It's all in the outfit

ian123 · Post by **ian123** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:51 pm

Smurf, have you had to swim out of that l'edge yet??
I've tried putting hip-pads in my Sfly but there I can't get out without tearing the hip pads out.

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:23 pm

i bought some harmany knee pads that im going to put in a rec canoe (MR teton) I paddle it solo, seated in the front, turned backward. My question is on the position of the pads, I have some ideas but I would be interested on what the og`s have to say bout that.

You want your knees to be splayed as much as comfortably possible. With the Teton you probably won't get your knees all the way into the chines (edges) but that's okay. I'd position the pads so the extra pad length is toward the front of the boat. (You'll be using the front edge of the seat to kneel on). The reason to put the extra pad length toward the front is so you can have the option to shift your weight forward when desired (wind etc).

mrswimsalot · Post by **mrswimsalot** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:06 pm

clarion wrote:
i bought some harmany knee pads that im going to put in a rec canoe (MR teton) I paddle it solo, seated in the front, turned backward. My question is on the position of the pads, I have some ideas but I would be interested on what the og`s have to say bout that.
You want your knees to be splayed as much as comfortably possible. With the Teton you probably won't get your knees all the way into the chines (edges) but that's okay. I'd position the pads so the extra pad length is toward the front of the boat. (You'll be using the front edge of the seat to kneel on). The reason to put the extra pad length toward the front is so you can have the option to shift your weight forward when desired (wind etc).

hay thanks, thats good stuff, I should have mentioned Im 6'6" and mostly legg, youre right I wont get the pads all the way out to the chines but should they be straight in line with the boat or angled out closer to the chines like a V.

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:27 pm

should they be straight in line with the boat or angled out closer to the chines like a V.

With a tandem rigged solo like you're doing I just make them straight. There's really no reason to "V" them if you can't get your knees into the chines anyway.

If you've never put knee pads in before you may want to say so. It's easy and fun to do but there are some simple fundamentals to keep in mind.

mrswimsalot · Post by **mrswimsalot** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:01 pm

clarion wrote:
should they be straight in line with the boat or angled out closer to the chines like a V.
With a tandem rigged solo like you're doing I just make them straight. There's really no reason to "V" them if you can't get your knees into the chines anyway.

If you've never put knee pads in before you may want to say so. It's easy and fun to do but there are some simple fundamentals to keep in mind.

Im all ears, if you care to explain, I have had them in the boat just to see, and the pads came with instlation instructions, like out linning and masking the square whare the pads are to go with tape before sanding. however I was wondering if contac glue would be ok, any other tips would be great.

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:21 pm

1. Figure out placement

2. Mark out the outlines in pencil

3. I use contact cement (Dap in the red can, gel type)

4. No need to sand anything

5. Practice how you'll "roll" them into place before applying cement.

6. "roll" them by starting with a long side (less distance to get outside your lines once you do it for real.

7. Start the roll by placing the long edge on your pencil mark

8. Coat both pads with contact cement. Don't skimp.

9. Put a coat in your boat, go slightly outside your pencil lines

10. Once both coats dry, apply a second coat to your pads, the first coat will have been absorbed. The pads will have curled slightly, this is normal

11. Let the second coat dry or hit with a hair dryer to speed things along a bit.

12. I like to heat with a hair dryer before making the final placement.

13. Roll your pads into place just as you practiced. Be careful of putting too much compressive pressure on the pads. You can make them go out of shape with too much pressure and that's how they'll end up.

14. You get one shot. Once it's down, it's down.

15. Apply pressure all over with your hands and you're done.

If I missed anything I'm sure others will jump in.

mrswimsalot · Post by **mrswimsalot** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:42 pm

clarion wrote:1. Figure out placement

2. Mark out the outlines in pencil

3. I use contact cement (Dap in the red can, gel type)

4. No need to sand anything

5. Practice how you'll "roll" them into place before applying cement.

6. "roll" them by starting with a long side (less distance to get outside your lines once you do it for real.

7. Start the roll by placing the long edge on your pencil mark

8. Coat both pads with contact cement. Don't skimp.

9. Put a coat in your boat, go slightly outside your pencil lines

10. Once both coats dry, apply a second coat to your pads, the first coat will have been absorbed. The pads will have curled slightly, this is normal

11. Let the second coat dry or hit with a hair dryer to speed things along a bit.

12. I like to heat with a hair dryer before making the final placement.

13. Roll your pads into place just as you practiced. Be careful of putting too much compressive pressure on the pads. You can make them go out of shape with too much pressure and that's how they'll end up.

14. You get one shot. Once it's down, it's down.

15. Apply pressure all over with your hands and you're done.

If I missed anything I'm sure others will jump in.

thanks thats very clear now, I did some sizing in the boat and Im close to tuching the thwart as I can get comfertabley, does that sound good?

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:51 pm

I did some sizing in the boat and Im close to tuching the thwart as I can get comfertabley, does that sound good?

I guess I don't know what you mean by getting as close to the thwart as you can get. If you are kneeling on/against the edge of the stern seat (boat turned backwards) I don't see how you are close the the center thwart. I'm probably missing something here.

mrswimsalot · Post by **mrswimsalot** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:31 pm

clarion wrote:
I did some sizing in the boat and Im close to tuching the thwart as I can get comfertabley, does that sound good?

I guess I don't know what you mean by getting as close to the thwart as you can get. If you are kneeling on/against the edge of the stern seat (boat turned backwards) I don't see how you are close the the center thwart. I'm probably missing something here.

Im just really big and when I go from siting possition to kneeling Im dagn neer in the middle of the boat,
thats with me butt up off my heels.
im sorry i cant be more clear on this I just cant find the words.
going to try sking down at winterplace tonight
I ll check back tomarrow,
thanks again

clarion · Post by **clarion** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:46 pm

Ok, got it. I didn't realize how big you are. Being close to the center is where you want to be.

Smurfwarrior · Post by **Smurfwarrior** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:15 am

Ian- Yeah I have (on purpose) and didn't have any problems. I believe thats because of the way I connected the hip pads to the saddle with a 2" piece of kydex that goes the width of the interior to support the pads and keep my feet from slipped between the saddle and the pads. I had problems in my Zoom with hip pads and this has fixed the issue.

Todhunter · Post by **Todhunter** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:59 pm

Smurfwarrior wrote:Ian- Yeah I have (on purpose) and didn't have any problems. I believe thats because of the way I connected the hip pads to the saddle with a 2" piece of kydex that goes the width of the interior to support the pads and keep my feet from slipped between the saddle and the pads. I had problems in my Zoom with hip pads and this has fixed the issue.

Take a picture - I'm having trouble visualizing and can't see the kydex in your first post.

Smurfwarrior · Post by **Smurfwarrior** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:42 pm

It's thin and runs behind the hip pads and in the front of saddle. It's glued and padded making it hard to see. I copied that setup and mounted it in the Blackfly a few weeks ago. Works great to keep feet from getting stuck. I'll post a updated BF pic soon.

Larry Horne · Post by **Larry Horne** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:14 am

smurf, that thing is tighter than a frog's..well nevermind. you prolly couldnt get more than a quart of water in that thing!

I was wondering though, cuz my open boats are old school. where do you carry gear like a spare paddle, pin kit, emergency stuff. lunch

or what about overnighters? does it all go under the bags?

Larry Horne · Post by **Larry Horne** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 1:07 am

rocky, that looks good. I'm really anxious to hear how it works for you.
When i sit in my c1 i cant push my toes back at all because they;re already fully extended. it looks like you have some tall ankle blocks, so maybe that's what the difference is (or maybe I'm just old and worn out) My ankle blocks are about 1" at my shins and paper thin at my ankles.
I'm working on a rail design that has "hooks" to pull my feet against as opposed to blocks.. probably won't work but it's fun to think about.