C-Forum

Guys, I have a Grey Owl C-1 paddle that was my back-up before a poorly placed rock-brace took out my primary. The reason I don't prefer the Gray Owl paddle is due to the facts; shaft is VERY stiff, the shaft circumference is too large. Any tips for taking some off the "top" without a ton of hand sanding. I am just looking for a paddle to get me thru the winter until I pony up the dough to replace the Echo stick I broke. Peace...HH

Here's a few simple ideas that will be a lot faster than hand sanding alone. Ask around to see if any of your friends or family has the tools.

Use a draw knife to shave down the shaft (maybe into an oval profile). When you're done knifing, sand with 80 grit, then go to 120. You can go finer than that if you want, but it's optional.

Use a belt sander (preferably a small lightweight one) with 80 grit to do the bulk of the shaping, then hand sand.

Use a wood rasp to do the bulk of the shaping, then hand sand.

Finish with spar varnish.

Use a scraper , with a draw knife or belt sander you could destroy your paddle quickly if you were not very careful. You will have a lot more control and it will go fairly quickly.

Well you can destroy it if you mis-use any tool, but if you take it slow any of the suggestions will work.

What kind of break did you have on your Echo? Shaft? Blade?

I heard Andy's repair rates were pretty reasonable. You might not have to pony up much cash at all.

is the shaft ...

one piece solid ?
or is it laminated ?
or could it have a hollow center ? (yes - some wood do)

Spokeshave

Wonderful little tool, everyone should have one

I use a spokeshave and a low angle block plane. I've done both solid ash and laminated shafts. It's not hard, but the planes have to be properly sharpened and set for small increments.

Whether the Grey Owl gets flexible depends on construction. It's fairly easy, and safe, to shape a solid ash paddle for more flexibility. Laminated paddles can be more difficult. They are inherently stiffer, and trying to hard to get flexibility can result in fragility.

I leave the grip area and the part leading down to the blade fairly thick. I taper the shaft evenly from the grip area up to the handle.

Thanks for the ideas, will be a great help. Unfortunately the break was terminal. It was repaired many times & performed great up until the end. I got 5 years out of it & the failure had nothing to do with paddle construction. Def. was caused by operator error. Would not hesitate to buy another in the future.

Ok, used a drawknife/spokeshave & things worked fine. Thanks for the input. Used spar varnish & that turned out great, also. The only tiny complaint, is the grip just above the blade is slick. The Echo had a sock to help with that & abrasion/strength. I guess I'll just ruff it up some.

thanks again...

hammerhead wrote:Ok, used a drawknife/spokeshave & things worked fine. Thanks for the input. Used spar varnish & that turned out great, also. The only tiny complaint, is the grip just above the blade is slick. The Echo had a sock to help with that & abrasion/strength. I guess I'll just ruff it up some.

thanks again...

Use sex wax on the shaft for better gripping.

That sounds totally inappropriate, but the stuff works great.