Phoenix Seewum outfitting and paddle questions
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WarrenSandy
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:48 pm
Phoenix Seewum outfitting and paddle questions
Well, I just bought the Phoenix Seewum (not Seda Phoenix) discussed in my previous post. The seller thought Seda was the manufacturer because he had a Seda sprayskirt. The boat is in good shape, but the outfitting is pretty sparse. I sure would like any advice someone might have regarding improving the outfitting in this boat. I have a book "Outfitting Your Canoe or C-1" by Charlie Walbridge, but it is virtually useless with regards to C-1s in general and this one specifically as it isn't a conversion. There are attachment points for thigh straps on the floor and sides and knee cups. No toe blocks. It seems a bit tight as I kneel in it as is, and the thigh straps (NRS 1" straps) almost curl back under my knee with the floor attachment point placed as it is. I'm 5'10" and 170 lbs. Also wouldn't mind some guidance on the appropriate paddle for this boat. Thanks, Warren
On the paddle, don't go under 58" if you use a slalom type blade.
I set up my Seewun with knee blocks so my knees would not swim around. These blocks are wedges of foam glued to the center pillar. I am much taller and heavier than you, so I have never needed toe blocks. When upside down, my thighs are supported both by the thigh straps and by the inside of the small cockpit rim.
The Seewun is somewhat of a forward cockpit boat. If you don't believe it, visit See Boats on the Seewun or Zealot site and check out my Seewun behind my Zealot. At my height and weight, the cockpit is a bit too far forward, and if I lean forward, the bow buries and the stern waves around behind it. At your weight, this should not be a problem, though I think the designer (Kent Ford, rather small fellow) did not anticipate that future c-boaters would not sit upright when hammering through rapids. Certainly if you choose to do overnights in this boat, you can put a good deal of the gear in the stern.
The main thing about the thigh strap mounts is that the upper mount should be back toward your hip joint, and the front mount should be up toward your knee, so that the straps pass diagonally over the thigh, not at 90 degrees. This distributes the force better, and allows easier entry and exit. The rear connection will be near the seam line, not higher. The front connection should be pretty much straight below the inner side of your thigh, or perhaps just slightly outward from that. I can't tell from your description whether your strap mounts are ok or not. Check out the outfitting pictures on cboats.net and compare to your situation.
I set up my Seewun with knee blocks so my knees would not swim around. These blocks are wedges of foam glued to the center pillar. I am much taller and heavier than you, so I have never needed toe blocks. When upside down, my thighs are supported both by the thigh straps and by the inside of the small cockpit rim.
The Seewun is somewhat of a forward cockpit boat. If you don't believe it, visit See Boats on the Seewun or Zealot site and check out my Seewun behind my Zealot. At my height and weight, the cockpit is a bit too far forward, and if I lean forward, the bow buries and the stern waves around behind it. At your weight, this should not be a problem, though I think the designer (Kent Ford, rather small fellow) did not anticipate that future c-boaters would not sit upright when hammering through rapids. Certainly if you choose to do overnights in this boat, you can put a good deal of the gear in the stern.
The main thing about the thigh strap mounts is that the upper mount should be back toward your hip joint, and the front mount should be up toward your knee, so that the straps pass diagonally over the thigh, not at 90 degrees. This distributes the force better, and allows easier entry and exit. The rear connection will be near the seam line, not higher. The front connection should be pretty much straight below the inner side of your thigh, or perhaps just slightly outward from that. I can't tell from your description whether your strap mounts are ok or not. Check out the outfitting pictures on cboats.net and compare to your situation.
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WarrenSandy
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:48 pm
More outfitting questions
Thanks ezwater for the good advice. I took the Seewum out on flat water for its maiden voyage. I really enjoyed paddling it, especially appreciating it's speed. Unfortunately, I could not roll the thing. Having rolled kayaks for years this was a bit of a blow to my ego. I won't be hitting the river until I feel confident with my roll. Oh well, back to the drawing board. I have Kent Ford's old C-1 video and that is what I was using to direct my rolling efforts. I'm pretty sure the failure was a combination of getting down the new (to me) technique and improving the outfitting. I noticed when I attempted to role that my hips were coming out of the boat. Today, I cut the seat down 2" to a height of 4-1/2" and shaved the seat back almost to the coming. This is because as you said the cockpit does seem a bit too forward. Also, the existing knee cups just fit if I scootch back as far as I can. I may have to move the knee cups eventually, but first I'll see if the other adjustments will work. I'm pretty sure the thigh straps will also have to be moved. The floor attachment points are about 8" back from my knee cap and the side attachment points are in line with the rear coming. Thus the straps cross my thighs too high up and don't seem to hold be in the boat very well. Never having worked with fiberglass do you have any recommendations for what to use to install new anchors for the straps (glue and materials)? Also would hip pads help? I noticed the seat and the entire center pillar which the seat is glued to is not glued to the floor. As a matter of fact, I pulled the entire thing out when I found this out to complete shaving down the seat. I was wondering would this be a problem at all with regards to keeping me firmly in the boat? It doesn't appear to move much when it is pinched between the bow and stern pillars. One more question. I'm used to plastic boats which I can just throw on the car rack and strap them down. Short of buying a set of those fancy saddles, do you have any low cost ideas for modifying my load bars so that they're a little gentler on the boat. Your comments are appreciated.