C-Forum

I'm putting a bulkhead saddle into my Prelude. The saddle is an Esquif factory model that came out of a L'Edge. I just want to make sure I position it properly. I'm assuming that if I get in the saddle and sit upright, the center of gravity will be directly below the center of my torso. Anyone got tips or suggestions? Thanks!

The old in-the-water test... even if just a muddle puddle.

I've also found it's best to use a video, in lieu of the (very) best intentions of a friend.

As a rough rule, when kneeling and sitting upright your center of mass will wind up somewhere right around your navel, or up to an inch behind it. But it can depend on your femur length and how far your belly sticks out. If you want the boat trimmed neutrally if you feel at the side of your hip joint the bone that is closest to the skin will wind up about 4 1/2 inches aft of center for a symmetrical hull. If you have a pedestal with a fairly vertical back rest you can follow Mike Yee's advice and place it so that the front edge of that upright section is 7 inches aft of center: http://www.mikeyeeoutfitting.com/demo/s ... estrap.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That has worked well for me. You can also use a trial and error approach to fine tune the position. Put a 2x4 or 2x6 crosswise underneath the boat at the exact center so both ends are balanced equally off the ground on a flat surface. Put the loose saddle and kneepads in the boat and carefully climb in without moving it on the support. Position the saddle so that when you kneel with your torso upright it is balanced. In a relatively short boat like the Prelude, when you lean forward the nose should drop down and when you lean back it should rise.

Someone told me about the 2x4 trick some years ago. I tried it when outfitting an Outrage X. I only needed to tilt my head to get the boat to tilt. I just set up a LL Stomper 90 as a C1 that way. I don't think I had to move the saddle from the position that I had figured out with the 2x4. Before I glued it in I did get pictures taken with me paddling around and it looked to be in the right spot to me.

Yes - these two methods will yield a rough approximation; however they do not offer the same amount of precision.

I strive to get to that balance point where my lean will affect trim, so that the bow can be lightened or weighted at will. For me the added step seems to pay real dividends, and is something I believe can only be done by floating (and tested while paddling). I also tend to believe (IMHO) this level of balance also aids control when boofing, which for me is key. Of course this is all subjective and highly personal, as to exactly how bow light -or- heavy -or- neutral you want to be. For me being ever so bow light works best, and is the reason the 2x4 trick didn't quite do it (at least for me).

Would also consider placing whatever extra stuff you carry when testing, in as close an area as where it will usually be. A full water bottle (?), extraction kit (?), spare paddle (?), wet throw rope (?), dry box/bag can make a difference in some of these highly rockered boats. Especially if you do not balance or spread the load out equally.

For me this is time well spent up front, and not redoing upon retrospection. It also seems to yield a cleaner finished product, than subsequent altering or redoing of your outfitting.