heavier than dowels by a bit, but on light paddles the grip weight contributes to better paddle balance.

I've used attractive woods such as elm or walnut. Much of the carving is done with coarse rasps or Stanley Sureforms. The grips are oiled rather than varnished for better grip.

These grips have gone through a lot of foolish trial-and-error, but I now have a design which, sized up or down, would probably please anyone. I don't have a way to post a picture, but if anyone is curious, I could make a few digital photos to send.