Is this typical for new boats with wood gunnels?

Wiggins · Post by **Wiggins** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:12 am

I just picked up my new L'edge and the gunnels had no stain or finish on them. Is this normal for new boats with wood gunnels?

Kyle

roaring-riverman · Post by **roaring-riverman** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:00 pm

want to mention that I've been told the best finish is Tung Oil. It can be applied with a rag. Then wipe away the excess. Apply multiple coats. It's pretty easy.

ncdavid · Post by **ncdavid** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:21 pm

Make sure that you oil the surface that contacts the boat. I recently took the gunwales off a Spark and reconditioned them. If the surface that touches the Royalite had ever been oiled, it was a very light coat. When I put gunwales on my Rival and my Prelude, I oiled the gunwales completely before installing them. I also applied a little teak oil with a small paintbrush tip after drilling each hole.

Kelvin · Post by **Kelvin** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:44 pm

Hi Kyle,

Perfect, it also gives you the opportunity to sand them to a good finish before oiling. Most boat that come with wood trim are fairly roughly done.

Kelvin.

Post by **sbroam** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 2:39 pm

I was in a shop the other day and they had a second hand Outrage that looked very nearly new and the rails looked like they had never been finished or oiled either - I know rails that have been oiled can dry out but from a very casual inspection, these looked untouched. I can't say I've ever bought a *new* boat with wood gunwales, though...

I have been using Watco Teak Oil - probably very similar to many of the other oil options, but smells better than straight linseed oil to me. If I was going to make too many more sets, I think I would set up about 17' (to cover my likely max boat size) of 4" PVC, cap both ends, and use it as a vessel to presoak the rails before ever putting them on the boat.

Longboatin · Post by **Longboatin** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:48 pm

Sure pre-soaking isnt a little OTT? I probly wrong but I unnerstan oil only soak in so far, no matter how long it contact the wood. I mean the can say two liberal coats, 30 mins in between, last coat sit 15 mins afore wiping excess.
Sorry, fresh on the brain as i'm spheres deep in gunnel replacement project rite now

craig · Post by **craig** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:31 pm

and dispose of the rags properly, that stuff is notorius for catching fire all by itself. I'd hate to see a boat shed full of melted canoes or worse if you keep em in the basement.

busterblue · Post by **busterblue** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:48 pm

Is this normal for new boats with wood gunnels?

So far the consensus seems to be that it is normal, which is really surprising to me. Especially if you have to take the gunwales off to oil up the edge that makes contact with the boat. Am I missing something?

kaz · Post by **kaz** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:54 pm

Is this normal for new boats with wood gunnels?

Not at Millbrook Boats. All canoes have their gunwales oiled on all 4 sides before installation, and then all exposed wood gets another coat of oil after a light sanding.

JKaz

Larry Horne · Post by **Larry Horne** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:19 am

Nice Kaz.
Refreshing to hear somebody still does things the best they can.

Wiggins · Post by **Wiggins** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:20 am

I put some urethane based marine wood stain on them last night. It has held up well for me with other projects.

I have to say I am a little dissapointed in the finish work on the boat as it relates to the conversion. In addition to the gunnels the cuts on the deck look like I could have done them by hand (a little sloppy), and they didn't even bother to wipe off the line they drew on the boat to outline where they were going to cut the decks. Not what I would expect of something that came from a factory, and costs close to $2000.

That being said I don't buy whitewater boats because they are pretty. As long as it performs I will be more than happy with the boat, but if I had it all to do all over again I would save the $300 and take the decks off myself.

Kyle

Cheeks · Post by **Cheeks** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:37 am

Make sure you get the ends of the gunwales. It's often overlooked, but it's where the majority of the water will get if left untreated.

I'm surprised they don't treat them. For a 2,000 dollar boat, I guess I'd expect a buck or two's worth of tung oil.

Smurfwarrior · Post by **Smurfwarrior** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:52 am

I saved the $300 and bought decked, then converted. Wouldn't do that again... the bends they get in the wood at the factory is just so much closer to the ends than I could get... I kicked myself the whole time.

Craig Smerda · Post by **Craig Smerda** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:38 am

I've been at the factory several times and have seen many pairs of wood gunnels installed. They typically treat them with a liberal coat of natural oil on all sides and attach them to the boat. Of course the initial treatment soaks in on the first application and if one desires another finish or color it's easy to do at home. If an owner wants to give their boats a more personal look or treat the gunnels differently it's up to them. I'm not implying they are perfect but this is the standard protocol for most manufacturers. The last Dagger Ocoee I recieved required complete removal of the gunnels to recieve the desired finish I wanted... of course I lowered the ends a few inches and had to do a bit of work myself but that's all part of that "personalization" I enjoy. Not making excuses here... just telling you what I've seen and done. If you have a complaint... why not take it to the manufacturer first... assuming of course you've already done that. I realize the wood trim is an extra $300 and I'm not making excuses but to my knowledge no gunnels leave the factory naked of any finish.

FWIW I've sent a link to this thread to the proper parties... but as I said... you may want to be certain that there was nothing applied to the gunnels because as natural as they may appear I'm nearly positive a finish was applied.

Hope this helps... and if you have any more questions or concerns as always feel free to contact your dealer, rep., Esquif or myself.

Craig

I can't always provide the answers people want or that they want to hear... but I do care a great deal and Esquif is more than open to rectifying and improving all reasonable issues and concerns how they can. Remember... with good feedback and reasonable expectations things will always get better.

At the end of the day... I'm a boater that wants the best possible product money can buy... just like everyone else.

Esquif nor anyone else makes Unicorns though... if that were possible I'd be over on Magical-Free-Indestructable-Unicorns.net rather than here.

http://www.blueq.com/modules/ecs/images/125844795_m.png

OK... I'm going back to watching Swordfish now... Halle Berry's big-scene is coming up.

Lappie · Post by **Lappie** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:56 am

Good for you Craig!! But in my book, the best the money can buy, is a well finish boat, that include the amount of treatment on the wood that it needs to protect it properly at least for the first season, to have all the parts well fitted and the finishing done and that usualy include removing all marking for cuts, glue to be apply and holes to be drilled. When I buy something as a kit to finish my self, it usualy cost less... All the boats that I've deeled with that came with wood gunnels had anought finish on it to last the first summer and had to be refinished in the fall( I work in a paddling shop, so i've seen my share of boat with wood gunwales)!

just my thoughts on what is a well finished product!!

C-Forum

Is this typical for new boats with wood gunnels?

Is this typical for new boats with wood gunnels?

I'm not sure if it's typical or not. Probably not. Just

hunh?