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C1 conversion outfitting pics
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 6:00 pm
by cbcboat
So I have aoutfitted a few C1s and have used my modified version of the Fence Rail idea, thought I would share a couple of pics. The album that the link is for has 2 boats, a Rockit and an X. the X is the one I am refering to. they aren't the most descriptive pics but I thought I would share anyway. what I have done is taken a 4x4 fence rail and a cut out piece of an old kayak hull (any plastic that is semi rigid should work) and riveted the fence rail to the piece of plastic. I then cut a slit in the foam pillars so the Fence rail can slide in a bit. Then the plastic gets bolted/screwed into the shell, ideally using existing holes, but if not I make new ones (no big deal). Ideally the piece of old kayak os large enough that all of the outfitting can be attached to that plastic therefore making the whole assembly removable/interchangable. This particular boat I used a samll piece of old kayak and attached the thigh straps to the old seat bolts from the kayak seat. As for attaching the straps to the bottom I cut slits in the fence rail and feed the straps through those slits, its suprisingly strong, haven't had a failure yet (knock on wood). Glue knee pads to the plastic insert. For the Saddle I use indstrial strength Velcro to attach it to the fence rail (the black patch in the picture). As for making a saddle well to each their own. The nice thing about using velcro is you can adjust trim just by moving the saddle, I also have only one saddle that can be used in 3 different boats. the first time took me a bit but after that it literally takes only about 1/2 hr to do the whole setup (that doesn't include shaping the foam saddle, because it was already done).
http://picasaweb.google.com/beephunky/Boats#
The boat with the white running down the middle is what I am refering too, not the Rockit, it has different outfitting.
Maybe this will help spark some other ideas, maybe not.
Cheers
B
seat rail
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:49 am
by Bernie
Try a LL seat rail and you have the most rigid structural integrity of anything on the market.
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:10 am
by Marc Evans
cbcboats, looks good.
Oopsiflipped showed me a couple of the LL seat rails before he left the west. They looked real nice - much more slender and compact than a 4 inch fence rail.
Bernie, where can you get them? Do you know how much they run? Got any pictures of one set up in a boat?
Marc
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:20 am
by cbcboat
I've used a LL rail as well, but obviously they are a little less available. I also find that having 4"of height from the fence rail means I have to use less foam for the saddle which is easier to shape and is less $$. Bernie is right though they do work well.
B
What's "LL"?
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:46 am
by yarnellboat
Good timing cbcboat, as I'm just outfitting a Redline now, so far I've just raised the rim and done the saddle, and all ideas can contribute...
Basically I have a seat connected to the stern pillar, and I'll have a bulkhead connected to the bow pillar. And I need a way to keep them secure in the boat (probably just wedging & glueing is fine), and more importantly a place to attach thigh straps.
I was thinking of just putting a few inches of dowel between them and connecting my straps to the rod (basically how my other C-1 was done).
The advantages of using a post I guess are the added rigidity along the bottom of the hull, and a more solid connection between the bow and stern foam (though this may be no big deal if the foam is in securely anyway).
Also, the logistics/options of installing the post might be easier or more secure than the logistics of putting in a rod - that might be the deciding factor!
Not sure what I'll do yet, but will consider a section of post for my strap anchors. I'll take a good look around next time I'm at a supply store.
What's "LL"?
Thanks, Pat.
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:05 pm
by sbroam
I prefer vinyl downspout to fence post - I think the downspout (square) is about 2 - 3" square and takes up a bit less room. Might not seem like much, but in a C-1 cockpit, it does make a difference. You might reinforce it if concerned about the strength. I think it was Jamie D'Ors who had pix up somewhere of his where he epoxied some marine grade plywood inside.
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:07 pm
by Marc Evans
LL = Liquid Logic (kayak rail).
Marc
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 5:18 pm
by B-rad
I've got a fence rail in a boat that I bought recently, but it's about 2 inches off the hull in most places, and doesnt' really touch bottom except by the pillars. Is this because it was poorly installed? Any suggestions on how to fill the gap?
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:58 pm
by yarnellboat
Odds of me getting a kayak rail aren't good. I'll look for some post or strong spout, ideally less than 4" square, I'll see what I can find.
B-rad, If you want to close the gap with your hull - and it might not matter, my other C-1 has a paddle shaft instead of rail (i.e., also not along hull) and it doesn't matter. If you see no obvious advantages, don't change it. If you want to change it, try getting some minicell foam under there.
Pat.
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 6:46 am
by yarnellboat
Quite a bit to choose from at the building supplies if you want to get creative.
I found a few feet of old 2" plastic downspout (at least we think that's what it was). It may be a little flimsy, but might be OK as-is, depending on the length I need to use. If it's a little lightweight, I'll reinforce it with some hockey stick inside or something. This smaller downspout seemed stronger than the standard larger size. What do want for $1?
Back up plan was a little 3-sided coated steel rod-thing that was for blinds or shelving or something. And there were other similar possibilities.
Fence posts and other railing things were too big, too heavy and too expensive.
I'll try to get around to also posting some photos of this outfitting as/when it progresses.
Pat.
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:23 pm
by AYockey
B-rad I had the same thing in my boat. I am really worried about the boat oil canning underneath the rail. I cut some strips of foam to fill in the empty space. I might have actually put too much foam in and rounded the bottom out which might be affecting the initial stability. I have been meaning to post some pictures. I also had to cut the rail down after I installed it the first time because there was a large bump under the back end.