Anyone used a Japanese pull saw on minicell?

philcanoe · Post by **philcanoe** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:31 am

something like one of these
[img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... Ryoba.jpeg[/img]
Really wondering how it might do, as an undercut saw for removing a saddle?

tennOC · Post by **tennOC** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:53 am

Hey Phil, I use one all the time in my trim carpentry. My favorite has teeth on one side only which helps keep it from marring the surface when flush cutting like you suggest (teeth on the backside tend to scratch the surface). Clearance for the saw strokes may be an issue in removing a saddle, but the foam will cut like butter.

Post by **sbroam** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:21 am

If I wasn't 20 in the garage, i'd try right now. I use a cheap "tool box" cross cut saw for big straight cuts in minicell and it works great - the pull saw should cut smoother and could be great for your application. I don't like having saw teeth that close to the hull, though... I've always pulled foam up using bare hands plus one or another tool like a spatula (metal/plastic putty knife, kitchen scraper,...). The hull needs a little clean up and the foam isn't completely smooth, but I've never damaged a hull doing it. The pull saw, as flexy as it is could do the trick...

OC1er · Post by **OC1er** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:05 pm

I use one just like that as my main foam cutting tool, and they work beautifully! The cross cut side seems to do a bit better...I would think you could make a nice cut to remove the saddle, just take your time...

iRolled · Post by **iRolled** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:52 pm

I've seen them for sale at Sears and they come in numerous sizes.

I too have been eyeballing one of these for work and outfitting.

Cheeks · Post by **Cheeks** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:06 pm

I used one last weekend to cut down a saddle. It cuts very well, but still leaves the surface a bit rough. Its a very good tool.

cheajack · Post by **cheajack** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:42 pm

I have two and they work great, but not as good as a band saw.

eddyhops · Post by **eddyhops** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:39 pm

The only problems I've found with the double edge pull saw for cutting saddles free is the set of the saw, they leave a ragged edge and rough up the plastic, and you have two edges with set going against the surface (the crosscut edge and the rip edge)

What seems to cut a little slower but do less damage is a flexible flush cut saw (no set so it doesn't chew the foam or gouge the plastic)

Go ahead & get both because they are SUPER handy for alot of little quick jobs.

TonyB · Post by **TonyB** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:34 am

I took my beloved japanese saw (former scenic carpenter) to foam work when I started (just a year or two ago) outfitting my boats.
It works better then some but isnt as versitile as a steak knife and hack saw combo. the real diffrence is that its a pull saw compared to our western push saw phylosophy (ok meds kicking in goodnight)

gumpy · Post by **gumpy** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:16 pm

i prefer the flexible flush cut saw too

ian123 · Post by **ian123** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:02 pm

A plastic putty knife works pretty good.

Smurfwarrior · Post by **Smurfwarrior** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:05 pm

They sell them at Lowes / Home Deport under the "shark saw" label. I sometime use the single bladed pull saw when I can't get at the foam with my bandsaw. Works good, makes a mess.

scott curtis · Post by **scott curtis** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:12 am

poor photon

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Anyone used a Japanese pull saw on minicell?

Anyone used a Japanese pull saw on minicell?

Re: Anyone used a Japanese pull saw on minicell?