so if anybody knows outfitters in Cali or close by somewheres that would be cool 
-bryce
ohh i w
Who outfits in California?
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Ocoee Boater
- Pain Boater
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2003 5:11 am
- Location: Sierras, California Side!!!
Who outfits in California?
I know Space Canoe and Cone Bone have great ideas for outfitting and all but I dont know if I'll have the time with school. I know i can drop it off with someone but i just dont have the time so if anybody knows outfitters in Cali or close by somewheres that would be cool
-bryce
ohh i w
so if anybody knows outfitters in Cali or close by somewheres that would be cool -bryce
ohh i w
You can pick your friends
You can pick your nose
But you cant pick your friend's nose!
You can pick your nose
But you cant pick your friend's nose!
goin back to cali
wow bryce, you must really like the ocoee if you drive all the way from cali!
Alden
Alden
order the dagger pedestal, about 3' of 3" foam, and 2-3' of 1" foam, and a sheet of 1/8" foam. Outfitting with the dagger saddle requires much less time. Each of my conversions takes less time, but the longest one took less than 5 hours. You can easily make that kinda time right? Otherwise you may not even have time to paddle your new toy
Also, not too long ago there was a dagger saddle in the for sale forum. It likely already had the requesite foam added, and was less than a new saddle. Check it out... I can't imagine that any outfitting done by someone other than you would fit just how you want it, so you'll save some time by going ahead and doing it yourself the first time
Tim
Also, not too long ago there was a dagger saddle in the for sale forum. It likely already had the requesite foam added, and was less than a new saddle. Check it out... I can't imagine that any outfitting done by someone other than you would fit just how you want it, so you'll save some time by going ahead and doing it yourself the first time
Tim
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Space Canoe
- C Guru
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:20 am
- Location: Los Angeles
WELL....
Yeh, amen to Tim on that, Bryce. You’re gonna have to be there in person for a large part of the outfitting. That is, finding your saddle height/knee width/saddle-toe block-thigh strap-seatbelt position. It’s basically: slide into everything, duct tape it. Get out. Re-arrange everything. Try it again. And again. .And again……… then you take it to flatwater and test it there for tightness in the “Combat mode”, and escapability.. Then you glue and pray that you didn’t forget everything. It’s part of the dues of seeking the Radiance, I suppose. The Dagger idea might be a good idea. You can always tighten and re-invent after the school year is over or at semester break.
Hope that this helps;
Ric Taylor
Hope that this helps;
Ric Taylor
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Hutch
duct tape
I hate to admit it (being a big fan of Garrison Kellor, Red Green and Jim and Tim (the Duct Tape Guys)) but I find that two-sided outdoor carpet tape works better than duct tape for holding outfitting in on a temporary basis. Just don't get lulled into thinking it will hold permanently, because that's just when it will let go, especially if your paddling the Ottawa, eh Martyn?.
Hutch
Hutch
-
Space Canoe
- C Guru
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2003 9:20 am
- Location: Los Angeles
WELL....
Bryce;
I think the problem for most of us is Time, so don't be too upset. But you need to be careful with the installation of all of this, since you'd like to be as correct as possible the first time. That said, you're probably going to have to do some "renegotiation" of a few things after about 2-3 months of paddling with any set up.
Anyway, here's how I go about setting up a basic foam setup.First, you need to get your basic seat height. If you have a seat from another C-1 that is already comfortable, then you can just generally copy that, and pop it into your new boat. If you don't have any idea, I just stick a 1 inch piece of foam on top of a series of approximately 2 ft. long 2 by 4's laid on top of each other until you have an approximate comfort/balance level; then measure the height. Do this in the boat cockpit if you can, since kneeling on just any flat surface won't give you quite the same feeling. Most of my seats are three pieces of three inch foam; that is, nine inches wide rather than six inches wide. I have basically no butt at all; I wish I were as gutless as I am buttless!. You might also have a little more of a back to this pedestal, since you don't want to slide back out of it when you're upside down.
Then, you take your seat and boat to a pool with a friend and have them eyeball where the boat looks balanced front and back, with all your gear that you going to carry in the boat (in the position that you think it will be in the boat). Put your toe blocks and kneepads and footpads and thigh-straps, etc., in and have your friend outline with a marker where those are going to be. That is, they will reach inside the cockpit of the boat and mark around you where you are sitting at, rather than you trying to do it yourself since in the process of your trying to mark the boat you'll shift position enough so that it won't be right. Then you go back and spot-glue everything in the first time with contact cement. This means that you just put a little (approximately 1 inch) circle of contact cement on each corner of your pedestal and pads. It will work fine for a couple of test paddles since all of your weight is pushing these articles down onto the surface of the boat rather than pulling away from the surface of the boat. Then Duct tape the holy be -Jeesus out of your thighs strap holders/lap belt, whatever. This will hold for about 2-5 big jerks and then they will pull loose, but they will give you the idea of where they should be for maximum performance/escapability. Accent Grave over ESCAPABILITY, by the way!.
The it's back to the pool, and try everything at again with your spray-skirt on.
Once you think that you have a fairly good idea of where everything should go, you can glue them in. I use something from 3M. It's called Scotch-Grip Plastic Adhesive 4693 H. It's basically contact cement from beyond the depths of hades. Once you get it on, it's not going to come loose ever. This is good and bad depending on how much more adjusting you're going to need to do. So be sure with this, because what you've glued in will not come out easily, since it will bond so well. In fact, I had to pull some foam off of my cockpit because I was going to heat it and jack it up so that I could get under it easier, and I ended up leaving a very small section of foam on the boat. In other words, I pulled the foam off of the foam that remained attached to the glue, rather than the foam and glue off of the boat.
For the thighs strap/lap belt you'll need a stronger glue. Again, 3M pretty much makes everything; in point of fact, they now have a glue specifically for linear polyethylene. It's called DP 8005 and it will glue almost anything (including concrete) to linear polyethylene. You gotta love the paddling industry; for years these idiots have been telling us that nothing works when gluing linear polyethylene, and it took me all of 7-8 minutes to find this stuff. Contact the 3M distributor near you and I'll bet they will have something that will work quite well for your situation. In point of fact, when I did all of my stuff about 2 years ago, they were talking about making one that took about twice as long to set up, which would give you much more ease of installation. As I recall, it was a bitch to work with, since you had the use a specific glue gun to mix the A and B parts correctly, and the set up time was around two minutes or so. But it worked, and has worked for me so far, knock on wood.
Anyway, I Hope this helps, be sure to check it out thoroughly with their technicians, and feel free to ask any other questions.
Ric Taylor
I think the problem for most of us is Time, so don't be too upset. But you need to be careful with the installation of all of this, since you'd like to be as correct as possible the first time. That said, you're probably going to have to do some "renegotiation" of a few things after about 2-3 months of paddling with any set up.
Anyway, here's how I go about setting up a basic foam setup.First, you need to get your basic seat height. If you have a seat from another C-1 that is already comfortable, then you can just generally copy that, and pop it into your new boat. If you don't have any idea, I just stick a 1 inch piece of foam on top of a series of approximately 2 ft. long 2 by 4's laid on top of each other until you have an approximate comfort/balance level; then measure the height. Do this in the boat cockpit if you can, since kneeling on just any flat surface won't give you quite the same feeling. Most of my seats are three pieces of three inch foam; that is, nine inches wide rather than six inches wide. I have basically no butt at all; I wish I were as gutless as I am buttless!. You might also have a little more of a back to this pedestal, since you don't want to slide back out of it when you're upside down.
Then, you take your seat and boat to a pool with a friend and have them eyeball where the boat looks balanced front and back, with all your gear that you going to carry in the boat (in the position that you think it will be in the boat). Put your toe blocks and kneepads and footpads and thigh-straps, etc., in and have your friend outline with a marker where those are going to be. That is, they will reach inside the cockpit of the boat and mark around you where you are sitting at, rather than you trying to do it yourself since in the process of your trying to mark the boat you'll shift position enough so that it won't be right. Then you go back and spot-glue everything in the first time with contact cement. This means that you just put a little (approximately 1 inch) circle of contact cement on each corner of your pedestal and pads. It will work fine for a couple of test paddles since all of your weight is pushing these articles down onto the surface of the boat rather than pulling away from the surface of the boat. Then Duct tape the holy be -Jeesus out of your thighs strap holders/lap belt, whatever. This will hold for about 2-5 big jerks and then they will pull loose, but they will give you the idea of where they should be for maximum performance/escapability. Accent Grave over ESCAPABILITY, by the way!.
The it's back to the pool, and try everything at again with your spray-skirt on.
Once you think that you have a fairly good idea of where everything should go, you can glue them in. I use something from 3M. It's called Scotch-Grip Plastic Adhesive 4693 H. It's basically contact cement from beyond the depths of hades. Once you get it on, it's not going to come loose ever. This is good and bad depending on how much more adjusting you're going to need to do. So be sure with this, because what you've glued in will not come out easily, since it will bond so well. In fact, I had to pull some foam off of my cockpit because I was going to heat it and jack it up so that I could get under it easier, and I ended up leaving a very small section of foam on the boat. In other words, I pulled the foam off of the foam that remained attached to the glue, rather than the foam and glue off of the boat.
For the thighs strap/lap belt you'll need a stronger glue. Again, 3M pretty much makes everything; in point of fact, they now have a glue specifically for linear polyethylene. It's called DP 8005 and it will glue almost anything (including concrete) to linear polyethylene. You gotta love the paddling industry; for years these idiots have been telling us that nothing works when gluing linear polyethylene, and it took me all of 7-8 minutes to find this stuff. Contact the 3M distributor near you and I'll bet they will have something that will work quite well for your situation. In point of fact, when I did all of my stuff about 2 years ago, they were talking about making one that took about twice as long to set up, which would give you much more ease of installation. As I recall, it was a bitch to work with, since you had the use a specific glue gun to mix the A and B parts correctly, and the set up time was around two minutes or so. But it worked, and has worked for me so far, knock on wood.
Anyway, I Hope this helps, be sure to check it out thoroughly with their technicians, and feel free to ask any other questions.
Ric Taylor