C-Forum

ABS SLURRY REPAIRS REVISITED

1. What is the right type of plastic pipe to cut up for ABS slurry? (replies of "ABS pipe" will incur the wrath of the river gods)
2. What is the optimal size to cut the pieces into? As small as possible?
3. Can I assume that the proper consistancy is just a bit thicker than paint?
4. Do I have to remove the vinyl pigment layer? What's the best way to do that? Acetone?
5. What's the best way to get rid of the remaining foam core? Sanding?
6. If I were to fill the void with Gorrila Glue, Marine Goop, 2 part Urethane epoxy, or anything else besides additional thin coats of ABS slurry- what will adhere the 1st coat of slurry to the hardened filler?
7. What would be the disadvantage of using ABS slurry exclusively? Poor shock absorbtion? Time constraints?
8. How hardened does the previous coat of slurry need to be before I can put on the next? Rock hard, or is still a bit tacky okay? Anybody have a guess as to the drying time for a thin-ish coat of slurry (at room temp)? If I'm gunna paddle the boat this weekend, I probably need to do more than one coat per day...
Hey, anybody wanna just do it for me?

Thanks in advance for the flood of detailed, first-hand information!

Is there a white ABS (Scott B?) - I have only found black. Or is other types of plastics acceptable for mixing into this OC Cocktail?

How do you get the color of the slurry to match the boat - or is that not possible? Add pigment or just paint over it?

Hey Kevin is not alone on this one - its been years since I did a fix and outfitting on a OC and now I have a couple to work on (for some a boy scout troop) ... so please, pretty please, with positive Cboats thoughts provide feedback oh experts of the slurry.

In the mean time - I'll be just wing'n it with acatone and ABS (black piping).

MotorCityOC-1 the pipe will have ABS printed on it - you just have to look hard and in my case have reading glasses with you!

Paul C.

I'm no expert at ABS Slurry. See one, Do one, Teach one.
1) I would stick with ABS. Pac's right. It will say ABS on the pipe somewhere. I was nervouse because I found several types of pipe in the same rack at Lowe's so I used 2" threaded plugs all of which had "ABS" stamped on them. They were solid chunks of ABS and dissolved completely in < 24 hrs. Paid a little more but I was sure it was the right stuff.
2) I put the plugs in an empty quart paint can and covered them with acetone.
3) Yes. Milkshake - just thicker than paint
4) I did, by scraping
5) Heat it with a heat gun CAREFULLY
6) I drilled the bubble in my outer with a series of 1/4" holes only through this outer layer and filled it with JB Weld then sanded
7)don't know
Yes, Rock Hard. If you try to add layers when the first is "tacky" the lower layer will pull. Also, I'd be afraid the acetone would "sink" into your inner layer and soften your boat. I took the advice of the list and allowed a day or two between coats.

I tried using PVC because it was grey. It uh... didnt work. Just turned into soft-pvc sitting in acetone after a week. After a day the ABS should pretty much be melted down. So you have to use "ABS Pipe" ... oops sorry about that.

They do have grey ABS pipe out there, I've seen a slurry job on someone else's boat. I have not seen it... might be able to get it at a plumbing store?

I don't use the pipe, I've always used ABS sheet from a plastics supplier. You can get black or white and in a good thickness (about 1/16"?) to use in larger repairs.

Thanks for the help. I broke down and bought a half sheet of 1/8" because I could. I think I'm gunna take the advice of the plastics dude that sold me the ABS and lay up some glass into the layers of slurry, and maybe a couple layers of glass & slurry over the edges of the holes. Anybody done this?

Hopefully Saint-Gobain won't sue me for making my own poor man's TwinTex

If you gonna put ABS Slurry over a dry piece of glass cloth ya better be quick. If you think West System is fast, you ain't seen nothin' yet! Maybe try it on a piece of foam core board first.

has anybody added shirt fiberglass fibers (chop) to the ABS slurry??? something along the line of 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch... may act like fiber-reinforced concrete

cheapjack, tell me more about those bubbles. are we talking de-lam bubbles that ocoees are prone to get at the chine and under the pedestal? those things i need badly to fix before they split and let water in the core of the hull? please tell me more!

Yep, Delam bubbles in the chine. Drill the outer layer, fill the dead space and cover (read patch) over the exposed ABS.

Does anyone have any photos of the work they have done. Step by step or even just the finished product? Thanks!

YOu guys are talking of using acetone. Previously I've mainly heard people discuss using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Has anyone used both? Any comparisons/preferences?

I need to do a repair. Just discovered a potential source of the ABS (I haven't been able to find ABS pipe here in Switzerland - no idea why, but the local hardware shops are really limited in some things), not sure about the price, but it won't be cheap. Atleast it's a start. I need to do some work on the Zoom...

I have acetone already and can easily get more. MEK is a bit harder, but possible.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

cheajack, sorry for misspelling your name-my bad. once delams are filled (and flattend?) what's the best to cover with? will the slurry layers work or should it be a patch of abs sheet or what? my chine is pretty soft, so i need to do more, don't i?

I'm prolly not the one to give you advice on how to reinforce your chine, but the area of delam I have is about 3" X 18" long and I used JB Weld to fill the void and ABS slurry and a layer of Kevlar over that. The concern is that the Kevlar will pop off if the hull flexes and it will. I took a hard hit on the stern end of a boat that I had patched with Kevlar and part of it popped and you would think there would be less flex there than on a chine. ABS sheet has been hard for me to work and shape, but I have found a source of thinner sheets (0.060" and 0.090" thick). Maybe these thinner sheets will be easier to shape than the 1/8" pieces I have used before. Also, I think a chine would be easier to fit than an end. http://www.rplastics.com/index.html . This source may be a little pricey once you factor in shipping but if you don't have a local plastics dealer, UPS will bring it to your door.

Kevlar is rather weak in compression and also tends to get fuzzy when abraded... as a result the outside of a hull is not the ideal place for it