Getting through Ledge holes in a C1

[AJ]

I am liking the challenge of the new C1. I am trying to learn to paddle up front and limiting correction strokes from the back. I also know that I need to improve my offside strokes, part of the challenge.

The water and ledge holes are still a little big on Boulder Creek, the run that I have been trying to learn on, but the water is starting to come down. With that said, I am having a hard time with ledge holes that don't have edge seams to slip the hole and that you have to crash through. I have not had a problem in my longer open boats. They track a little better, are a little faster, more mass and length to get through holes. I am wondering if the H3:255 has enough volume for me, a 185lb paddler?

In these bigger ledge holes, I am finding that my nose wants to dig into below the foam pile and the foam pile hits me square in the chest stopping and flipping me. So either I do not have enough momentum; not leaning back enough to get the bow up, when taking the stroke at the feature; I stop paddling after taking the big stroke; the boat is a little small; or something?

I appreciate any C1 hole busting paddling tips you may have.

Thanks,

AJ

[sbroam]

Leaning back in a C-1 never worked out very well for me - lots of back enders. Reaching as far forward as possible, over the back side of the pile helps. Maybe even having the boat on edge a little, so you punch it more? Or perhaps more of a boof (which does *not* involve leaning back)?

[xmas0c1c1k1]

every spot is different, but sometimes it helps to have some angle approaching the hole and you can do a big sweep stroke to get your bow up and straighten you up.

[markzak]

I've found that I'm generally better off making sure I get a huge, mean stroke in right as I contact a ledge/hole, grabbing the foam pile or even the boil line and essentially "boofing" right through the hole.

I think the stroke in the hole is far more important than your lead-in momentum. I like to line it up take a few smaller momentum building strokes, cruise into a hole, then take a massive stroke to pull me through.

I also think stroking right into the foam pile/boil line will help rotate your torso so you slice through the feature better and of course it will give you a paddle in the water to keep you from flipping.

[ezwater]

Another reason some open boats get through is some are longer and so span the hole.

In the old days, it seemed like c-1s had the most trouble with the hole at the diagonal ledge in Bull Sluice. The open boats spanned it, the kayaks were often able to take off with more speed and partly get over it. C-boats often just blorted over and stuck.

I recall coming onto a new and unexpected dam spillway where portage options were as bad as the prospect of running. I hit the hydraulic as hard as I could in my old Hahn, the boat submarined, but I had cocked the boat left on entry and was able to drive through with my left side strokes. Hydraulic was at least as long as my boat. The next person, in an OCA, apparently didn't realise I was having the fight of my life. He just cruised on over, and he and his boat recirculated for 3 minutes before he dove and swam out. His boat was in another ten minutes before its flotation came loose and it popped out.

[OC1er]

Paddling a Mystic will also help you punch holes...

[Larry Horne]

some of that is the boat. The h3 doesn't have a ton of rocker.
A jefe, for instance, has so much rocker that it pretty much auto boofs onto the pile. Of course there's a trade off for that.
As others said, don't lean back. I usually try to boof it. I tend to do it with on side strokes, so it's important to pre-set an angle towrds my on side to compensate, throw a strong boof stroke, followed by reaching over the pile with a strong, sometimes very long, forward stroke.
If a hole has too much pile for me to boof onto, and consequences, I'll walk. If that's not an option, or if it's just harmless big water fun, It's time to "plug and pray" just dive into it