C-Forum

I picked up a OT Appalachian that I am really liking. I am using it for solo tripping, but also want to use it for some tandem WW runs, up to and including Class III. I put end bags in, but I think a center bag would be really nice for longer, more difficult rapids; it don't move too good when it's filled up. But where I will only want the center bag in about 25% of the time, I don't want to have to re-lace the bag cages every time I need it. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a removable bag cage? I'm starting to think those guys in the 70's were smart to use the big truck inertubes jammed under the thwarts, just not sure where I could get one of the appropriate size, and not sure if it would actually help much.

JBudz

I put small P-cord loops in the sides, and then I use a single piece of P-cord to lace back and forth across between the loops. takes a minute or two. Way faster than inflating or deflating the airbag itself.

Shep

I put small P-cord loops in the sides, and then I use a single piece of P-cord to lace back and forth across between the loops. takes a minute or two. Way faster than inflating or deflating the airbag itself.

You could do the same thing, put small P-cord loops in the sides BUT then use straps with buckles instead of the single piece of P-cord to lace back and forth across between the loops although that single piece of cord would be pretty fast to lace up.

^^ same as shep

I started in a tandem boat, and i never used a cage. I guess in bigger water a cage would have been good, but if youre running up to class 3, you should be good to go with para cord to dring attachments, and then extra para cord in an X over it. but there is lots of room for water in a tandem boat, and itll find its way in eventually.

Where are you from, and what's your local run? And remember, Tandemonium 2012 isn't that far off!

I live up in Rhode Island, don't really have a local WW run, but get on the Quaboag, Deerfield, and others in MA/CT.

I've never used the P-Clips on a Royalex boat, have always drilled the hull just below the gunnels. A single line should be easier to install and remove than the criss-cross method I use on the end bags. I bet the most important part is to have a strap or two in addition to the para cord to keep the bag from lifting up when the boat is filling up.

Lacing paracord through holes drilled in the hull is somewhat time consuming. If you don't want to use nylon inchworms riveted or screwed into the gunwales, just drill a pair of closely spaced holed through the hull below the gunwale at each anchor point. Through each pair of holes run a short loop of paracord with a knot tied on the inside (or outside if you prefer). Run your bag lacing through these loops as you would do with nylon inchworms. If you aren't using the center bag, just let the short loops hang on the inside of the hull. You can lace your cord through these loops very quickly.

You can glue one vinyl D-ring or web anchor at the center line of the hull bottom corresponding to where the front and rear edges of the center bag will come. Use one length of 1" nylon webbing as a keeper strap running lengthwise over the bag to help hold it down and keep it from shifting fore or aft. You can use quick release nylon Fastex side-release buckles or cam buckles to quickly attach or release the keeper strap.

With this type of cage you can have the bag in or out within 60 seconds (not counting bag inflation time).

pblanc gave a much better description of what I was trying to say. I like lot's of X-lacing with my P-cord, but by leaving the small loops that I drilled through the sides of the boat, it's super-quick in and out.

Shep

Got it, it's much quicker lacing through the loops as opposed to holes in the hull. How far apart are the holes for the loops, 1.5"? how far between the loops, 3"? Is one keeper strap enough? Since the center bag is so big I was thinking 2 might be a good idea. I was wondering about the fronts and backs of the cages, do you complete them or is the keeper strap enough to keep it in place?

I would love to see some pictures for inspiration...

Thanks!

1.5" or 2" between the 2 holes for each loop. about 8" space between loops. put the knot on the inside looks cleaner and less likely to snag on something.drill the holes in the hull just below the gunnels the same dimension as the p-cord prob 1/8". when I do mine i premark my line for the loops first at 10"-12" then gently cut/melt them by holding over a candle flame. this keeps the ends of the line from fraying and mushrooming. just makes things easier. if its not clear drop me a pm, I'm not far from you

Hole spacing varies, some people prefer 6" or even 4" spacing.
Have you checked out Mike Yee's site? There is some outfitting instructions and images.
http://www.mikeyeeoutfitting.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or if wanting real quick and easy to swap...

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...and can sew? You might make a net from webbing. Use eight grommets and
you could hook six at gunwale level, leaving two end ones to go to d-rings on
bottom. ((Not that I've ever done such before.))

philcanoe wrote:Or if wanting real quick and easy to swap...

• • 

...and can sew? You might make a net from webbing. Use eight grommets and
you could hook six at gunwale level, leaving two end ones to go to d-rings on
bottom. ((Not that I've ever done such before.))

My son and I made a cargo net out of webbing that was very similar to the one in your picture. Used it in our Starburst. Worked great and could be used to cover gear or a centre air bag.

dave