glue
Moderators: kenneth, sbroam, TheKrikkitWars, Mike W., Sir Adam, KNeal, PAC, adamin
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- C Maven
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- sbroam
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Weldwood in the red can, make sure it is not the water soluble kind (different color can).
A bunch of us are saying the same thing, it's just coming out different.
A bunch of us are saying the same thing, it's just coming out different.
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http://picasaweb.google.com/scott.broam/CanoeOutfitting
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- C Maven
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- CBoats Addict
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glue
remember- its not uncommon to go through 2 quarts a year-
Industrial grade only. The stuff that you can high (low) on.
I think you guys have a problem.remember- its not uncommon to go through 2 quarts a year-
I'll add that a heat gun or hair dryer can speed up the process for those impatient ones like me.
I also find that less is more when it comes to glue. If you lay it on too thick, your outfitting tends to peel off.
I typically sand both surfaces (foam and plastic) well using a course grit paper (~60 grit) and use two very thin coats on each surface. I dry each coat with a heat gun before sticking the foam to the plastic surface. A little bit of pressure when placing the foam on plastic surface seems to make things stick better.
One more vote for the red Weldwood contact cement. I also buy some cheap paintbrushes for one time use.
Ventilation is to your personal preference.
- sbroam
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Brushes? We don't need no steenking brushes - just use those inevitable little scraps of minicell - dip them in the glue and use them like a squeegee. This helps get a nice thin layer spread out quickly. I find a piece of foam lasts several applications. Also, I've been using the Weldwood gel, it is thicker and maybe it stays in place better for vertical applications (i.e. up the sides), maybe it dries faster, maybe it is less messy (fewer drips), maybe that is all just my imagination...
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- C Maven
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- Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 2:39 am
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