Anyone converted a Dagger CFS? I just finished getting the rail mounted for my seat and thigh straps. I'm heading out to some flatwater tomorrow to trim the boat out. Just looking for suggestions on where to mount the seat. I know some boats, particularly creek boats perform better being ever so slightly stern heavy. I also have an H3 255 and I have it very slightly stern heavy and it works great.
I used a LL seat rail for the conversion. I tied it into the front plastic pillar and used aluminum to mount the piller to the hull at the factory kayak foot bolts. I was worried about tearing the plastic rail with the thigh strap mounts so I reinforced the rail with 1" x 1/8" aluminum. It added very little weight and the whole system is extremely rigid as it all ties back into the front pillar.
Any thoughts on seat placement would be great, especially if you've used the boat for creeks! Thanks! Galen
Dagger CFS Conversion
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chuck naill
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- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
seat position
Do not glue the seat in right away. Depending on your weight the seat could be forward as much as 9-10 inches from the back cockpit rim to prevent stern squirting because of the flat rear deck of the CFS. 
The stern squiting and instability will not show up in low volume water.
Converting these kayaks for the bigger paddler is a process, so be patient.
Take as much weight as possible out of the boat including all kayak hardware. If you think later that it is a keeper and that you will not try to sell as a kayak, you can take a "SureForm" rasp and file the thigh brace wings so that the cock pit is bigger or more round.
Chuck /Knoxville
The stern squiting and instability will not show up in low volume water.
Converting these kayaks for the bigger paddler is a process, so be patient. Take as much weight as possible out of the boat including all kayak hardware. If you think later that it is a keeper and that you will not try to sell as a kayak, you can take a "SureForm" rasp and file the thigh brace wings so that the cock pit is bigger or more round.
Chuck /Knoxville
Thanks Chuck. So I'm assuming you've paddled a CFS for creeking. The kayak thigh braces are actually just bolted to the cockpit in three places and are easily removable. The boat is outfitted except for the seat and some foam around the knees and is extremely light so far.
What is your experience regarding setting the trim in a CFS in flatwater--- level, bow heavy, stern heavy? Also, what did you mean when you said that setting these up for a larger paddler "is a process." I'm 6'4" and weigh about 205. The boat definitely looks a lot smaller sitting next to my H3 255, though supposedly there is only 3-4 gallons difference in volume. Obviously, the CFS is much shorter--approximately 6-7 inches. Thanks for your help.
What is your experience regarding setting the trim in a CFS in flatwater--- level, bow heavy, stern heavy? Also, what did you mean when you said that setting these up for a larger paddler "is a process." I'm 6'4" and weigh about 205. The boat definitely looks a lot smaller sitting next to my H3 255, though supposedly there is only 3-4 gallons difference in volume. Obviously, the CFS is much shorter--approximately 6-7 inches. Thanks for your help.
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chuck naill
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- Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2003 10:44 am
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trimed out
I have not paddled a c-1 CFS. 
THe CFS's come in three sizes depending on the paddlers weight. THe back deck is flat which means keeping the water off the deck is only possible if you either to not bury it or is you are so light that your weight allows that deck to stay above water when paddling. The more you sit forward the more the back deck will be out of the water.
Water on the deck will adversily affect the handling and stability of the boat. Water on the front deck will affect speed as a slalom boater will tell you.
WHen you are in flat water as someone to see if the water line is level from bow to stern. Adjust as needed.
What ever outfitting you choose should always allow you to sit in this balanced position. IF you feel too far back and not balanced, you might be counting trout more often than not.
REgards,
Chuck/Knoxville
YOur problem might be your legs since you can only go forward so much. If the CFS has wings to bolt the thigh braces to, these can be shaved off with a "sure form".
THe CFS's come in three sizes depending on the paddlers weight. THe back deck is flat which means keeping the water off the deck is only possible if you either to not bury it or is you are so light that your weight allows that deck to stay above water when paddling. The more you sit forward the more the back deck will be out of the water.
Water on the deck will adversily affect the handling and stability of the boat. Water on the front deck will affect speed as a slalom boater will tell you.
WHen you are in flat water as someone to see if the water line is level from bow to stern. Adjust as needed.
What ever outfitting you choose should always allow you to sit in this balanced position. IF you feel too far back and not balanced, you might be counting trout more often than not.
REgards,
Chuck/Knoxville
YOur problem might be your legs since you can only go forward so much. If the CFS has wings to bolt the thigh braces to, these can be shaved off with a "sure form".
I'm not sure if we're talking about the same boat..............The CFS was only made in a 7'10", 75 gallon version. Dagger replaced it with the Nomad creekboat this last year, which is available in multiple sizes.
Due to the short overall length, I can understand why you would say that it would be easy to be too stern heavy despite the 75gal. volume. I guess I'll find out soon! I am going with a 6 inch saddle height (my H3 has a 7 inch saddle height) to try and offset some of the issues with a tippier, more sensitive to trim boat.
Thanks!
Due to the short overall length, I can understand why you would say that it would be easy to be too stern heavy despite the 75gal. volume. I guess I'll find out soon! I am going with a 6 inch saddle height (my H3 has a 7 inch saddle height) to try and offset some of the issues with a tippier, more sensitive to trim boat.
Thanks!
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chuck naill
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- Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2003 10:44 am
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What am I thinking
I was thinking of the Dagger RPM, forgive my inattention.
THe principles that I explained are valid and come from my ownexperiances converting my Dagger GT 8.1
Do whatever you must to rid the boat of excess weight and make .
Sorry again for the confusing comments
Chuck/Knoxville