Probe 12 thwart modification

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avlclimber
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Probe 12 thwart modification

Post by avlclimber »

Hmm, so seeking some advice on my old beater boat the probe 12.

If I cut new thwarts 1.5 inches shorter (or so) would that sharpen up the chines for some snappier response? I feel it would also make the boat a little narrower for x-forwards and general strokes.

The boat is good for plunking beginners in, as you can do a lot in it, but it is also super stable and would probably float through most stuff upright if you didn't paddle it at all.

I do a lot of class II - IV paddling, but would probably only really push the probe to class III. Will this modification make it a more satisfying stand-in while I replace my Viper 11? Has anyone done this? Are there unforeseen concerns?
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sbroam
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Post by sbroam »

I did similar to a Viper 12 and like to think it made it faster and edgier, but those changes were probably more subtle than just having a boat from which it was easier to reach the water. Go for it.

Don't dis your Probe - that's a versatie, accomodating boat - easy ain't bad, just listen to the L'Edge raving ;-) however, 12' does seem awful long these days, almost long enough for another seat...
avlclimber
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Post by avlclimber »

Not dissing the probe, it's great! It's just a little Frankensteiny on it's mix-n-match gunwale setup and patchwork hull. Those repairs are all still holding strong since it’s purchase years ago at GAF. The fella sold it to me for a song. He was a charitable open boater who correctly bargained that if he sold me his beater boat, he would hook a youngster on the sport. That was 8 years ago, and I now use the Probe primarily to take newbies downriver myself. Over the years I have convinced a few others to buy their own boat after a few trips on beautiful WNC rivers...

I sat in the boat for the first time in a long time the other day, and my first thought was, Hey, this is really a great boat! I would like to try narrowing it up to reach the water and maybe get some edges out of it.

Thwarts: what's a recommended first length to pull it in, 1.5 inches?

For that matter, what's a recommended (cheap, light, easy) material?

I'll keep the factory thwarts whole (they're metal) and replace with... some hardware store hardwood 1x3? What would be easy, light, strong enough? I'd like to be able to saw it down a bit more if it's not extreme enough, But if some aluminum tubing were strong enough and easy enough to work with, I'd consider it.

--Z
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sbroam
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Post by sbroam »

When I shortened them in my Viper, I just took the factory thwarts and crimped them in a vise, sawed off the excess and drilled new hole. Come to think of it, I may have only shortened the front thwart... I'd cut a noticeable amount - 1.5" is a good start.

I've used lumber yard (Lowe's) hardwood (maple?) in a flatwater boat - it's probably heavier than other woods, but it's lasted years. We used an old aluminum paddle shaft on another boat. A lot of things will do.
Last edited by sbroam on Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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gumpy
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Post by gumpy »

The shaft of an otherwise old worn out wood hockey stick makes excellent thwart stock. They're generally laminated canadien ash. If you're fresh out, I've prolly got 20 or so in the basement you can choose from. My personal fav is the Sherwood PMP Paul Coffee model...
Joe
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philcanoe
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Post by philcanoe »

FOR A TEST - You might try drilling several holes in a long enough piece of scrap, maybe 5-6 holes half a inch apart.... and then attach by laying across top of both gunwales. A couple little tests... and then you'll be certain. For ease or safety's sake, you might attach the onside flush and let the other side extend out. Then cut away, try 4a while, and make the permanent fix.

You make want to take note of any changes to rocker, as well as length... as well as the more subjective edge changes.
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sbroam
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Post by sbroam »

Didn't Mohawk have an adjustable thwart at one time?
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