Wood gunnels
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Wood gunnels
What are the relative advantages/disadvantages of of oiling gunnels vs. varnishing them? Or should I oil and then varnish?
Re: Wood gunnels
The general view is that an oil finish is preferred over varnish as it can't trap water/moisture under it...that said, I've seen varnished gunnels last a long time and oil finished ones tend to eventually rot from the inside out too. Oil is easier to just reapply as needed warranted whereas I think a varnished system might be more work to upkeep over the long haul?
Re: Wood gunnels
I have used both varnish and oil for gunwales. I regard both as surface treatments. For all the talk about "penetrating oils" if you take a piece of fine sandpaper to wood that has been treated with oil, even many times, you will find that you get down to bare wood very quickly.
I have tended to reserve varnish for gunwales on flat water boats, although I have used varnish on thwarts and seat frames of boats used in whitewater. My reason is that wood gunwales, especially outwales, on whitewater boats tend to get dinged and scratched up pretty quickly. Thwarts and seat frames are more protected. Varnish is a bright finish that looks pretty bad when it is all scratched up.
A big difference is the amount of time initially required to apply the finish, and the durability. Varnish requires considerably more time and effort to initially apply. Many people consider 3 coats of varnish (with wet sanding between coats) as the absolute minimum. Refinishing varnished wood trim that has become checkered requires considerable preliminary sanding to get a nice result.
Oil is very quick and easy to apply or reapply. On the other hand, oil finishes are really not very durable. Boats that are frequently used may need to have the gunwales reoiled several times a year minimally and it is too easy to overlook this or put it off. Varnish, or linear polyurethane finishes last much longer.
I have also used low viscosity epoxy on wood trim covered with marine varnish. Whenever I take the gunwales off a boat, a treat the hidden inner surfaces with varnish, or epoxy and varnish, even if I intend to oil the exterior surfaces, because it lasts longer.
I have tended to reserve varnish for gunwales on flat water boats, although I have used varnish on thwarts and seat frames of boats used in whitewater. My reason is that wood gunwales, especially outwales, on whitewater boats tend to get dinged and scratched up pretty quickly. Thwarts and seat frames are more protected. Varnish is a bright finish that looks pretty bad when it is all scratched up.
A big difference is the amount of time initially required to apply the finish, and the durability. Varnish requires considerably more time and effort to initially apply. Many people consider 3 coats of varnish (with wet sanding between coats) as the absolute minimum. Refinishing varnished wood trim that has become checkered requires considerable preliminary sanding to get a nice result.
Oil is very quick and easy to apply or reapply. On the other hand, oil finishes are really not very durable. Boats that are frequently used may need to have the gunwales reoiled several times a year minimally and it is too easy to overlook this or put it off. Varnish, or linear polyurethane finishes last much longer.
I have also used low viscosity epoxy on wood trim covered with marine varnish. Whenever I take the gunwales off a boat, a treat the hidden inner surfaces with varnish, or epoxy and varnish, even if I intend to oil the exterior surfaces, because it lasts longer.
Re: Wood gunnels
Watco Teak oil is tough stuff. For best results the first time oiling gunnels they should be removed from the boat and heavily soaked on all sides, ends and penetrations. Something else to consider, though I've never done it, is to use a penetrating epoxy such as CPES from rotdoctor.com.. Using the CPES would require the gunnels be removed from the boat.
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