C-Forum

Alright I'm pretty much finished with my conversion. It's a liquidlogic skip. The saddle is 7" and 9" wide (I think I'm going to need to make it a little thinner. I went with straps and a bulkhead. I really need to know where hip pads are placed, looking at my pictures what do you suggest? Also, should I just put a seatback that's a couple inches? Other than the seatback and the hip pads I really only need to put in some ankle blocks, and I'm done. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Here's the link to the pics:

http://picasaweb.google.com/10986855534 ... ersionPics#

First thing to do is glue all of that foam that's duct taped together if you want to keep it. Use Weldwood contact cement. The flamible stuff in the red can.

On the saddle width: Wider saddles are more comfortable. Keep it as wide as you can while still being able to get out of the boat.

Seat back: Mine vary from 1.5 to 6" high. It's all that is keeping you from falling out the back, so w/ a playboat I'd go 4 to 6".

Once you get the boat trimmed on the water play w/ hip pads that will contact your hip bones.

All of this is my opinion. See what others add & do what you like

I use a wide thru-saddle with a built in knee spreader and a 6" backblock in the crazy, the backblock needs reshaping again (after I moved my wieght to be balanced totally central. The boat now blunts effortlessly and leaves a small line shaped bruise on my arse)

Pics here

I think I'd prefer the backband setup I have in my creekboat in there TBH, I just can't do it in the crazy, You might consider it in your skip if you still have the bits.


I just removed the thighbraces and bolted the small metal bit with the ratchet straight back through the holes,
Moved the blue bit of metal that retains the height of the backband forwards so it was in line with my hips (requires drilling a new hole) and used the original seat hole to attach my straps.
ATM I need to glue some foam to those metal bits to pad my hips out and replace the duck-taped on foam block on the backband (stops me from pushing it down and breaking the plastic belt) with a custom shaped one that extends it's support further up my back.

ditto on losing the duct tape and getting some weldwood. walmart is by far the cheapest place to get. looks much better than my first go at a c1 conversion. i would stay away from trying to use the kayak backband in c1. tricky to get right at best. hip pads can often be attached to seat bolt holes if you go with cutting boards or can bend some metal to fit. if you make them entirely from foam expect to have to remake then on a regular basis.

oopsiflipped wrote:trying to use the kayak backband in c1. tricky to get right at best.

The stiff LL backbands are less difficult than flexi ones, but I definately don't want to end up like Chris with 4 sets of straps (Thigh straps, lap belt, strap to hold backband in place) and a thigh depth bulkhead.

Welcome to the hard part, I've always found hip/thigh pads to be one of the hardest part of the conversion...you should think about a quick release on those straps, unless you can push thru the velcro. I'm experimenting with a kayak backband in my Blowfish, I like the adjustability and the contoured support, dislike more rope in the boat. I bought some cheap rope straps from lowes, it has a little arrest device that allows the rope to pull through in one direction but you have to push a release to pull back the other direction. Drilled out the rivet holding the contraption together and bolted to my cockpit rim to hold tension on the back band rope. The rope stays pretty well out of the way. Back band tends to slide down too low though...

Also be careful about bolting the hip/thigh pads to the rim, be sure to use as big washers as you can find. That puts a lot of stress on a place not designed to handle a lot of stress and you'll start cracking around the screwholes and rim...that's what killed my rad