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How do I get the paint off of a Kevlar boat?
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:04 am
by Mike W.
I bought an old canoe yesterday & the previous owner painted it. Some is pealing & I hope that trend continues. If it doesn't, how do I get the rest of the paint off. Some places are pretty thick. I took acetone to the model plate today, but that'll take WAY too much time & acetone to do the whole boat.
Also, where can I find a sliding seat & rails? I need the type with the narrow track. Neither Wenonah, nor J & J show them on their web-sites.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:31 am
by ezwater
There's a chance that the outer layer is glass rather than Kevlar. Do you see any fuzzy fibers scuffed out of wear areas? That would be Kevlar. Glass wears smooth.
You also need to know which resin was used, polyester (unlikely but possible in an old boat), vinylester, or epoxy. That might affect what paint removers can be safely used.
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:20 am
by kaz
Hi Mike,
Crozier or Diller will gladly sell you a sliding seat kit.
JK
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:32 am
by sbroam
Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:13 pm
by jscottl67
Hmmm...I think a quick trip down the Haw at current water levels should take care of most of the paint for you
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:22 am
by Mike W.
ezwater, The boat is a Wenonah C1W. I doubt there's any glass in it. I have no idea which resin they used.
Kaz, Thanks, Savage River's most narrow rails are 9.5". This frame is set up for 6" centers. I can't find Crozier on the web. Looks like some glass work in my near future.
sbroam, This boat is set up to have the sliding seat frame glassed to the bottom of the hull. The rails are on 6" centers. It's got rounded aluminum gunwales that I probably wouldn't trust to hold me
jscott, I'll pass on the Haw at this level. As soon as I get a seat it'll spend a lot of time on the Roanoke though
Looks like it's gonna be hard to paddle, but it should be fairly fast if I can keep it upright
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:12 am
by sbroam
Mike W. wrote:
sbroam, This boat is set up to have the sliding seat frame glassed to the bottom of the hull. The rails are on 6" centers. It's got rounded aluminum gunwales that I probably wouldn't trust to hold me
Foam sitting pedestal? Make the base big enough and friction will hold it in?
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:40 am
by Mike W.
Ya know, that could work. But John Diller just e-mailed me. He'll make the carbon
bucket seat with the rails on 6" centers. Think I'm going with that. With the narrow rails I should be able to sit for the flats & kneel in the fun stuff
remove paint from kevlar...
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:37 pm
by cc
DO NOT USE A PAINT STRIPPER of any kind. Understand resin is nothing more than a expanded chemical formula of paint (epoxy primer vs epoxy resin ) Differences are evident to those who want to correct me on this example. But for simplicity, relate the paint and resin. If it eats paint it will eat the resin system wether it be styrene based or epoxy based. Further more it will eat you too!
So start sanding with a sanding block by hand with 120 grit paper and work up to 220 grit. You can use a orbital sander but, kevlar will hold the heat, from the friction of sanding so keep moving around the surface, don't concentrate on a location.
Kevlar fuzzy's....wet them with epoxy and let cure and try to shave them with a razor blade or fill over them with mico balloons and cabosil mixed with epoxy resin. This formula makes a paste when blended together. Feather out the paste to the hull of the boat, and prime with epoxy primers.
NOTE: all this sanding and resin and additives....where a decent respirator and nitrle gloves. In a well ventulated room. Remeber resin won't really cure unless it is over 20 degrees C ( its a CDN thing) and if you can get the hull up to temperture for 12-15hrs constantly during the cure next summers heat will have little to no effect on your repair.
All in all take your time rushing will cause a disaster.
C.C.
How bout blasting...
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:31 pm
by creek1r
With a plastic or walnut shell medium instead of sand? Check with high-tech body shops or hotrod shops.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:47 pm
by Mike W.
The seat is being made
cc, thanks for the reminder on solvents
creek1r, that's a good idea w/ the blasting
I think I'll peel off what paint that I can, then take the water hose to it. What's left I'll either sand, check w/ a good body shop about some type of media blasting, or just go paddle it.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:03 pm
by PAC
Industrial High Pressurer H20 Washer 6.5 HP+
Yep a power washer might just do it
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:12 pm
by Jim P
With the right tip and distance from the surface. Start with a bigger fan and work your way down. Be carefull you can etch concrete with a zero degree tip! Better than writing your name in the snow - do it in the sidewalk
Got a 13 HP if your in the DC area.
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:54 pm
by KNeal
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:11 pm
by Mike W.
PAC wrote:Industrial High Pressurer H20 Washer 6.5 HP+
I finally find a boat for downriver racing & y'all want me to blow holes in it
Y'all just don't want me to paddle this boat do ya? Well, sorry KNeal, tomorrow night I'm doing stuff w/ the kids.
I think I'll load the Sith & go surf for a while at Weldon now