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Glassed in gunwales....

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:08 am
by PAC
Okay so I started to finally work on the refab of the Mad River Twister so it would be ready for Riversport. Basically some general TLC and replacing the gunwales that are rotted out in places (multiple places). But I find them glassed in on the inner lower rail. :o
Any thought on how to best remove with limiting the work and possible damage. Right now I see PAC spending a number of late nights with a chisle in hand and safety glasses on and I have other to dos on the lists! Thoughts?

PS Part of me understands why this was done and part of me wants to go back and time to use a thought adjustment paddle! :cry:

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:29 am
by Sir Adam
Depending on how well glassed in they are... and how rotted the wood is - tear out the wood, then cut out the extra class, then sand flush. Just be sure not to tear the boat instead...or you'll just have MORE glass work to do....

If epoxy wasn't used you may be surprised how easily the wood actually comes out... if it was used, go the chisel route and dull it.

Other thought would be safety glasses, a respirator, and a dremel with a good cutting wheel... and replacements for said cutting wheel.

Keep us posted on how it goes!

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:19 am
by philcanoe
Are they glassed in as wrapped with glass, or just adhered from the back side?

I'd start by playing around a bit from either direction. Seeing if maybe the woods grain might be used to affect removal. Maybe a little heat might also help, as there's no telling what was used. Or if gunwale was not wrapped in glass, this still may help as gunwale could be stuck with some type of varnished finish. You might find using a glaziers tool, or better yet one of their really thin and stiff flat bars to separate better than a sharp chisel. As the two may separate without any cutting action, by sliding-tapping between the two and not really risk errant cutting.

If gunwales are indeed glassed in, you still might be able to slide a utility knife between wood an boat, and then separate. So as to avoid mass amounts of sanding or any real chisel work.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:19 am
by clarion
Vibrating/oscillating tool? I've got a Dremmel Mulit Max that you are welcome to borrow. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages ... =Multi-Max

I'm thinking one of the flat scraper type blades. I have a thin one and a thicker one ... or a cutting blade.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:38 am
by kaz
Paul,
I've come across that "feature" in Twisters and Cyclones from MRC. Like what has been said here already, chisel, hammer, Dremel, sanding. Sorry.
Good luck.

JKaz

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:02 am
by PAC
Yep - figured thanks all! Just another "to deal with"! The gunwales are smaller than most ww boats (racer) and are glassed in at the bottom (under) and seem to be glassed to the boat (inside). This is going to take some time since the glass is thin and the boat is old. Basically beater and I was hoping for low labor... not! :cry:

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:15 am
by sbroam
How much worse would it be to run the new gunnels under the old and lose 1/2" of freeboard? IIRC, that boat is fairly deep.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:19 pm
by PAC
That thought crossed my mind Scott. It’s not like a 1/2 of freeboard would make or break MY racing career. Unfortunately there is structural support ribbing that runs up to the base of the gunwales on both sides and in multiple places... hence I'd have to "carefully" cut out that structure and rework / glass it. I'm not sure the old girl would survive the operation, performed by Dr. Seat-of-the-pants, it’s an old boat from the 80s.
Dermal and chisel look like the solution now. The gunwale I have for her are also too wide so that’s going to be an issue but one a plainer can address.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 6:21 pm
by RodeoClown
depending on how many layers of what type of glass, a utility knife with a sharp blade might be a good start on the bottom. (actually, get a pack of blades, they'll dull pretty fast.) If it's just one layer (or two of lightweight glass, you should be able to get through it in a couple of passes. If it's more than that, sounds like chisel.

Be sure to swear a lot.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:27 pm
by ESP
And please! Don't cut yourself because you are rushing and let a blade slip.

Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 11:55 pm
by tennOC
I'm with Clarion on this one-- use the amazing Multi tool. I'd go with the half-moon fine tooth blade.

Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:36 pm
by mahyongg
You could use a router, one of the pulley-guided kind to not work into the glass once you've routed down all of the gunwale. Or just plane away with an electric plane.. if you have one. Glass/Epoxy might dull the blade somewhat, so use a beater if available.

good luck, its always great if one more boat is kept alife!

Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:43 pm
by PAC
Followed Sbroam's thought process.... just took a dremel and cut a half inch off the freeboard. So far so good... was going to install gunwales tonight but free steeler tickets got in the way. :-) Still have a week to riversport... should be do-able. Thanks all.

Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 10:31 pm
by PAC
Forgot to post an update on this...
Prior to race day...
Image

Race day....
Image

Still needs some work but getting there...

Plus its a hoot to paddle! 8)

Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 1:24 am
by arhdc
Nice work Paul. We wanted to make it to the Riversport race but we just had too much going last month. It is always fun to see an old boat get the TLC that it deserves.