T-grip Tenons

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TheKrikkitWars
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T-grip Tenons

Post by TheKrikkitWars »

I've got a mitchell premier which needs shortening, my intitial thought was to cut it off, make 4 cuts to form a square tennon on the shaft and then chop a through mortice in an oak blank, wedge (or draw-bore) the tennon in place and then put it all in the vice andshape the t-grip using gouges, spokeshave and rasps...

However the original grip, (and traditionally most t-grips) have a blind mortice (shaped as a truncated cone) and a tapered tenon held with glue (and a tight fit) as used in traditional chairmaking and wheelwrighting.

The question is, does that traditional approach confer sufficent advantages over using 'normal' joinery, to be worth the effort... i dont have a tapered tenon cutter or tapered reamer, so i'd have to do it with a spokeshave/drawknife and spoon bits
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craig
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by craig »

Wha??
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Smurfwarrior
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by Smurfwarrior »

Taper shaft and secure with waterproof glue with a large cross pin (wooden dowel) has worked well for me.
Silent Bob
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by Silent Bob »

Straight tenon, into a straight mortise. Epoxied in place, it won't go anywhere. A cross pin if you feel like it, but its probably not necessary.
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KNeal
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by KNeal »

As per Davey Hearn's recommendation, I did what Silent Bob posted. Billy Hearn liked to add a little graphite powder to the epoxy before application--not sure how that helped but wanted to add that for ya.
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NickParker
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by NickParker »

I slotted the top of the shaft and glued/screwed in a block that I shaped to my hand. I've been real happy with it, it's way strong and it feels good.

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Mike W.
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by Mike W. »

Pretty work!
NickParker
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Re: T-grip Tenons

Post by NickParker »

Thanks Mike.

To be honest I didn't expect that paddle to last (it's a souped up $25 Caviness Pro after all). I have abused it more than a few times, fully expecting it to break, but it just keeps on ticking.
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