Mitchell Paddles - Is Wood Good?

Cheeks · Post by **Cheeks** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:08 am

So I've got some scratch to drop on a paddle, about 200 bucks to be exact. I want to get a wood Mitchell stick, but I still have a few questions before I pull the trigger.

Does the premier come in all wood (shaft and blade)

And

is that the route to go? I figure I'll have to be careful, and won't use it for ELF creeking, but that the paddle should be somewhat durable and can be easily repaired.

Do ya'll with all wood paddles reccomend them for rivers like the LY, UY, and the almost heaven watersheds?

Thanks!

Sir Adam · Post by **Sir Adam** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:28 am

Mitchell, Echo, Polar, Jimistyx, all make great all wood blades (there are others too).

And yes, IIRC you can order it in all wood (I have one anyway).

Though it looks great, I prefer all carbon (lighter).

RodeoClown · Post by **RodeoClown** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:35 am

The Premiers all have wood blades, with the option of either carbon or fiberglass over the wood. Either is available with a wood or carbon shaft.

My choice is carbon reinforced blade, wood shaft. I've been beating the crap out of mine, and it's holding up really well. I'd recommend it for any type of paddling, but I am a 'paid liar' so take that with a grain of salt.

Larry Horne · Post by **Larry Horne** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:46 am

they're nice and real purdy, but after so many repairs on the two that I had, i'll never use a blade with a tip insert again. not for whitewater. too much hassle. i like the blade to just wear away slowly.

eddyhops · Post by **eddyhops** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:48 am

http://www.cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic. ... od++carbon

http://www.cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic. ... od++carbon

http://www.cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic. ... od++carbon

http://www.cboats.net/cforum/viewtopic. ... od++carbon

RodeoClown wrote: My choice is carbon reinforced blade, wood shaft.

craig · Post by **craig** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:05 am

Wood is; warmer,flexes nicely, can be repaired and is nice looking. Just don't use it for poling:) I've had mine for 12 yrs and had the edging done over twice. Next time it is in for service I'll probably have the blade covered with carbon, cause I'm doing more creaking now.

gumpy · Post by **gumpy** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:06 am

jimistick! a few more bucks, but totally personalized & repairs are super affordable, plus made in usa in an area you already visit several times a year. my $.02

Cheeks · Post by **Cheeks** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:29 am

200 bucks. not 500 bucks and a second mortgage on my canoe!

seriously, I'd love a Jimistick, but I can't drop the money on one right now.

hmm, carbon or glass, decisions decisions...

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:47 am

If you're spending $200, get the Mitchell. If you've got $300, get a RiverStyk. I've got a Mitchell wood shaft/carbon covered blade, Mitchell carbon shaft/glass covered blade (now my 'beater' paddle) & a RiverStyk. The RiverStyk is my favorite, but it's new & I only use it in deep water. I used to feel the same way about my Mitchells.

I've beat the tar out of my Mitchells. I beat the aluminum tip out of one, but I had really been beating on it. They fixed it for a reasonable fee. Be sure to request the size grip you want as there's a huge difference in the feel of my Mitchell grips. If you decide on Mitchell, Kaz (Milbrook Boats) is a dealer & offers free shipping on paddles in the US.

Are Jimi's paddles worth an extra $100? Oh yeah. It's built for you, not the market. It's awesome to meet w/ Jim at his shop, talk see & feel the woods, shapes & sizes. Tell him what you want & he'll make it for you.

The grip of my RiverStyk:

The shaft is blown out in this photo, it looks much better in person:

Todhunter · Post by **Todhunter** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:16 pm

Wood is wonderful. I have to agree with Jeremy - wood shaft, carbon covered wood blade.

I am using a Zap Paddle right now and absolutely love it - it cost more than a Jim Snyder stick though. Laminated wood shaft with carbon fiber layers, blade very similar to a Werner Bandit, and an aluminum tip that is holding up great.

Mike W - I didn't know Jim did squared off blades...now I want one! My dad has a Jim Snyder stick and it is absolutely stunning - almost a shame to use it. His has a burly maple t-grip that is beautiful.

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 1:39 pm

If you get a wood shaft, be prepared to cover the area where it contacts the gunnels with electrical tape or something. The gunnels on your Viper will wreck the shaft in short order. Not that it's a problem covering it with electrical tape. The cheap suff is best (it seems) because it doesn't grip the gunnels and tear. It just slides.

I just went from a carbon shaft (bandit) to a Wood shafted Mitchell Premier and my upper body feels a lot better for it. Hard to believe (for me anyway) that water doesn't have enough give to it to make up for a stiff shaft. But it's now been proven to me. I understand that Mitchell will make a carbon shaft with a bit of flex to it if you want. But I think I'm sticking to wood from here.

DougB · Post by **DougB** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:14 pm

I've got both a wood and a carbon Mitchell Premier.

The wood Premier has a wood shaft with a laminated wood blade that can be covered in either carbon or fiberglass. Mine is carbon. I find this paddle to be heavy duty - beefier than my wood Echo Pursuit (and heavier) similar to a creek stick. I also find this paddle to be as stiff as my carbon Premier. I strongly suggest you get the shaft wrapped with glass to protect against abraision. This is an option with Mitchell but it should be standard. I wouldn't be afraid to take this paddle down any river

The carbon Premier has a wood spine that goes into the shaft and a thin wood veneer makes up the majority of blade area that is covered in carbon. This gives the carbon model a thinner blade and also makes for a significantly lighter paddle due to both the carbon shaft and thinner blade. I've had no issues with my carbon model but I suspect the wood model's blade will take more abuse. Still I prefer my carbon model - it's my stick of choice and I'm finding it's holdinig up very well, but don't do any hardcore creeking with it. The Mitchell carbon is not as stiff as a carbon Echo IMO. Either way you can't go wrong with a Mitchell

gumpy · Post by **gumpy** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:56 pm

the jimi stick comes with a dynel sleeve over the shaft, standard. mitchell charges extra. if you don't get the sleeve, the shaft will be damaged after only a few months. the jimi stick also gets dynel edging all the way around the blade. wayyyyy better than the aluminum tip on a mitchell. the aluminum will come loose. then within a year you'll have to send it in to get the tip fixed & a dynell sleeve installed. don't cheap out, it's only $100 more. and don't forget to ask tony about his experience with a carbon/wood mitchell.

djutzi · Post by **djutzi** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:10 pm

I've got an Echo Pursuit, wood shaft and blade, with carbon wrapped on the blade. it also has a dynel sleeve on the shaft.

After a year of heavy use it has held up extremely well.

I love the full wood with carbon on the blade. Plenty of stiffness to really grab the water, enough to generate some extra power even when you're 80% through your stroke, when you need it.

I haven't had ANY shoulder/arm problems. In comparison, with a full-carbon Werner Bandit, which I've used sparingly, I feel my arms and shoulders getting a little sore after an hour of paddling or so.

Atucky · Post by **Atucky** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:30 pm

it might be psychological, but a wooden shaft doesn't feel nearly as cold when paddling in the winter. Which is nice for me because I prefer to not wear gloves or pogies.

I agree with the flex comments.

I have a friend that has a wood carbon premier who might sell his. I believe it's a 56" in very good used condition if you're interested.

C-Forum

Mitchell Paddles - Is Wood Good?

Mitchell Paddles - Is Wood Good?

Re: Mitchell Paddles - Is Wood Good?

another thing