Cockpit Rim Replacement

[DaveP]

Ok, so I am taking Rick's advice and just doing what I can to get my current boat in semi-floating condition (currently acting somewhere between a rock and neutral bouyancy!). The new boat thing will have to wait for a bit anyway, which will hopefully give me a chance to try some of your boats out.... I would reciprocate the offer but you would laugh.

So, here is the biggest problem (I think)- my cockipit rim is broken and missing several large pieces. The deck is fine, it is just the rim for the sprayskirt. This is a fiberglass boat, info beyond that is beyond my current knowledgebase. It appears as though the rim is possibly carbon-fiber (maybe just glass that is black). Needless to say, with my limited knowledge, it seems as though the current rim is beyond help and will need to be pulled out. The gaps seem to be too large and cracks too numerous to use the existing rim as a base. I have looked around for info but am not finding anything particularly pertaining to rims. Any knowledge/instructions/direction to info would be much appreciated.

Thanks again,

DaveP

[Sir Adam]

I've built a few rims using foam and hose as templates, and can describe the process to you. Or, if some of the rim is still there, sand it good and use THAT as you're base.

Regardless, a few hints for now...
Put plastic wrap (aka Saran Wrap) on any part you DON"T want resin on (great for the deck under the cockpit rim)

Sand everything VERY well=it should be cleaned, then "roughed up"

Use WEST Systems epoxy (from John Sweet)...easy, and the "right" way to do it.

There may be a rim I repaired at the armada as well, as an example....

[Space Canoe]

I wouldn't tear that rim out just yet. Can you send me a pic? One of the boat and one of the rim would be nice. If you buy the resin from John Sweet, ask him also. He's probably forgotten more than the rest of us know.
Ric

[Guest]

Dave,

I think that Walbridge's Boat Builder's Manual has some good hints. If you decide to do a complete rim, I wouldn't use carbon - too stiff. 5 oz. glass works best. Cut the strips at a 45 degree angle to the weave. It will allow the fabric to conform around the compound curves. *Be careful handling the pieces after cutting - they will stretch easily.