Repair cracking inside royalex Outrage

[yarnellboat]

Hi,

I've got some cracking on the inside of my hull, from a d-ring just infront of my saddle. It's inside only, maybe 4" in size.

Should I drill the ends of the cracks to ensure the cracks don't propogate?

If I need to remove the d-ring to do a proper repair of the cracking, how do i do that and what are the risks of heat or grinding?

Or, should I just repair the crackin front, but leave the d-ring?

Once drilled, exposed and cleaned, can I just add cloth and epoxy resin, or should I fill crack first with somekind of royalex putty?

Once I do cloth & resin, will it be difficult (or stupid) to re-install outfitting over that area at some point in the future?

Thanks, P.

[Jan_dettmer]

Hej,

Epoxy works but is not great since it is so rigid compared to Roya.3M Urethane Bond works better but is also expensive.

I would glue it and then glue outfitting on top of it.

On my last trip, my Revelation was leaking, I glued it with Super glue. it worked but was not great since it always cracks. The same can happen if you use kevlar skid plates on a Roaya boat. But in the end, you can always glue it again and again and again...

So you found an OC now?

[yarnellboat]

Hi Jan,

Yes, after searching high and low around the NW & BC for a cheap, modern OC (my previous boat was the 14', v-entry, min rocker, very, very heavy, OT Otter), and after missing out on a $US 500 Probe 12 in Seattle and passing on a couple of $US 750-900 Ovations, I came across this $US 350 Outrage! Pacific Water Sports in Seattle went out of business, this was a rental.

When you say you just glue the cracks, what are you using? Marine Goop? VinylTec? Is your advice to just fill the cracks with glue (or the more expensive filler) and don't worry about it?

Do you drill the terminus of the crack?

How could I/should I remove the original d-ring?

P.

[Jan_dettmer]

Hej,

Good price and a fast boat.

...3M Urethan Bond is the best! But it is expensive. Depending on the crack, you can add some Kevlar or glass (easier to sand).
I never drilled the crack but it might be a good idea.

I use a heatgun to take out outfitting.

If you think the 3M stuff is too expensive, Epoxy works but it is stiff and will crack easier.
If you use epoxy you combine a stiff and a flexible material...

Why did it crack, is it old and brittle already? If so, I would avois sunlight when storing.

[Jim Michaud]

My suggestion is to cover the cracks with a piece of vinyl. I was able to obtain some scrap vinyl from a raft manufacturer and I've been using it to repair the cracks inside the boat. Just glue it on with Vynabond like you would a D-ring patch. My cracks happen due to running steep creeks in an OC-1. It's not due to age because my canoes wear out in about a year.

I think that I'm going to try to buy some large sheets of vinyl and glue it down before I start outfitting my next canoe.

[yarnellboat]

Jan, I hope it's not brittle, only time will tell. The vinyl of the hull looks great inside & out, with the exception of these small (4")cracks that look to be caused from the stress of an outfitting anchor (they start alongside a d-ring). Though the air bags and gunwales do show that the boat was stored outside.

I think I'll go with 1. removing the offending d-ring by heat &/or grinding, 2. drilling the crack-ends, 3. filling with 3M Bond for starters, 4. do without replacing the anchor there for now, and 5. keep vinyl or epoxy & glass for later if it looks like it needs support in the future.

The guy offered to thro in some Voyageur repair putty and a kevlar patch, but I forgot to get it! Oh well, he did throw in a brand new nylon air bag!

If anyone would do anything different with such a crack, I'd gladly accept more opinions.

Jim, why a vinyl patch instead of epoxy - better flex? less mess?

P.

[MotorCityOC-1]

Hey P,

This Summer I found a 10-12cmlong rip in the inside hull of my Ovation. The rip was through the ABS all the way down to the foam core, along the inside edge of a vinyl "D ring" patch. It was the D ring patch for a thigh strap, and it looked like the patch tried to rip out from impact (good sized drop?) but couldn't cuz it was too well bonded to the hull- so the hull ripped!

I cut away as little of the vinyl patch as I could get away with and still get at the ripped part of the hull. Then I beveled the edges of the rip with a sharp straight blade (drummel tool would be better). I filled the crack (now a long hole) with PC-7 epoxy paste (apparently some folks prefer J.B. Weld), smoothed it out, let it set overnight. Then I epoxied in a 15 X 20cm piece of Kevlar felt from a skidplate kit- some of which covers the good part of the hull, some over the repaired area, and some over the remaining vinyl patch, right up to where the nylon webbing for the thigh strap starts.

Not wanting to waste the majority of the kevlar felt, I cleverly used the rest as an actual skid plate. BTW, I am now a big fan of the Saran Wrap/cling film trick!

One corner of the kevlar patch has started to come up, due to the fact that the hull will flex but the skidplate material won't, but other than that it has held up nicely (as far as I know, considering I can't see under there).

I also had some small cracks just forward of the pedestal, also on the inside of the hull. I gave them the same treatment, except instead of kevlar felt I covered the area with a scrap of vinyl pool liner, which is roughly the same thickness as a D ring patch. Hey Presto! I no longer have to look at the cracks! They at least haven't lengthened beyond the patch area.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

[dixie_boater]

I use Marine grade goop to prevent cracks from spreading. First make sure water has not soaked into the foam core around the crack. If it has allow the hull to dry out in a room or basement. To prevent the crack from spreading drill a 1/8" dia. hole at each end. Be careful to drill through the inner ABS substrate only and not the foam core. I use an adjustable drill stop to prevent the drill from making to deep of a hole. Then apply the Goop liberally over the crack and holes. A putty knife helps to work the goop into the cracks, but that must be done quickly while applying it. Allow it to cure for 48 hours or more at no less than 65 deg F. I repair my boats in my basement workshop so this is not a problem. The goop will flex with the hull without cracking. I have old ABS boats with this type of repair and the cracks have never spread. On the outside of the hull, opposite the cracks, I recommend applying an ABS plate instead of the kevlar and epoxy most folks use. 1/16" or 3/32" thick ABS will flex with the surrounding hull unlike the glass & epoxy patch. I know it is more work to use ABS, but it will last much longer. I developed small, interior cracks in front of the saddle in one of my playboats. I repaired it by putting 3/32" thick ABS on the outside and Marine goop over the cracks on the inside. The cracks haven't spread anymore since I did the repair. I learned this technique from a boat builder who has repaired a lot of canoes.

[yarnellboat]

Thanks everyone,

The size of the drill bit is useful info. Believing simple is best, I'll just drill, clean and dry out the cracks and fill with Goop, or JB Weld or 3M Bond. Seems like the difference between these adhesives is just costs and personal preference?

I won't apply any vinyl, epoxy or ABS patches inside or out unless it becomes evident that they're needed. If it is necessary, I'll likely go with epoxy inside. I can't foresee applying a patch on the outside due to these little stress cracks.

Sounds like the hardest/riskiest part (other than not drilling clear through my hull) might be removing the d-ring anchor. I'll avoid doing that if I can.

Hope my roommate doesn't mind a 12' blue footstool in the living room for a bit!

Cheers, P.