Footpegs and Bulkhead for C1 conversion

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oopsiflipped
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Footpegs and Bulkhead for C1 conversion

Post by oopsiflipped »

So far the plan I've hatched to convert my Big Ez is this... (I don't know jack about this so feel free to shoot holes in my plan)

Use factory minicell pillars to attach 4" PVC fence post from Home Depot (easiest to order online?). Factory bolt holes for seat to attach a 2" aluminum strap to further secure structural rail. Pad underneath rail with minicell scraps.

Attach moveable saddle based on the one in the Outfitting link.

Yakima footpegs also attached to rail.

Bulkhead in the front to further stabilize rail and in place of thigh straps.

Hip pads - probably not as fancy as the awesome set on the SupaStar that was posted.

I was thinking if I get it fitting right I should be able to wet exit when neccessary but still in tight enough to "throw down" (if i ever learn how)

Any feedback on my first conversion plan would be great.

Gabe
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yakimas

Post by Aric »

I've always found just a foam pad for my ankles and letting my feet rest flat much more comfortable in decked boats. In open boats I do like the yakimas though. In a big ez you may not heve enough room for the rails. A quick and cheap setup for hip pads is to use plastic cutting board that you bend with a propane torch. you just heat it up and bend it to the shape you want and then glue minicell on after it cools. You then use the seat bolt holes to attatch your pads.


Good luck

Aric
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Mike W.
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Here comes Mike with a big ol' shotgun...

Post by Mike W. »

oopsiflipped wrote:feel free to shoot holes in my plan
I'm not trying to knock your ideas. I've got a Big EZ & I think that you're putting WAY too much into this, both time & materials. If you don't want thigh straps there is no need for the fence rail. There really is no need for the foot pegs either. The only advantage that I see to your set up is the adjustable seat. Don't get me wrong, an adjustable seat sounds really cool, but I think once you get your trim set you probably wouldn't mess with it anymore.

If you want, I can measure my Big EZ & let you know where my back-rest is. That will give you a starting point for trimming the boat. You may like where mine is or you may want to set yours a little differently.

Once you get the trim set, glue in the seat. See where your knees land & pad that area. Build a bulkhead. Make ankle/shin pads as you like. Make hip pad mounts from a cutting board & pad w/ mini-cell. Go paddle :D If you want a lap-belt, attach it to the front bolts for the K-1 seat.

I don't have good pics of my Big EZ, but I did my Forplay the same way. Here are photos: http://new.photos.yahoo.com/wh20crazy/a ... 2349975259
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oopsiflipped
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Post by oopsiflipped »

I suspected I was getting carried away....

What do you mean by trim?

How do I figure out where to put the saddle if I am just going to glue it to the hull rather than using a rail?

Thanks.,
Gabe
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Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

Trim is how you balance the boat front to back. Where your back-rest is will determine trim. I'll measure mine tomorrow & let you know where it is.

I suggest putting the saddle where mine is w/o glueing it in. Paddle around & see how you like it. Move it foreward & back & paddle around some more. Have your buddies look at it. Find where you like it best & glue it in.
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Post by mshelton »

You can still use the fence post even if you don't use straps, it adds a little structure to the boat, although I'd recomend straps.

As for adding lateral stability to the post, don't sweat it at all. You really don't need to add any. If you think about it, your butt is going to be planted on the saddle and your hips (connected to the butt) are going to be held in place by the hip grabbers, so there isn't going to be any where for the post to go in the back. In the front it will be held in by the knee blocks which will be held down by your knees which will be held down by a bulkhead, straps or both. Again not a lot room for play there.

I did the same thing when I first converted an H3, I put some strips of ABS in for lateral bracing, also did some fore and aft bracing. The result was a center post that wouldn't budge a mm, then I realized with me in there and packed and strapped down to, it wouldn't go anywhere anyhow. From what I've found, just using the foam or plastic pillars is sufficent, provided that they press snugly down.

just my $.02
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Post by cadster »

I understand the convenience of bulkheads for open boats, but you have to fiddle with a skirt anyway with a decked boat. The ability to escape a decked boat is already reduced from an OC, using a bulkhead versus straps makes it even harder.

I’d never block my toes in a C-1 because it’s not necessary for a tight fit and it makes getting out much harder.

Is there a structural reason to us bulkheads in a conversion?
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Post by mshelton »

I've never noticed any increased difficulty in exiting a boat with a bulkhead vs one without and I use both bulkheads and straps in some boats.

The main benefit I see with a bulkhead is that you are going to be throwing a C1 around a lot in playing, squirting, stalling, spinning, throwing ends, etc... so the bulkhead keeps the front part of your legs stable allowing any force exerted from your legs to be applied directly on the boat instead of sloshing around down there, this will make the boat more responsive.

If you just plan on paddling down river with very little play then you may not want a bulkhead. I had one in my Burn that I took out because it didn't really serve any purpose (cept the roll seemed slightly more responsive) and I found it to be uncomfortable.

Try different setups, you never know what you may like.
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cadster
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Post by cadster »

Bulkheads don’t have any kind of release built in, whereas straps inherently can be loosened (or cut in an emergency). The risk of getting stuck is increased the further up your thighs the bulkhead goes.
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Post by sbroam »

I've used C-1s with :

only a bulkhead - Slasher
only straps - lots - Rockit, Maverick (slalom), Cascade, etc...
both - Ultraclean, Score (same system in both boats actually)

Never had a problem exiting, but in the latter case, my bulkhead is lower on my leg. Similar in the intent, if not identical in execution, to what Marshall put in the Superstar conversion he recently posted.

I put foot pegs in one C-1 because I'll try most anything once. I took them out almost immediately and won't do it again - in OC-1 I paddle with my feet flat and the balls of my feet pushed on the pegs. I tried that in the C-1. First rock I floated over flexed the hull up pinching me between hull and peg - I thought I was going to lose my toes. I never have seen the need for them since in a C-1.
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Post by Mike W. »

The distance from my back to the outside edge of the back of the cockpit rim is 9". That would be a good starting point. Try it there & see what you think.

I've never had a problem getting out of any of my bulkheads. It does take a bit longer to get out of my lap-belts. Set up your boat in whatever style you are comfortable with. Whenever you change something have a buddy spot you while you swim out. You never know when that paddle will break & you'll have to swim out of the boat.
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