C-Forum

Hello, I need some help. I was given a Mohawk Probe 12 II that needs some work. I am just learning OC. Can anyone give me some advise on the best repair for this boat. Can it be repaired for moving water use or will it only be good for some learning on flat water.

Do you have interior images as well? (inside as well as outside of the boat so we can see how extensive the damage is).

Here are the pictures requested. The interior as well as overall. The damage is located under where the saddle and knee pads are, so I included pictures close as I could of those areas.

Not my expertise, perhaps check the "Repair" forum here.

Royalex is a sandwich material. A vinyl exterior (red) provides a wear layer for the ABS layer (milky white) over a foam core (visible).

You can certainly rebuild the wear layer using a couple layers of fiberglass or Kevlar - like the skid plate on the end - but putting a patch over the whole bottom will make the hull heavier. Discreet patches to protect the foam may be enough depending on the demands you put on the hull.

Patches are stiffer than the hull and may crack or flex differently than the Royalex, particularly on the flatter portions of the hull, and need to be renewed. In short, this boat is probably nearing the latter part of it's lifespan, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't paddle it as is or patch it!

looks like could be repaired with sheet abs patches so that it would last long enough for you to figure out whether you want to do this. would take some time, but works. I am sometimes paddling a Dagger ocoee which was in worse shape than this when it was given to me, and its held up to some rocky runs. some basic info in response to recent abs slurry post (slurry would not work for you)

I just repaired a boat using Legos. Myself I might try using g-flex pre thickened epoxy to cover foam. Let set up for a day. Then cut some fiberglass cloth to cover. Sand away the nylon(red) in the area to be patched since the Legos won't adhere to it. Melt some Legos in acetone, I'd use red. You want to lay many thin layers of the Lego slurry. If you lay thick you will notice pockets of not yet hardened under a hard layer. Lay a thin layer down, lay glass, lay more layers.

Legos are made of a high quality abs as well as the structural part of the royalex. Get a small Mason jar with a good seal, cut up a bunch of Legos into smaller parts, add acetone. You want a consistency of Elmer's glue. If too thick add more acetone, if too thin add more Legos or let vent. It takes about a day to fully desolve so do this in advance. Do not lay the slurry on the foam cause the acetone will eat it up. You will need a bunch of 1 inch brushes, 1 for every layer but they are like 3 for 1$.

Anyway that's what I'd try,. I'm sure there is a bunch of stuff that would work too. I'm pretty new to this but my first learning experience was repair and this is what I did off of other recommendations. It's a free boat, I'd go for it, it might be on it's last legs but hey it's free. Have fun. I did repairing mine and the scar on the boat is a piece of pride for me now.

Not trying to step on anybody's toes John,. I just don't see why Lego slurry wouldn't work as long as the foam is covered by the epoxy. The acetone doesn't eat the epoxy.

I have used both slurry and sheet abs in combination with gflex and other materials. many patches on many boats of my own and for others. best combination for has been formed sheet abs glued on with goop over some filler (gflex, pc-7, layers of goop etc) if needed so there are no voids. better impact resistance and more flexible. slurry by itself does not give structural support, its essentially a wear layer. I have not tried it or gflex with glass, my concern would be with flexibility over a big area like this.
but how boat is used is a significant factor. mine spend all their time on southern mountain streams where rock hits are a constant, and that use certainly is a major factor imo for what its worth.

Does anyone have pictures of their repairs.