C-Forum

I have an aqua bound edge and want to cut it down a couple inches. Any suggestions on how to do this properly?

- removing grip
- cutting
- re attaching grip and making sure it is straight

Thanks!

There should be lots already posted here, use the search feature.

Try heat to get the grip off, but be careful not to damage the shaft. Heat and twist.

Tape and cut the shaft with just about any type of saw. Finer tooth saw should leave a nice cut.

Use a PU glue.

Or paddle lots to wear down the blade!

I used boiling water to soften the glue on my AB.
If it doesn't work and you re taking a couple of inches off, just cut it where you want it and cut/peel the shaft off the T-grip. The t-grip goes 3" into the shaft but as long as you have a couple inches of T-grip to insert, you should be good.

I recently cut off a Werner all carbon that originally had a wood T grip. I cut off two inches of the shaft. There was still about a quarter inch of wood in the shaft to get out. I split the carbon on the wood insert with a dremel tool. I then used a screw driver to break the carbon loose from the wood. It was glued quite well. Werner said it would have to be cut off, that the epoxy couldn't be loosened up. They said to glue it back with slow cure epoxy. I used G/flex. I got all of the original epoxy off and sanded everything with 80 grit. I also put a small piece of foam into the shaft to prevent any possible leak from letting much water in.

At the same time that I cut off the Werner I also cut off an inexpensive metal shaft paddle. I used a fine tooth blade in a jig that kept it and the Werner straight. I cut off about two and a quarter inches off the metal shaft. This T grip was black plastic. It had about two inches in the shaft. I didn't try to remove the metal because I didn't need to use that T grip. I created my own wood insert to go into this shaft. I sanded the inside of the shaft with 80 grit and cleaned it with alcohol. I put a small piece of foam in the shaft and glued the wood insert with G/flex. I let the epoxy dry with the paddles turned upside down to make sure any epoxy stayed around the insert and didn't run down the shaft.

I have been using the paddles but I can't say for sure that they won't come apart.

I removed the T grip from an Aquabound and carbon Echo using a heat gun to weaken the glue. Be carefull because too much heat will soften the carbon shaft creating other problems. If you're shortening the Aquabound, treat yourself to a new, proper sized dowel t grip while you're at it. It's not hard to make yourself and it will be like having a new, much improved paddle.

sounds good. Thanks for the input!

Cut it down last night. Handle came out no problem with boiling water. Couldn't find any of the suggested glues above, but someone at crappy tire told me this would work well.

http://www.biosafe-inc.com/marine.htm

Been ~ 16 hours and it doesn't appear to have bonded well (still moves with little pressure). I sanded both surfaces and cleaned with rubbing alcohol, so it wasn't a prep problem.

What should i do? Any epoxy suggestions for Canadians?

You live close to that big lake, so one would imagine that this is a marina/marine supply store somewhere in the Hamilton/St. Catherines/GTA area. I'd go there and ask for a marine epoxy. That's what I used to do the same thing last year.

Cheers

Chris

Good to know that an Aquabound grip can be removed with light heat; I'd like to replace the cheesy plastic grip on my glass backup with dowel.

I recently tried to remove a plastic grip from a glass Werner shaft, and they are absolutely correct that the epoxy won't budge. The grip melted before the adhesive gave way.

Dave, go back to crappy T and get one of the "plastic weld" 2 part syringe epoxies. These will do the trick.

How long does Amazing GOOP take to dry?
A full cure takes 24 to 72 hours, depending on the surrounding environment. With lower temperatures and higher humidity, cure time increases; with higher temperatures, cure time decreases. To speed drying time, apply heat using a handheld dryer set on low. Hold dryer at least 6 inches from the surface.
http://www.biosafe-inc.com/ag_faqs.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've cut down three or four, having finally accepted that all my paddles were too long (I am 70 in., and now use either a 54 or a 56 depending on the boat I'm in). Heating always got the grip off. Jim Michaud advised me to put the grip end in a plastic bag and put the bag in boiling water for a few minutes; it always worked.

For glue I have used cheap binary epoxy from the hardware store, something that sets relatively fast, say, 15 minutes. Mix it up, fill the hole in the T grip about half way, stick in the shaft, wipe off the excess, leave it there at least 24 hours at the recommended minimum temp or warmer. This will create a waterproof bond. This is very permanent, so make sure everything is the way you want it and that the T grip position is at right angles to the blade, or whatever angle you might like.

DougB wrote:Dave, go back to crappy T and get one of the "plastic weld" 2 part syringe epoxies. These will do the trick.

Thanks Doug. Good to know! I'm going to wait until the full 72 hours is up and see. If not I will for sure give the plastic weld a try. Still feels a bit loose, hoping it will hold up.