C-Forum

I'm replacing my wood gunwales on my Prelude. They're already made and are from ash. I also have an ash board that will be enough to build two deck plates. I figured it's best to cut them into strips and join with a biscuit joiner to prevent warping. I'd like to incorporate another piece or two in there for aesthetics, perhaps something darker. What species would work well? I'm guessing mahogany. What about walnut?

also purple heart

Be careful if using mahogany...this happened to my solid mahogany deck plates after a swim.

Biscuits only aide in alignment. Long grain joints in wood, well prepared, with the right glue (yellow type III) are the standard. Biscuits, take longer, and make assembly more complex. IMHO (25 years master cabinet maker) Consider no decks?

I'd prefer to protect the backside of the bow with anything that supports. all those impacts on Todhunter's wood would have gone right to unprotected plastic.

Although heavy, why not cutting board material?

People like to grab decks as a lift point - make it strong enough to take it or put the carry thwart close (or under) so it's easier to grab

John, what oil did you use on those gunwales?

That's really classy looking, well done!

gumpy wrote:John, what oil did you use on those gunwales?

Joe- Tung oil.

Smurf- Thanks!


BTW, King Starboard (which is basically the same material as most white cutting boards) would make a durable, strong deck plate. I've used it on power boats for years to cover holes or make hatches/accessory holders. Much better than wood for a deck plate but definitely not as attractive

My deck plates say "Caution, wet floor" in Spanish on the underside

I'd adapt or make fiberglass decks. Kaz uses a simple flat FG lamination that screws down to the gunwales and to a mini cross thwart. Light and strong. You can incorporate a layer of Kevlar or polyester if you're concerned about splitting, but being screwed down to the mini thwart, the deck plate is well supported.

It isn't hard to lay up a little deflector lip at the rear of the deck plate to divert some of the splash over the bow.

Suggestion:

If you use wood, choose woods with similar density and porosity.

Example: mahogany and oak would not work well, as density and porosity are wildly different, causing major swelling differences with water absorption and temperature change.

Ash and maple would work, or ash and oak...

Cedar and mahogany would work if laminated in thin strips. Big pieces would be way too weak.

Purpleheart, rosewood and osage orange would be beautiful and strong, but would weigh a LOT.

In any case, thinner pieces (seen from above) would make a stronger deck.

HTH


--al--

I know it wouldn't look great, but what about piece of plywood? I've been thinking about making some plywood deckplates...or just keeping on rolling with no deck plates.

Todhunter wrote:I know it wouldn't look great, but what about piece of plywood? I've been thinking about making some plywood deckplates...or just keeping on rolling with no deck plates.

I've used 1/8" plywood with several coats of tung oil for raceboat deck plates.