I picked up a Dagger Ocoee a few months back and I'm getting a lot more comfortable in the boat now and starting to make a few outfitting changes. As background, the boat has wood gunnels, the ends are cut 4" and the boat is pinched 2". There are 3 thwarts in the boat, the first 2 right where you would expect them, the third against the back of the pedestal.
I've had a few "issues" getting in or out of the boat due to the thwart being there and seriously considering taking it out. Is this a good idea, or will this compromise the structure of the boat? Maybe if I get a roll down and bulletproof, it won't be too much of an issue, but I've flipped twice while trying to re-enter the boat because I couldn't get my leg under the dang thing.
Thwart/brace behind pedestal?
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If you take out that thwart you will loose the bracing of the top of your saddle. It might start to wobble because it is then only glued to the bottom. This will negatively influence the overall contact you have to your boat.
I've a friend who moved that thwart backward about 4 to 6" and extended it back towards the top of the saddle (saddle width...) with a piece of plywood (or similar). Hence you retain more legroom and don't loose the stability of the upper end of the saddle.
I've a friend who moved that thwart backward about 4 to 6" and extended it back towards the top of the saddle (saddle width...) with a piece of plywood (or similar). Hence you retain more legroom and don't loose the stability of the upper end of the saddle.
I have never had problems with my saddle "moving" or "wobbling" because there was not a thwart on it. I have however found boats with the thwart connected to the saddle incredibly uncomfortable and annoying. Ditch the thwart or move it, it doesn't need to be on the saddle. If the saddle is glued in properly you will have no problems and you won't get rammed with a thwart every time you move.
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yarnellboat
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A third thwart like you mention usually has more to do with the saddle than the structure of the boat; so, you could remove it if it's in your way.
I have an extra thwart behind/over my saddle because I like to have something fixed to lean/brace against.
It's a disadvantage if you find it impeding your exit or entry, but mine has never bothered me.
Although it seems common, I don't attach my saddle to the thwart, because with the foam wedged between the hull and the thwart you take some of hull's flexibility away, and enhance how hard you wear the hull beneath your saddle. Elsewhere on this forum people have referred to this as having "a floating saddle".
My extra thwart is there mostly to improve contact. Perhaps it helps with wobble too, because I don't find my saddle wobbles. Some have mentioned combatting wobble by adding foam or wood blocks under the thwart to "bookend" the saddle - you could do that and still keep the saddle floating.
P.
I have an extra thwart behind/over my saddle because I like to have something fixed to lean/brace against.
It's a disadvantage if you find it impeding your exit or entry, but mine has never bothered me.
Although it seems common, I don't attach my saddle to the thwart, because with the foam wedged between the hull and the thwart you take some of hull's flexibility away, and enhance how hard you wear the hull beneath your saddle. Elsewhere on this forum people have referred to this as having "a floating saddle".
My extra thwart is there mostly to improve contact. Perhaps it helps with wobble too, because I don't find my saddle wobbles. Some have mentioned combatting wobble by adding foam or wood blocks under the thwart to "bookend" the saddle - you could do that and still keep the saddle floating.
P.
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sdbrassfield
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For people with longer legs, ditch the thwart across the back of the saddle. Especially if you are getting your feet caught in the boat during wet exits. Its not fun, and not to mention unsafe having to ride rapids while hung up in the boat thwart and riggings by your feet. Great way to twist a knee, break a leg, or worse.
You will not notice much more if any difference in flex in the saddle, especially if you have a wider 6-9" saddle with ample length. Your saddle will not flex noticeably, and you will not gouge the bottom of your canoe as bad beneath the saddle area.
You will not notice much more if any difference in flex in the saddle, especially if you have a wider 6-9" saddle with ample length. Your saddle will not flex noticeably, and you will not gouge the bottom of your canoe as bad beneath the saddle area.
SYOTR